DeWalt battery chainsaw

[ESpy]

Morning all -

I've come to the conclusion I may need a chainsaw (despite years of just using manual tools). This is not for felling, just for light duty cutting firewood/carving wood (one and the same by the time I've been at it), trimming logs to height for anvil stumps, that sort of thing. No all-day sessions, it'll likely be an hour's cutting at a time.

I use DeWalt 18v mostly (occasional Makita, but I've not many batteries for it), so that's what I was looking at - I'm sure the 54V is gutsier, I'm less sure I need the extra capacity.

Does anyone have one and if so, other than "in the shed", how do you find it?

 

[Broch]

I have a Makita 18v (actually 36v as it uses two batteries) chainsaw and use it for most of my work. I've just taken down 30cm spruce with it - that's about the limit I would suggest.

I have 4 batteries, so, 2 in use and 2 on charge - that tends to keep me going without much need to wait for charging. Down in the wood I use a small 800w generator to charge - it's much quieter than a petrol chain saw!

The batteries appear expensive (I use Waitley, they may not be quite as long-lasting as Makita but I've not managed to objectively find a difference and they are half the price) but I'm not convinced that it works out a lot more expensive than the 2-stroke I would have used in the petrol chainsaw.

I can't recommend the Makita enough; it's a very useful bit of kit, but I'm sure other makes are just as good. However, a word of warning, don't drop your safety standards - it's easy to treat these machines with less respect than petrol ones but, in my opinion, they are more dangerous because of how easy it is to just pick them up and wield them.

No, these saws are not as powerful as a petrol one but I manage about 80% of my work in the wood with one without the noise .

 

[RichardJackson]

I second the makita 36v. Brilliant, up to a certain point. When I researched it, gheg were smongst best reviewed battery ones. I know a neatly retired tree surgeon who swears by hus stihl one tho. You could buy battery adapters to use your DeWalt batteries with one perhaps?

Sent from my SM-A536B using Tapatalk

 

[ESpy]

I've got the Makita tracksaw, which is also 36V. If the Badapters will fit, that's good - otherwise I'd need to add ~£100 on to get a couple more (no spares ATM, if the tracksaw's flat then I'm not playing). The Makita dual charger seems a much more thorough piece of goods than the DeWalt chargers too.

I like the em braking systems, but that's not a substitute for PPE - what would people recommend?

 

[Broch]

Let's be honest, the PPE is only as good as your discipline to use it, and we all do a 'quick job' without the full kit at times

If I'm just logging around the house I will usually just wear gloves (Oregon) and a helmet with mesh face protection and ear defenders (Stihl - the ear defenders are not really needed for the electric saw). If I'm working in the wood, so felling, snedding, and cutting up, I also wear chainsaw trousers (not chaps) as I'm doing more bending over and working at different levels. I no longer wear chainsaw boots because I am adamant about not using my feet as 'steadies'.

I know it looks expensive, but I recommend doing the basic cross cut and maintenance Lantra course - if nothing else, you'll be a dab hand at sharpening the blade.

Apologies if this is all 'teaching my grandmother to ....."

 

[demographic]

IIRC the chainsaw strides work by clogging the chain and the saw stalls just before top dead centre.
Having constant torque, electric chainsaws can carry on a bit longer.
Worth bearing in mind.

 

[Broch]

IIRC the chainsaw strides work by clogging the chain and the saw stalls just before top dead centre.
Having constant torque, electric chainsaws can carry on a bit longer.
Worth bearing in mind.

Not my experience to be honest; they stop very quickly with any kind of 'debris'. They don't, in practice, have anything like the torque of a petrol one.

For example, I managed to get some paracord on mine and it stopped instantly.

 

[Decacraft]

I use the erbauer branded chainsaw around the house and it takes 2 of the 18v batteries. In comparison to my old petrol stihl I do prefer it due to the low noise, not having to mess with 2 stroke fuel and I find it much lighter to use and carry.

I did struggle to find replacement chains for it but picked up a few online and rotate them when they need to be sharpened. I don't find the safety features and worse than the petrol one, just need to be careful as its always on and pulling the trigger starts it up.

 

[British Red]

Out of left field I'm going to ask if mains electric saws are totally out for you? I want a battery one but mains saws are much cheaper, more powerful and don't go flat so, as well as my petrol saws I run a cheap electric saw from Screwfix. I've cut over 50 cubic metres of firewood with ours.

 

[British Red]

I like the em braking systems, but that's not a substitute for PPE - what would people recommend?

