Bow drill tweakings - bearing and spindle/drill

[Elines]

This afternoon I had a go at creating an ember with a bow drill just to make sure I could still do it and also to try out a variation on the bearing block. I also made another change to my set up - more later ......

First of all the bearing block.

Some people say the bearing block is so-called because you 'bear' down on it. That always struck me as a bit odd because it is a 'bearing' ie part of its job is to reduce friction (Engineers feel free to comment.)

Anyway it is the 'bearing' explanation that is used in a video I saw by Sean Mulhall, at:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o3a1RW7AJpQ&feature=em-uploademail

He uses a skate board wheel as the bearing block and he explains that this is just the first step - he is likely to develop it in the future.

In the comments to the video someone refers to a wheel bearing bracelet'. This is at:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ovgZKE4vbMU

In my experiment I used just the bearing. I got it from a bike shop. A new one would cost about £8 but I think mine was second hand and cost £1.50. In the Sean Mulhall video there are references to getting them from old electrical equipment, but I didn't have any to hand. I carved a hole in a bit of wood for it to go in:

I couldn't get it to fit in perfectly but that didn't seem to matter. I found that if you just angle the wooden block to give a smooth running bearing then it works well. After making my second mod (see below) I soon got an ember, and a pretty big one too.

The bearing doesn't take up much space and could be a valuable part of a fire drill set. But it would be a bit of a bind to cut a hole in a bit of wood each time so something like the bracelet idea would be helpful in reducing space/making it easier to find. Even if you used a skateboard/rollerskate wheel this would not take up much more space that a normal wooden block.

So if anyone has any ideas (in addition to the bracelet one) please suggest away.

The second mod was to the spindle. I don't recall seeing this before but know from experience that it is unlikely that no-one else has thought of it.

Spindle

When I had a go at actual drilling the cord kept coming off the spindle. So I just carved a double taper in the middle.

You can see that this doesn't have to be very elegant - even my rough and ready, near enuf, gud enuf approach worked well and - as I said above - i got a really good ember in very little time, and with little effort.

 

[Niels]

If your drill comes out of the bow, either you don't bow horizontally horizontally enough. I think you're overcomplicating things, read this if you haven't yet:

http://paulkirtley.co.uk/2011/bowdrill/

If I can make a few suggestions, you would benefit from a longer drill with a sharper upper tip, and just use hardwood or greenwood for a bearing block, as it's best to practise with those materials available to you when you need to depend on this skill

The very best of luck to you!

 

[Elines]

Thanks for taking the time to comment Niels. Maybe I need to sell the advantages a bit more!

Perhaps if I'd called it something like:

"Two ways to help you get an ember with a bow drill, especially when you are a beginner"

The use of a manufactured bearing reduces friction enormously and so:
.

• makes it much easier to carry out the actual drilling with minimal effort
• eliminates wear on the upper end of the spindle and so makes it last much longer.
  .

Some people use limpet shells for those reasons. I have only had one opportunity to use limpet shells and I found it much easier than a traditional wooden bearing block. One shell on its own wasn't sufficient as it got hot (with the friction) and so I needed another one (or something else) as insulation. In any case, not everyone (eg me) can get limpet shells and a mechanical bearing (especially if got from a scrap piece of equipment) is an alternative that may be easier for them to find.

As regards overcomplicating things, I'd agree that carving out a hole in a bit of wood is probably not necessary. I did it partly for carving practice as I've never carved a hole like that before. Next time I will probably have a go with a piece of folded leather (free from a furniture warehouse sample book) as a 'holder'. That could be a useful piece of light weight, multipurpose kit to have in my bag anyway.

The drill was quite a bit longer when I made it but it has worn down (from both ends) in use. When the drill is long, getting the angle of bowing correct is less important as you have a full length of spindle to play with in getting the cord back to the correct position. As the drill gets shorter then there is less room to play with, and so the cord is more likely to come off either end. Carving the double taper is - in effect - prolonging its useful life for little effort.

With the (mechanical) bearing you don't need a sharp tip and so this is one less thing for a beginner to have to think about. Or more likely - one less thing for them to think about when - after trying for a while - they haven't had any success.

So - in summary - I think both suggestions could be helpful, particularly for beginners, as each one reduces problems that people often have when trying to get all the different elements right when having a go at creating an ember by bow drilling.

 

[Elines]

OK .... now tried using the mechanical bearing with a square piece of leather, folded, as padding.

