Designing a new jacket

[big_swede]

I've had a yearning for a new jacket for quite some time now. As I have grown weary of the over-the-head-motion with my anoraks, and I gave away a fjällräven jacket as it lacked the pop off hood and was to short in length, and also as the military types of smocks didn't fit my bill, I have started looking at making my own. I thought it would be a good idea to have some feedback from you guys.

Alright, so what is it I'm looking for in this grail of a jacket? My specification of features is as follows:

• 65/35 Polycotton in tight light poplin weave. Aka, G1000. It is fairly windproof, can be water proofish, fast drying, mosquito proof, light, hard wearing and has a nice feel to it. It feels like fabric, not plastic. It also has very good vapour transport capabilities.
• No pockets in the lower half of the torso. I have yet to try on a smock type of jackets whos pockets doesn't interfere with a rucksack waistbelt! And they're mainly in the way, not particularly practical when fully loaded. Plainly don't like them. And as a side note, they really add up to the military image.
• Largish arm pockets. Well, these are actually practical, never in the way of the pack and the upper arm is fairly still when walking, not so much verical movement going on. I want d-rings in these.
• Large breast pockets. Well, these could be in the way of the packs shoulder straps. These will have to be well laid out. Preferably these would take a small pair of binos or any item of the same size. D-rings in these too.
• Napoleon type breast pockets. Mesh lined. Can be used for ventilation too.
• Bellowed arms. Like on the olde M65 jacket. I think I like this, or the arms will have to be raglan cut.
• Preshaped arms and reinforced elbows. For comfort.
• A really good hood. Copper thread peak, real wind funnel with velcro for fur ruff. Three points of adjustments, large enough to accomedate a hat underneath. And it has to cover the mouth and nose if needed. In the sketch it is more or less copied from the Norrona Arktis line of jackets. It is the best hood I have encountered.
• Cuffs with heavy duty velcro. Large enough to roll up the sleeve.
• Pouchers pocket in the rear, with wide mesh lining. handy pocket, should fit a sitting pad.
• Long sleeves, at least to the knuckles.
• Long in length.
• Width adjustments in both waist and in the lower hem.

This is my first sketch:

So what do I plan to use the jacket for? Well, this would be my main jacket during spring, autumn and winter. I'm the kind of guy who always brings a set of light weight rain gear instead of shell jackets, the sweaty kind of guy in other words. I'm also really weight concscious so the military jackets are way too heavy, and I frankly don't need anything labeled as bomb proof, or squaddie proof. I also like to distance my self from any military organisations. I also prefer a high content of synthetic fibers, because that's basically what makes the polycotton/nyco fabrics good. Less drying time, better abrasion resistance etc. And at a fraction of the cost of the only really good cotton fabric, ventile.

Areas of use will be extended hiking trips both on foot and skis. And the general mucking about in the woods.

Any input is very welcome, provided you have read the post in its entirety, and at least tried to understand my point of view.

cheers!

 

[Man of Tanith]

That looks like it could be a very very good jacket. i particularly like the idea of large useable arm pockets.
whilst i've nothing to add to the design i would love to see this when its an actual rather than a sketch

 

[Shewie]

Yep, I'd buy it

I like it, good point about the lower pockets and access with a pack.I think I'd maybe incorporate a couple of hand warmer pockets between the chest and waist band, nothing much just a couple of micro fleece slant cuts. Think the kind of place you'd shove your hands when you've got your PFD on Ollie.

Not sure I'd like the sleeve pockets but that's just my personal view, I'm not one for having stuff in pockets anyway.

Maybe some inner cuffs would be nice too, with thumb loops

 

[johnboy]

Hi,

Somewhat like Shewie I'm not a fan of the arm pockets..

I could imagine if the were full of kit they'd be a PITA when putting on a pack and they get caught up on stuff.

I know when I had a FFD in a SAS Smock FFD pocket on the Arm it was always seemingly getting caught on stuff.