As a minimum you need trousers, helmet with eye and ear pro, and boots. You don't need fancy. Oregon is good domestic grade stuff

Trousers

https://amzn.to/401arHn

Helmet

https://amzn.to/46DE2ZQ

Boots

https://amzn.to/3QoYisj

There's lots of choices but that's the minimum that I use

 

[Stew]

As a minimum you need trousers, helmet with eye and ear pro, and boots. You don't need fancy. Oregon is good domestic grade stuff

Trousers

https://amzn.to/401arHn

Helmet

https://amzn.to/46DE2ZQ

Boots

https://amzn.to/3QoYisj

There's lots of choices but that's the minimum that I use

Helmet even if you’re cutting logs at waist height or just for felling?

 

[Broch]

Helmet even if you’re cutting logs at waist height or just for felling?

The helmet protects you against kickback as well as falling material - so I always wear a helmet using a chainsaw.

 

[British Red]

Helmet even if you’re cutting logs at waist height or just for felling?

Depends how much you like your face
On a serious note, saws can and do flick upwards because of kick back so I say helmet always.

I wear split hide gloves too - but that's more for log handling than saw safety

 

[slowworm]

One thing I like about my little Stihl battery saw is the fine chain doesn't seem to flick the bar up at all.

With a helmet and visor I find it has saved me from a branch flicking back or a small log being catapulted up.

I don't like leather gloves with a chainsaw as I find them too slippery.

 

[ESpy]

I've got a reasonable lid + visor (OK, I've got more than one... The Versaflo feels wrong here); is there any reason to go for chainsaw safety boots over my usual rigger safety boots?

Trousers or chaps I am deficient in.

As for mains vs cordless - I'm gradually changing out all my corded tools due to logistics issues on running extension leads. Including running tools 2 miles from the house...

 

[Broch]

I have a pair of Stihl chainsaw boots but I never wear them. They are not as good on the sloping, rough terrain I have to work in. It is relatively easy to work in a way that would make hitting your feet very very unlikely - however, if you feel that the low risk is not worth taking, then get some. The difference with chainsaw boots over normal safety boots is they contain a fibrous sandwiched material that clogs the chainsaw when cut and stops it; a chainsaw will just rip through the leather of normal safety boots.

 

[gra_farmer]

I have been using chainsaws since I was 10 years old (grew up on a farm). And I agree with most of what is said here.

As @British Red said, I would consider the corded electric chainsaw, unless you have the need or just have the cash to spend that is the best route.

As for safety kit:

Chainsaw trousers (I use bib and brace, as easy on and off and warmer in the winter)

Chainsaw gloves (a must in my book, for all work above the groin area)

Chainsaw saw jacket with blocking material (only needed if working at chest height, I used to use chain mail bib and that was brilliant as the jackets with blocking material has been available only over the last decade)

Helmet (for all the reasons stated in the other posts)

Chainsaw boots (if you are standing on brush or canopy and sectioning, then yes, otherwise on even stable ground then yes safety boots are okay)


During lock down, I had the same thoughts as you, going battery, but the cost was limiting, so as I still needed to clear scrub, I bought a Bosch 18v reciprocating saw, and it was brilliant. It has not replaced my chainsaw, buy it has been a safety game changer for me.

 

[British Red]

is there any reason to go for chainsaw safety boots over my usual rigger safety boots?

If bucking up firewood, the saw is always moving downwards. Cut through an unexpected rotten log and it plunges quickly. You shouldn't be standing in line with the blade but it only takes once.

 

[Dave Budd]

I use a makita cordless (actually its a Dolmar, which is made by Makita but cheaper branding and takes the same batteries). A pair of 5ahr batteries is enough to tank down and dismantle a 12" diameter ash tree. Over the last few years it's become my preferred saw for coppicing and snedding, having felled the tree with a bigger petrol saw usually

I like the fast stopping of the chain when you let go of the trigger (almost instant) and the quietness of it.

I also have a dewalt tool that uses an adaptor to allow me to use my makita batteries. Tomorrow, if I remember, I'll check to see if they all fit together on the chainsaw One thing I have noticed with the adaptor (and it is probably just bad luck) is that if I leave the battery attached to the tool with it when not in use, the battery gets drained. So if you use them make sure to disconnect the batteries when you are finished with the saw.

 

[Broch]

I use a makita cordless (actually its a Dolmar, which is made by Makita but cheaper branding and takes the same batteries).

Apparently, Makita bought out Dolmar in 1991! - they kept the Dolmar name until recently because they were better known in the ICE powered tool market. They are no longer manufacturing using the Dolmar name as far as I can make out.