can some one point me in the right direction

[CumbrianLad]

hello and sorry to bother you but i was just wondering can anyone point me in the right direction to get some second hand water stones as money is tight at the moment with my car breaking down but i have saved a few old bushcraft knives that i would like to try to nurse back to health just i have no idea what area or site to look

thanks again for taking your time to read this

cumbrianlad

 

[crosslandkelly]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3000-1000...hetstone-Polishin-Oilstone-Grit-/231556070438

These are as cheap as I've seen. Why not try gluing wet and dry paper to a piece of 18mm ply, there you have an instant wet stone.

 

[MartiniDave]

You can often pick up old oil stones at carboot sales for a pound or so. A little messier to use than water stones, but they will last far longer. I use cheap baby oil on mine, it's cleaner than 3 in 1 or similar.

Dave

 

[spader]

I got a Falkniven DC4 stone years ago, and it does everything i need in sharpening. It comes in nice case and very light, small and thin, so it fits into a wallet or shirt pocket. It turns butter knife into hair popping razor with a liitle bit of elbow grease

It can be used wet or dry. It was about a tenner from Amazon.

 

[Tantalus]

Got to agree here with the others.

If you have your heart set on quality waterstones, be prepared to fork out.

In the meantime they are not the only way to sharpen. Get creative or use what you already have.

[video=youtube;qM3aFmFj0fE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qM3aFmFj0fE[/video]

 

[robevs73]

Wet and dry on a board gets my vote.

 

[Will_]

Because I wanted to see how they work, I've just started using smooth flat stones from nearby stream beds. (YouTube has some good videos on it...)
It takes a bit of searching for the right stone, but they work amazingly well, and you can even feel which ones will be best for rough work, all the way up to the ones that will put a razor edge back on a knife.
I've just restored a Hultafors Heavy Duty (which I'd treated unbelievably badly in my tool box) to a blade that glides through paper.
I have a set of 4 fairly expensive waterstones. I could have saved myself a lot of money if I'd practiced a bit with river stones years ago!

(I also have a DC4 which goes everywhere with me if I'm carrying a knife. I would still buy the DC4 as it goes so nicely in a wilderness survival kit, but I find the river stones do as good a job.)

 

[CumbrianLad]

Hi all sorry for the late reply and thank you very much indeed some great info and advice here much obliged

 

[CumbrianLad]

hello all and thank you very much for all the great info and help i appreciate this alot

 

[CumbrianLad]

Hey buddy thought i would update you i was up the river yesterday with the dog and found some great stones and you where right im slowly getting the knives back to life thanks to you and everyone else

All so guys i have another question one off the knives has some bad rust and i have seen many videos off people using coca cola to remove rust will that be OK to use on a knife

 

[Shinken]

As others have said, wet and dry glued to something flat. They will actually remove metal faster than the waterstone at the same grit, imo.

 

[Will_]

Hey buddy thought i would update you i was up the river yesterday with the dog and found some great stones and you where right im slowly getting the knives back to life thanks to you and everyone else

All so guys i have another question one off the knives has some bad rust and i have seen many videos off people using coca cola to remove rust will that be OK to use on a knife

Good man. I just scrub rusty knives with a Brillo pad and washing up liquid. It does leave marks and maybe a stain where the rust was, but that doesn't bother me at all. I have no idea about your experience in all this, (and I'm no expert, especially compared with some people on this forum) but do you know how to force a patina to help prevent future rust?

 

[CumbrianLad]

Good man. I just scrub rusty knives with a Brillo pad and washing up liquid. It does leave marks and maybe a stain where the rust was, but that doesn't bother me at all. I have no idea about your experience in all this, (and I'm no expert, especially compared with some people on this forum) but do you know how to force a patina to help prevent future rust?

I think ill try that way a few scratches and marks do not bother me either and no but you have me very intrigued as to how to prevent future rust

 

[Will_]

I think ill try that way a few scratches and marks do not bother me either and no but you have me very intrigued as to how to prevent future rust

You should Google it (there are loads of ways to do this) but I just clean the knife (so no rust, no dirt, no oil or grease) (clean, then wipe it down with some alcohol on a rag to make sure there is no grease left) then I really thinly rub on mustard or brown sauce (there are a hundred things you could use). I rub in the same direction in long lines (some people like to make patterns, some just rub it on and couldn't care less how it looks). Then after an hour or so I wipe it off, then repeat again.
Rub it on thinly because it works better and quicker I think. (I think this is because the air needs to get in on the action.)
It helps prevent rust though you'll probably still want to rub some oil on the blade too.
I think it looks great too. Here are my ESEE knives with the coating removed and a mustard patina added: http://truesurvivor.uk/data/documents/ESEE-Colours-of-Day-compressed.jpg

 

[CumbrianLad]

You should Google it (there are loads of ways to do this) but I just clean the knife (so no rust, no dirt, no oil or grease) (clean, then wipe it down with some alcohol on a rag to make sure there is no grease left) then I really thinly rub on mustard or brown sauce (there are a hundred things you could use). I rub in the same direction in long lines (some people like to make patterns, some just rub it on and couldn't care less how it looks). Then after an hour or so I wipe it off, then repeat again.
Rub it on thinly because it works better and quicker I think. (I think this is because the air needs to get in on the action.)
It helps prevent rust though you'll probably still want to rub some oil on the blade too.
I think it looks great too. Here are my ESEE knives with the coating removed and a mustard patina added: http://truesurvivor.uk/data/documents/ESEE-Colours-of-Day-compressed.jpg

Brilliant that's my watching for tonight sorted thank you very much will for all your guidance and help i hope some day i can return the favour but i highly doubt that day will come my friend

Cant wait to rub some mustard on my knife's haha

 

[C_Claycomb]

120 Grit premium bonded sandpaper for wood (3M or Norton are available in most big DIY outlets) will work to get the bevels re-established faster and flatter than stones, and with less mess and more efficiency than wet and dry. I have used it on a glass backing for regrinding knives, chisels and plane irons. The grit stays on the paper better than wet and dry.

I forked out for a 220 grit water stone "brick" from Axminster many years ago. It cuts very fast, but wears equally fast and if you want to keep it flat you will be dressing down and throwing away about an equal amount of grit compared to what wears from actual sharpening.

 

[Will_]

Brilliant that's my watching for tonight sorted thank you very much will for all your guidance and help i hope some day i can return the favour but i highly doubt that day will come my friend

Cant wait to rub some mustard on my knife's haha

I'm sure you'll return the favour. A couple of years ago I was literally asking on here how to force a patina on a knife. I'd never heard of it either. You'll learn a lot on here. I mainly use forums to ask questions still...

 

[CumbrianLad]

Before and after https://imgur.com/Q8v07yK

Hey everyone just some progress i made on the knife cleaning it up