can someone explain the difference in handle materials?

[Man of Tanith]

Evening all
todays question/request
can one (or more) of you good folk explain to me the difference in knife handle materials?
i understand there is the aesthetic side of things but what difference does it have between wood, micarta,plastic(ala mora),smoin so oth antler, ''natural'' antler etc?
i am guessing it is dependent on the grip it gives in different weather conditions?
there is a reason behind this question other than the info itself
cheers
Sam

 

[Highbinder]

Micarta is very resilient to heat and cold and salt, and doesn't expand when wet like wood. Because it's so stable it makes a good handle.

Wood AFAIU is quite 'grippy' when wet.

Beyond that I have no idea, still very much the noob when it comes to blades.

 

[Man of Tanith]

Beyond that I have no idea, still very much the noob when it comes to blades.

this is the problem i am faciing at the moment i have it in mind to purchase a handmade blade but want to know more about the handle materials before i spend a fair whack of cash and run the risk of upsetting lady of tanith

 

[Stew]

Sam, it mainly comes down to aesthetics. What do you like to look at?

After that, durability. A piece of micarta/G10 will be more resilient than some woods as it won't absorb moisture, swell and crack. You can get wood that has had plasticising agents pulled through it that will resist the weather the same as micarta but it's more expensive. There are some very hard woods out there which would cause me little concern over tolerating bad weather. Lignum Vitae, Kingwood, Cocobolo, Desert ironwood - there's plenty more.

Grip of course is a consideration. Canvas micarta can be left with a slightly rougher finish that will give a better grip in wet conditions (rain, blood, etc) . Antler can have the bark left on and I'm sure that does similar. You need to be careful that any roughness doesn't cause hot spots and discomfort when using it though. If you get the handle design right, a slippery handle will be less of a concern.

 

[JonathanD]

If you get stabilised wood or antler, it will endure more and prevent warping and shrinking etc. That is the best natural alternative to micarta, CF and other man made materials. Aesthetics of natural materials win over the man made stuff by a mile, I can't get excited over micarta or G10, but carbon fibre has a beautiful pattern. The pleasure that the natural random grain of woods and bone/antler is something that you will appreciate for years when using your knife, man made stuff doesn't have the same effect, and you won't get that extra visual pleasure when handling you knife, so becomes less personal.

My favourite knife is my antler handled one. It didn't come stabilised but I did that myself with a heat pad and some Danish oil. It will last as long as micarta and now has the same durable properties. The options available to you are huge. If you want an all round bushcraft knife that you will be using for years and you want some personality injected into it, then look at natural but durable materials. If you just want a durable user, and it's just an inanimate object or tool to you, then go for a man made material.

 

[addo]

Im sure if you dont leave it out in the rain for long periods or lose it and find it weeks later, it makes no difference what its made of. I like good quality wood, soaked in oil, cured and waxed. Had no problems so far, and it looks and feels nice. No nasties either, easyer to work and I get it for free up the woods

 

[Man of Tanith]

thanks for the advice and clarification on that guys.
i'll think on that before i pay out.

 

[JonathanD]

Im sure if you dont leave it out in the rain for long periods or lose it and find it weeks later, it makes no difference what its made of. I like good quality wood, soaked in oil, cured and waxed. Had no problems so far, and it looks and feels nice. No nasties either, easyer to work and I get it for free up the woods

It actually does and to a massive degree. Even using your knife in Summer and putting it down for a couple of minutes can cause the sun to heat the blade/knife up and warp and shrink the scales dramatically, even dense antler. Using it in damp conditions or light rain can do the same thing as the sheath holds in the moisture and will cause swelling and warping of the scales. You'd be surprised at the amount of complaints top knife makers get from people who have movement in their scales from even the mildest of conditions, which is why they prefer working in micarta or stabilised materials. The antler on my bushy is very dense and thick, after just a days light use in February ealier this year, and the difference between using it in the outdoor cold and sheathing it under my fleece next to my body caused the scales to lift at the butt end on one side. Since then I gave it the Danish oil treatment and it has prevented any further movement. It just goes to show how much natural materials can move given the smallest environmental change.

 

[addo]

I must be lucky then Jonathan because Ive not had this happen. Mind you puukkos are different in that they cant lift, and I tend to make and use these more. Strong epoxy, compressed, 12 hrs in oil, cured for two days and waxed regularly seems to be fine for me.
Im not likely to go to the arctic again for a while, if I did I would take and use what they do. I carve all the time on the back yard which is in full sun and leave the knife on the bench between sessions, again no issues. Not tryed a knife out in jungles and the like so I cant comment there, mind Im not likely to go there soon either.

Im not trying to be awkward, just must be lucky I suppose

 

[JonathanD]

I must be lucky then Jonathan because Ive not had this happen. Mind you puukkos are different in that they cant lift, and I tend to make and use these more. Strong epoxy, compressed, 12 hrs in oil, cured for two days and waxed regularly seems to be fine for me.
Im not likely to go to the arctic again for a while, if I did I would take and use what they do. I carve all the time on the back yard which is in full sun and leave the knife on the bench between sessions, again no issues. Not tryed a knife out in jungles and the like so I cant comment there, mind Im not likely to go there soon either.

Im not trying to be awkward, just must be lucky I suppose

Yeah Puukkos don't have the same problem as full tangs with double slabs as the materials are much smaller and are less prone to warping and movement. Sounds like you do a very good job of stabilising yours as well with the oil treatment, it's no wonder none of your knives exhibit problems.