Chainsaw advice?

[resnikov]

Looking at getting a chainsaw as we are getting a wood burning stove in the house and I want to be able to process my own logs.

I know I need all the PPE bits but what I don't have a clue on is what sort of chainsaw to get. Petrol, Elec or battery? Big or Small, Brand?

Is it worth going on a course to be safe with one?

 

[British Red]

Very much yes to the course - not only for safety but also technique and maintenance

Brand - Husqvarna or Stihl really the only UK brands with a decent after sales network and parts availability that I know

I have electric and petrol. Both work and work well in their place (for example I can run the electric safely in the barn in the rain when cutting firewood). If I was only going to have one, it would be petrol.

 

[MartiniDave]

I was in much the same position as you Resnikov, I ended up getting a Stihl 260 about 8 years ago and have found it to be just the job. It's a good idea to have a couple of spare spark plugs and a chain to hand just for convenience.

With regard to the PPE, it's worth spending enough on the trousers to get something reasonably comfortable, mine are a sort of chap arrangement and they're prone to "heading south" while I'm working.

Dave

 

[ozzy1977]

Wait until you do a course, any decently run one will have a selection to use. When I did mine we had Stihl, Johnsered, Dolmar and Husqvara I broke every husky I tried but got on well with Stihl, others were the other way around, to this day all mine are Stihl.

 

[resnikov]

Just been looking at some course and it seems most want you to have a chainsaw already which seems a little crazy to me. Will keep looking.
Cheers for the advice so far.

 

[welchyd1]

I have a makita petrol saw which I am pretty pleased with. It doesn't get used everyday though. If I was going to use it everyday I would certainly get a stihl.

 

[resnikov]

Just look at both NTPC and Lantra courses. They both seem to cover the same thing but the Lantra seems cheaper. These were both being offered by Askham Bryan College.

Any opinions on either courses?

Lantra Awards Chainsaw Maintenance & Cross-cutting
City & Guilds NPTC Chainsaw Maintenance& Cross-cutting
Lantra Awards Basic Cross-cut/ fell trees up to 200mm
City & Guilds NPTC Cross-cut & Fell

 

[British Red]

How much are they to do mateI may be interested as there is nowhere round here that does them

 

[resnikov]

Lantra Awards Chainsaw Maintenance & Cross-cutting £295
City & Guilds NPTC Chainsaw Maintenance& Cross-cutting £395
Lantra Awards Basic Cross-cut/ fell trees up to 200mm £435
City & Guilds NPTC Cross-cut & Fell £795

 

[Tony]

I think one good idea is to go for as small as you can that fits your needs, i've got a few chainsaws and because I don't use them that often any more the big one feels big and heavy, if you're processing firewoods from smaller trees (i don't mean small as in 4" but 12-24") then you can get away with a 12-14" saw A big saw is great for some stuff but most of us don't need 18"+ powerful saws. You'll also probably end up getting another one if you do a lot of cutting, a big one and smaller one.

 

[Purgatorio]

10 years ago a got the same question after buying a woodstove. The advice i got then was to buy a
Petrol saw because often you can get some cheap wood, out in the field. Buy a saw with a bit more power than a pro would use for the same work, because your more twisting etc. Get some one to train you, and learn the dangers of weight, tension, leaning, kick back etc. Ask a pro what the nicest ear/eyes/head body protection is that is also good to work for a longer time in, in the different seasons. Some are so thick and warm. Using the saw is one thing but half the time you will be hauling logs. Learn to maintain the saw in the flied. Learn to sharpen the chain....you wil be doing this a lot! Use Aspen fuel, which does not go bad so quick and is a bit less unhealthy than regular fuel. Get Aspen's biodegradable oil, when working in the field. It more biofriendly.

I started and learned with a Husqvarna 272 XPT a 72cc powerhouse with a short 11" blade. Heavy but it enforces me not to do stupid things, standing proper, and not using it above waistlevel. Now i use it mainly with a 26" blade. And got a Stihl 200T for all the small work.
I bought my saws second hand from a shop that does not only sell saws but does all maintenance for county greenworkers and companies. They often have trade in machines. Are the better and more pro types, all the knowlegde and spare parts.




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[British Red]

I will disagree with Tony a little bit here (sorry Tone ). I agree on get a shorter bar - 12-14" is ample. I would say though get a larger engined saw if possible. In my opinion my larger saw is much less stressful to use as it just tears through wood - and I'm not working the engine so hard

 

[ozzy1977]

My favourite saw is my Stihl 026, normally runs a 13" bar but will happily take up to 30" so for me one size fits all, I do have other saws though that don't get used.