I'd agree about Patch or bulbous pockets on the lower part of the jacket. they do get in the way and are a tad difficult to get to.

I found bulbous pockets again SAS smock style not the best when wearing a rucksack either.

I think your fabric idea is a good choice.

HTH

 

[Ogri the trog]

Looking good Big Swede,
It might not be something I'd buy, but I might steal some of your ideas!
Can I ask why you mention velcro for the cuffs and not a button and flap/tab? For me, velcro wears out very fast and becomes a magnet for all manner of cr*p and corruption, let alone the noise of tearing it to adjust it.
How often will you be wearing a pack while having the jacket on? I ask because, you are not obliged to fill any lower pockets, but if they are there to use when you are not wearing your pack, it could add some flexibility to your design.
Not a fan of big arm pockets either, as you are introducing a seam into an otherwise "proofed" area. With buttons in that area, I'd be constantly catching them on things, risking a tear or worse - sending you tumbling with a pack on your back.
If I've read your post right, I might think about adding a pocket to your pack straps to carry any necessaries when wearing your pack - you can then redistribute those items into normal pockects in the jacket when you remove the pack. The arm pockets might be difficult to access when wearing your pack so things like FAK and trail snacks could end up just out of reach.
I'm going to steal the "Napoleon pocket" idea though - to add to my home-made ventile, over the head, smock. One thing I did design in was a pouch pocket on the front above belt height and I have enough material below the belt to add hand warmer pockets. I also made a hood that rolls into a high collar as loose hoods "do my crust" when bending over to reach things at ground level, flopping on to the back of my head.
I like the idea of your poachers pocket too, I put wide flaps inside my smock so that they can fold out to become a sit flap at the back and a lap cover/rain shield at the front - but I'm thinking of modifying it to become more of an on-board back pocket like your design.

Mine is very much an "on-going project" rather than a finished article, I keep thinking of things to add or change design of various bits.

Good luck with it, I'd like to see how it turns out.

ATB

Ogri the trog

 

[John Fenna]

A nice looking design!
I too got into designing my own kit as I could not find what I wanted ...and ended up with a diploma in design and working for Craghoppers and Snowdon Clothing (this is many years ago now) - so beware - design work is addictive!
Personally I like lower pockets and dislike arm pockets - unless they are very low profile and although I like buttons on most things velcro is better for cuffs IMHO due to snag problems.
I like your choice of fabric, but Ventile is still my favourite...when I can afford it!
I look forward to seeing your finished garment!

 

[DavidJT]

Looks nice.
Maybe you could have two openings to the poachers pocket just front of left and right hips, and by using a double layer all the way around the torso below the drawstring, you would have hand warmer pockets. Some cycling jackets are designed like this. Internal front pockets could be hand once the rucksack is off?
Look forward to seeing the finished result.

 

[big_swede]

Hi again, thanks for all the input. This is not my first design project, I have sewn jackets, gauntlets and some other stuff before. But this is the first time I actually design before I start buying fabrics and cutting up stuff!

Some comments on your valuable input. I really like cyclists jackets, I do a fair bit of road biking myself although I realised I'm more of a fighter then a cyclist so I went back to martial sports from competetive biking. I still like recreational rides, especially now in the early fall. I had been thinking about back pockets, like on jerseys but concluded that they would mostly be in the way. Hence the pouchers pocket. The double entry is a good idea.

Concerning hand warmer pockets, I like the idea in theory. But my experience from a cheap wax jacket is that it lets in bitter cold winds. I would not like this if I'm skiing in hard wind on the tundra (which I do, at least twice a year). So either I have to design some advanced opening which blocks winds but not hands, or I'll have to exclude that feature.

All designs like this are a constant compromise between features and simplicity. Simplicity makes any item more versatile and less things that will break. Features makes the item more useful in specific situations.