Worked well. After one false start - when I stopped too soon - I was able to get a steady bowing action with very little effort until I got loads of smoke and then speeded up for the last 20 - 30 or so. Ended up up with a big ember of about 0.25" diameter, so really pleased.

 

[Chiseller]

Here's my little tip.....
Take one empty coffee sachet .....place on bearing end.

Spin......after one use, you should get a Slippy and resilient surface that no longer requires the sachet. Simples

:thumbup:

 

[jimmypw]

Congratulations!

Just want to throw my 2¢ in for what it's worth.

For the first time the other day I successfully did the bow drill. And I did it all using natural materials exactly how I was taught. Every time I failed and assessed why it failed and learnt something in the process. Niels is right using mechanical aids will only hinder your ability to learn.

The three things I failed most on were material selection, attention to detail but most importantly, posture. I know this because I had to get it wrong to know this.

 

[mace242]

Congratulations!

Just want to throw my 2¢ in for what it's worth.

For the first time the other day I successfully did the bow drill. And I did it all using natural materials exactly how I was taught. Every time I failed and assessed why it failed and learnt something in the process. Niels is right using mechanical aids will only hinder your ability to learn.

The three things I failed most on were material selection, attention to detail but most importantly, posture. I know this because I had to get it wrong to know this.

Brilliantly said. When I did my first ever bushcraft course a few years back I was the first to have a bow drill fire lit. I didn't know but the instructor had been watching me and said that I did well because I kept stopping, looking at what was working, making fine adjustments, and trying again - then repeating until I had success. You summed it up perfectly.

 

[Shewie]

That's clever, I keep meaning to try a limpet shell but I always forget to pick one up when I'm on the coast

 

[Firelite]

I can see both sides to this. My road to success with this method was a long one and I can see how, when there are so many things that can prevent you from getting an ember, you might benefit from removing the most likely sources of problems, of which the OP has rightly identified top end friction as one. The confidence and experience gained by such practice can be helpful. That said, I think its important to keep focussed on your goal, and if that is to select materials and get a fire going, say all well within an hour, or whatever, then you have to keep upping your game until you can do that. I guess what the other contributors are saying is, don't get hung up on making it easier once you've got the idea. After all, as a technique, the bowdrill's key advantage is that you don't need any special kit. I don't think there's anything wrong with enjoying the journey though. Keep experimenting and enjoy pushing yourself.

 

[Elines]

I can see both sides to this. My road to success with this method was a long one and I can see how, when there are so many things that can prevent you from getting an ember, you might benefit from removing the most likely sources of problems, of which the OP has rightly identified top end friction as one. The confidence and experience gained by such practice can be helpful. That said, I think its important to keep focussed on your goal, and if that is to select materials and get a fire going, say all well within an hour, or whatever, then you have to keep upping your game until you can do that. I guess what the other contributors are saying is, don't get hung up on making it easier once you've got the idea. After all, as a technique, the bowdrill's key advantage is that you don't need any special kit. I don't think there's anything wrong with enjoying the journey though. Keep experimenting and enjoy pushing yourself.

I think that is a fair and balanced comment.

We could have a very esoteric discussion on where to draw the line with what is sometimes referred to as 'cheating' but which others just see as using technology in a reasonable way to improve quality of experience (however defined).

Maybe when it gets to the stage of beaming down a caravan with all mod cons directly to a wood the technology will have gone too far - but I think we are a long way from that at the moment.

My aim was to draw attention to what I thought was a very good idea that many would find of interest (failed on that last bit though!!).

 

[Niels]

Just for the record, I thought it was of interest, and it was an interesting post. IMHO They can indeed be good tips for a beginner, before learning to deal with the problems described with the materials mother nature provides. I think the thread raised an important point and it is a good read.

Niels

 

[Elines]

Just for the record, I thought it was of interest, and it was an interesting post. IMHO They can indeed be good tips for a beginner, before learning to deal with the problems described with the materials mother nature provides. I think the thread raised an important point and it is a good read.

Niels

Ok, thanks for that.

 

[Elines]

Now had a go at using it in the wood - as opposed to testing it out at the back of the house.

Worked well - as expected - but I found I had to be very disciplined in putting it back in my pocket etc as it would be very easy to mislay/lose.

I didn't have a piece of leather (forgot to take it) but I did have some thick gloves I use for handling hot pans/moving bits of wood on the fire and wearing one of them worked ok.

So there is merit in wearing it as a bracelet - or otherwise making it more difficult to lose.

The bracelet link is:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ovgZKE4vbMU