 

[didicoy]

Avoid cheap stihl or Husqvarna saws sold new on ebay. Many are counterfeit machines. Only problem is once these saws have been used in the field for a short time, they could come across as a genuine saw. I did this course, City & Guilds NPTC Cross-cut & Fell in 1995 glad I did as some employers (Forestry Commission)won't except the Lantra certifications.

 

[ozzy1977]

Stihl saws cant be bought new online, so if you se any for sale walk away from them as they will be fake or un authorised so warranty will be void

 

[Tony]

I will disagree with Tony a little bit here (sorry Tone ). I agree on get a shorter bar - 12-14" is ample. I would say though get a larger engined saw if possible. In my opinion my larger saw is much less stressful to use as it just tears through wood - and I'm not working the engine so hard

What the Hell...... No problem Red, I agree with you even in light of what I said I suppose i just go for the smaller saw more often than not now, if i only had one saw it would probably be my big one, but you should always have more then one The stihl (I think a 181) does nearly everything we need now, and most of the firewood at the Moot.

 

[British Red]

Thats the thing - you really need more than one - I taught a neighbour recently to do his own firewood - when I said about more than one saw he was surprised - till I asked him how many hammers he had From sledge to claw to pin - well I said, saws are like that - I think the light bulb went on then - he certainly gets the utility of a pole chainsaw now having seen me clear some overhanging branches.

 

[stuey]

For firewood processing you can manage fine with one saw.
Make it a petrol one if money allows then you process the timber away from an electric point.

Training wise... Unless you plan to fell trees and head down the expensive road of insurance to do so, Maintenance and Crosscutting is all you need for processing firewood. In reality you don't need training at all for your personal use at home but to be professionally trained is clearly the very best use of any spare cash and will ensure you are an excellent user and maintainer of chainsaws. You may eben save the money you spend on training in the long term as you will be able to repair and properly sharpen your saw with the knowledge you gain. This will lengthen its life.

If money allows go for Stihl or Husqvarna and go for a beefy engine. 12-18inch bar. Try to go for a semi pro or pro version as the domestic ones tend to be nasty plastic these days in places that they shouldn't be nasty plastic. Yes a petrol saw can be heavy but if you're processing firewood you will soon develop the muscles to match and a heavy saw will be gravity assisted through the timber anyway.

PPE. Chainsaw protective trousers or chaps, chainsaw protective boots and a bash hat with visor and ear protection. HSE dictactes gloves which you will need should you go to be trained and assessed. In reality they are of little use as the protective material is in the rear of the left hand and they were designed and specified before the days of the front hand guard. The most beneficial element to them these days is to keep the hands warm which helps to prevent HAVS or white finger.

A good saw horse (wooden ones are best) either folding or one you have made is a great benefit and encourages safe practice. Metal ones may last longer but can be hard on chains if operator error in saw handling is a potential issue.

2 stroke oil and fuel when mixed degrades rapidly (1 -2 weeks) which can result in engine damage and failure. Stihl long life 2 stroke oil lasts much longer when mixed. Its why the repair shops are full of knackered saws and hedge trimmer in the spring... Folks get the machines out and use mixed fuel from last year.
Aspen is nicer to use but not essential.
Unless you plan to use your saw every couple of weeks through the year avoid bio or vegetable based chain oil.... It can set hard like gluey resin in parts of the saw exposed to oxygen and can clog oil ways if left unused for a while. It is a pain to clean off and un clog. Mineral chain oil doesn't go hard, is cheaper but is not as nice to the environment or you.

PM me if you want to chat anything through on the phone etc.. I've used saws professionally for around 18 years now and have been processing firewood for around 20 years.

Be safe and have fun



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[persistent king]

I recently got this http://www.forestandarb.com/Husqvarna_135_Chainsaw.html
recomended by a member on here, cracking piece of kit and starts first time , every time
I've also just purchased one of these aswell http://www.diy.com/nav/fix/power-to...MM-Compound-Mitre-Saw-10957623?skuId=11448327 as my friend is a builder and keeps supplying me with lengths of 3x2 and a chop saw is easier to cut these than a chain saw

 

[colly]

when i was looking for training for processing i couldn't find any except the professional which was ott for me.
so i asked friends who use them pro. and did as much reading as i could.
i bought a Stilh 181cbe.
kickback was what a kept hearing was the thing to be most concerned about but because of the version i bought i have never had it kick not even when trying to to see what it was like.
it also has an easy start which is good as it gets unused for a couple of months.
i've now gone on to taking down a few smallish trees and cutting up a lot of wood. it does everything i need.
only thing the ergostart (the part which spins when you pull the starter rope) has worn sooner than expected and now only works on the last 4" of the pull, still starts but needs replacing.