You are probably right that the buttons on the arm pockets are prone to snagging. I have a ACU shirt, that's from where I got the idea. They have velcro on the flaps and a small pull-tab. It works very well, I haven't caught it with my shoulder straps yet. The shirt also features slanted breast pockets which haven't been a problem to reach when wearing a pack. However, the slanted design limits the volume of the pockets, and my fabulous napoleon pockets will be a bit akward to place.

All seams will be (don't know the english term) folded or so to speak, to make them more windproof. I might even tape the seams on the armpockets.

I'm gonna redraw the design and see what you think. Next step will be to make some sort of pattern. If there is any interest I'll see if I can make it digital in some way.

 

[big_swede]

Hi,

Somewhat like Shewie I'm not a fan of the arm pockets..

I could imagine if the were full of kit they'd be a PITA when putting on a pack and they get caught up on stuff.

I know when I had a FFD in a SAS Smock FFD pocket on the Arm it was always seemingly getting caught on stuff.

I'd agree about Patch or bulbous pockets on the lower part of the jacket. they do get in the way and are a tad difficult to get to.

I found bulbous pockets again SAS smock style not the best when wearing a rucksack either.

I think your fabric idea is a good choice.

HTH

What is a FFD? Field dressing?

 

[Shewie]

Hi again, thanks for all the input. This is not my first design project, I have sewn jackets, gauntlets and some other stuff before. But this is the first time I actually design before I start buying fabrics and cutting up stuff!

Some comments on your valuable input. I really like cyclists jackets, I do a fair bit of road biking myself although I realised I'm more of a fighter then a cyclist so I went back to martial sports from competetive biking. I still like recreational rides, especially now in the early fall. I had been thinking about back pockets, like on jerseys but concluded that they would mostly be in the way. Hence the pouchers pocket. The double entry is a good idea.

Concerning hand warmer pockets, I like the idea in theory. But my experience from a cheap wax jacket is that it lets in bitter cold winds. I would not like this if I'm skiing in hard wind on the tundra (which I do, at least twice a year). So either I have to design some advanced opening which blocks winds but not hands, or I'll have to exclude that feature.

All designs like this are a constant compromise between features and simplicity. Simplicity makes any item more versatile and less things that will break. Features makes the item more useful in specific situations.

You are probably right that the buttons on the arm pockets are prone to snagging. I have a ACU shirt, that's from where I got the idea. They have velcro on the flaps and a small pull-tab. It works very well, I haven't caught it with my shoulder straps yet. The shirt also features slanted breast pockets which haven't been a problem to reach when wearing a pack. However, the slanted design limits the volume of the pockets, and my fabulous napoleon pockets will be a bit akward to place.

All seams will be (don't know the english term) folded or so to speak, to make them more windproof. I might even tape the seams on the armpockets.

I'm gonna redraw the design and see what you think. Next step will be to make some sort of pattern. If there is any interest I'll see if I can make it digital in some way.

Watching this one with interest, looking forward to seeing it progress

 

[The Cumbrian]

Re the arm Pockets Olle, I like them on my ACU jacket and shirt when I'm walking, but if you have anything but the lightest things in them when your using your arms ( eg skiing or scrambling ) the quickly become a PITA. A patch pocket on the arm with a D ring inside would be great for a key and some emergency cash or a compass though.
One of the best ventilation / pocket ideas that I've seen is on a Patagonia waterproof that I bought for my wife. It has vertical, double zippered zips on the side seam that begin about 10cm below the armpit and end about 15cm from the hem. They are backed by mesh and provide excellent ventilation, as well as providing an adjustable height handwarmer pocket, and somewhere to put light items like gloves.

Cheers, Michael.

 

[Barn Owl]

Aye,
FFD = First Field Dressing.

