Interesting to know, as I have seen 3 and 5 pin versions, funny how things change, like yourself most working knifes of my youth and a fair few that I used were about 2mm thick and splitting wood you did with an axe or bill hook.
Bushman's friend restoration
- Thread starter snappingturtle
- Start date
I had both but if I think back to my youth a thin blade did most of the main tasks best, that being, whittling, cord cutting, prepping fish and other food prep tasks all FFG and not a scandi in sight.
As long as it is sharp, it does not matter what grind it is.
Decent steel, decent handle, sharp. Knife.
People get anal over insignificant stuff, instead of concentrating on more important things, like enjoying the peace and quiet time in nature.
Gets blunt? Take a stone and put an edge on it.
(the only knives I get anal about are my Japanese kitchen knives. Not the German ones. )
Decent steel, decent handle, sharp. Knife.
People get anal over insignificant stuff, instead of concentrating on more important things, like enjoying the peace and quiet time in nature.
Gets blunt? Take a stone and put an edge on it.
(the only knives I get anal about are my Japanese kitchen knives. Not the German ones. )
Yep they do! and yes you have a good point as long as its sharp, your good! the rest you can get around.The famous ( among Bushcraftnerds) Scandi edge is a bit of BS.
Yes, most ( or many) knives made in The Country Of Heroes have this grind by tradition, but the first time they get sharpened a secondary /micro bevel is put on them. Nobody I know would take the time to remove the fairly huge amount of steel to sharpen these knives and to keep the angle of the scandi grind.. And it would take forever.
Angles? Well, more than the Scandi grind obviously. My users have angles, for sure! More degrees towards the handle, seamlessly merging into an area of less degrees towards the tip.
Why? I want a sturdier edge towards the handle.
Yes, most ( or many) knives made in The Country Of Heroes have this grind by tradition, but the first time they get sharpened a secondary /micro bevel is put on them. Nobody I know would take the time to remove the fairly huge amount of steel to sharpen these knives and to keep the angle of the scandi grind.. And it would take forever.
Angles? Well, more than the Scandi grind obviously. My users have angles, for sure! More degrees towards the handle, seamlessly merging into an area of less degrees towards the tip.
Why? I want a sturdier edge towards the handle.
Scandi grind is kind of new for me, mostly had FFG and saber, and something that became apparent as soon as I thought about sharpening the Garberg was the mass of metal you would have to take off, so it got a polish and a micro edge, Its effective, still not my favourite grind as that would be FFG but that's not about the tool more about me adapting, like you said they all work if sharp as for angle well mainly uniform for most of my knives apart from the perang but that is because I use different areas for different tasks more than any other knife.
as for angle well mainly uniform for most of my knives apart from the perang but that is because I use different areas for different tasks more than any other knife.I tend to split/use more force towards the handle, and more delicate cutting towards the tip.
Never baton. Too many thin and 'just right' sticks and branches to be found.
Most of my tips are semi blunt. as never use them, so I do not take the time to get a nice tip.
Never baton. Too many thin and 'just right' sticks and branches to be found.
Most of my tips are semi blunt. as never use them, so I do not take the time to get a nice tip.
Interesting you leave the tip blunt, its something I noticed about both my bushman and dadley was the factory edge was bevelled at the tip but not to the level of having an edge, the tip will still puncture but is stronger for the lack of edge, I wonder if that was a common idea? or limitations of the steel?
In my case - laziness. in the manufacturers case - good for making holes (I guess), as you so wisely say!
My more expensive outdoor knives have almost a lozenge shaped ip profile. But they are old, from simple, Swedish, Norwegian, Finnish, or Commie era Czechoslovakian steels.
I am not mentioning the Soviet two knives I have ( for sentimental reasons) that are utter crap.
Not these modern, fantastic powdersteels and such...
Edit: Nobody cuts with the edge closest to the tip? Like the closest 1-2mm?
My more expensive outdoor knives have almost a lozenge shaped ip profile. But they are old, from simple, Swedish, Norwegian, Finnish, or Commie era Czechoslovakian steels.
I am not mentioning the Soviet two knives I have ( for sentimental reasons) that are utter crap.
Not these modern, fantastic powdersteels and such...
Edit: Nobody cuts with the edge closest to the tip? Like the closest 1-2mm?
Thanks for the compliments all, I like to use old blade's, they come with a sense of history which crass as it sounds you can feel about them, It has been nice to get this one back to working order, like an old horse it will still fulfil its purpose but at an easy pace. plus I now have a template so I might make a few.
That's really nice mate! It'll make a nice partner for that boat knife youre working on.
I dig the thin blades too. Lucky for me I've got stacks of antique crosscut saws to butcher into sonetsome usable!
I dig the thin blades too. Lucky for me I've got stacks of antique crosscut saws to butcher into sonetsome usable!
Thanks! Yer that dadley been really nice to use, was a good tradeThat's really nice mate! It'll make a nice partner for that boat knife youre working on.
I dig the thin blades too. Lucky for me I've got stacks of antique crosscut saws to butcher into sonetsome usable!
kind of got me back into using skinny blades again! What's the saw steel like? I'm just thinking I do see them going for a song as I think most find no use for them, might be a quicker route for me than forging bar for making thinner blades.
Thanks! Yer that dadley been really nice to use, was a good trade
The steel is great! Try to get a crosscut saw for £10 or less. Those vintage hipster shops want £20 a saw but eBay sellers have stacks of them for chump change if you collect.
I've found the steel to be ideal for thinner blades. Far cheaper, easier and quicker than forging round bar!
Superb job there. It is so good to see old tools/knives/possessions fettled ready for many more years of use. The steel is often superb and reuse is bushcrafty sustainable
Before the Bushman's Friend etch, the earlier ones just said 'Bushman'. I have one on the way (fingers crossed) to clean up and use.
I love them...and the old Sheffield Scout Knives with etched blades and full tang's.
Before the Bushman's Friend etch, the earlier ones just said 'Bushman'. I have one on the way (fingers crossed) to clean up and use.
I love them...and the old Sheffield Scout Knives with etched blades and full tang's.
I hope you do a thread! I see there is some variation in there form, be nice to see what yours is like.Superb job there. It is so good to see old tools/knives/possessions fettled ready for many more years of use. The steel is often superb and reuse is bushcrafty sustainable
Before the Bushman's Friend etch, the earlier ones just said 'Bushman'. I have one on the way (fingers crossed) to clean up and use.
I love them...and the old Sheffield Scout Knives with etched blades and full tang's.
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