 

[big_swede]

Re the arm Pockets Olle, I like them on my ACU jacket and shirt when I'm walking, but if you have anything but the lightest things in them when your using your arms ( eg skiing or scrambling ) the quickly become a PITA. A patch pocket on the arm with a D ring inside would be great for a key and some emergency cash or a compass though.
One of the best ventilation / pocket ideas that I've seen is on a Patagonia waterproof that I bought for my wife. It has vertical, double zippered zips on the side seam that begin about 10cm below the armpit and end about 15cm from the hem. They are backed by mesh and provide excellent ventilation, as well as providing an adjustable height handwarmer pocket, and somewhere to put light items like gloves.

Cheers, Michael.

Thanks for the input. I got the ACU shirt after I saw yours! A quick fix for the PITA when skiing or scrambling is of course to empty them. I think I'd rather have the option I think. But then again, that would also be the case for most unnecessary features. Hmmm.

The side seam ventilation seems like a good idea. My experience is that I seldom use ventilation. Or sometimes I try to use them, and find myself constantly fiddling with the zips. I will see how it looks in a drawing.

I have another idea I saw on a jacket from Jack Wolfskin, which I german buddy (why is that brand so popular with germans?) used a lot on Spitsbergen. It featured inner mesh pockets with elasticated tops, on the inside of the half of the torso. He used them to dry out socks and inner gloves in cold weather. Although, they would of course be very hard to reach with a pack on.

 

[The Cumbrian]

The side seam ventilation seems like a good idea. My experience is that I seldom use ventilation. Or sometimes I try to use them, and find myself constantly fiddling with the zips. I will see how it looks in a drawing.

I thought it was a gimmick until I got my first jacket with pockets that doubled as vents, and I was so impressed that I try not to buy jackets these days without ventilation. The beauty of the Patagonia system is that you have the ventilation option and simple pockets, without any external bulk or clutter.
If you're designing and making your own jacket though, and decide to fit lower pockets, just position them out of the way of your hipbelt.

Cheers, Michael.

 

[big_swede]

I thought it was a gimmick until I got my first jacket with pockets that doubled as vents, and I was so impressed that I try not to buy jackets these days without ventilation. The beauty of the Patagonia system is that you have the ventilation option and simple pockets, without any external bulk or clutter.
If you're designing and making your own jacket though, and decide to fit lower pockets, just position them out of the way of your hipbelt.

Cheers, Michael.

The jacket would have to very long to accomodate pockets that doesn't interfer with the belt.

I agree that the ventilation zips you recommend are a good idea. It would be much more clutter and complexity if they go into the armpits. It still adds a lot though. But I will see what I can make out of it. The greatest limit is my capability with the sewing machine.

 

[big_swede]

What is the general consensus on mesh linings? Good, unnecessary or a typical fail point?

 

[Dougster]

I would remove the arm pockets but would like drop pockets at the bottom - for cartridges, or bits at camp, line the back with flee for warmth and just emtpy them to use a pack.

Other than that I really like it.

 

[The Cumbrian]

What is the general consensus on mesh linings? Good, unnecessary or a typical fail point?

My wife's had her Patagonia jacket for 3 or 4 years now, and she thinks nothing of putting her keys, bottles, kid's toys etc in the pockets, and the mesh hasn't worn out yet. If you only use them for soft things like gloves ( you'll know more than most how fast they'll freeze if you put them down in the winter ), then the mesh will last as long as the outer material.
Send me a text to remind me, and I'll take a pic of the zip detail this weekend. It might just remind me to post those shoes too...

Cheers, Michael.

 

[big_swede]

My wife's had her Patagonia jacket for 3 or 4 years now, and she thinks nothing of putting her keys, bottles, kid's toys etc in the pockets, and the mesh hasn't worn out yet. If you only use them for soft things like gloves ( you'll know more than most how fast they'll freeze if you put them down in the winter ), then the mesh will last as long as the outer material.
Send me a text to remind me, and I'll take a pic of the zip detail this weekend. It might just remind me to post those shoes too...

Cheers, Michael.

I have changed cell phone recently, and your number wasn't on the SIM. Send me a message again! Same number.

 

[jimcam]

I just think that basic outlay looks great.Jim.(Night Owl).