Blade Steel "What type do I have"

[shaneh]

Hi, this is my first post in a LONG while...

Im having a custom Bushcraft Knife made to my spec in Hongkong. I have a contact who knows a supplier there that going to make it for me.

Now originally the blade was going to be made of the cheaper AUS-8 maybe 440C the supplier say it is HR58, but my contact says possibly 56-58hrc Im confused.

But after a little study I wanted to upgrade to ATS-34 steel...

Now my problem being, how do I know that im not going to be conned with AUS-8 stamped ATS-34

Is there a test that I could do to prove that im getting what im paying for?

Many Thanks

 

[blacktimberwolf]

Why have it made in Hong Kong ? (unless you're in Hong Kong of course).......there are quite a few excellent knife makers in the UK including on this forum, who would have made you a custom knife using quality steel.

 

[ged]

Don't get hung up on the steel. Proper heat treatment and edge geometry are at least as important. Nothing wrong with AUS-8, good corrosion resistance and easy to sharpen which are both good properties in the field. A well heat-treated AUS-8 will outperform a poorly heat-treated ATS34.

Years ago 440C was top of the range, you just have more choice now - CPM154, CPM440V, S30V, S90V, RWL34... Or you can go retro with something like 12c27 which I still like a lot -- in fact my favourite folder is 12c27. The wide range of choices makes your head spin but any of them will cut things. I've just bought my first S30V blade just to try it (on a Leatherman Charge) and so far I'm very impressed with it, but it tells you the sort of bloke I am when I say I waited a decade or two for them to iron out the wrinkles before taking the plunge. Glad I did.

What do you want out of the knife? What are your thoughts on grind, overall geometry, blade thickness, length, weight, point location, belly, false edge, ricasso, choil, tang, handle size, shape and materials, bolsters, pins, lanyard hole...?

 

[shaneh]

Probably Cost was at the top of that list.

I have a friend who had one made for him, from the same source, its was also Very Cheep, (Designed around a Famous Knife) but then tell me one which isn't.
Its Well balances Very Sharp and Looks the part... But would it stand up to hard physical work? Im not soo sure.

I was wondering how you tested the quality of a good Blade? not the sharpness, but the quality of the Steel.

I have a Genuine BayleyKnife "Bear Grylls" Again tailored to my spec slightly, this one was given to me as a leaving present from my last Job, So I know Quality, im just afraid to use it.
I also wanted to pass it onto my Son, When te times right. which was why I have gone down the route of a cheeeper one. LOL

 

[shaneh]

What do you want out of the knife? What are your thoughts on grind, overall geometry, blade thickness, length, weight, point location, belly, false edge, ricasso, choil, tang, handle size, shape and materials, bolsters, pins, lanyard hole...?

Ok, as above... I have my perfect Knife, It fits my hand Perfectly.. Its Well Balanced and Does all the Jobs I want it to do... and probably way more than im prepared to do with it.
I haven’t used it to its full capacity, It get taken everywhere (Bushcraft / Rough Camping) but I find myself using "Other" Blades (I take a couple) mainly because:-
A: its too expensive to damage
B: It holds too many memories
and C: because I want to pass it onto my son with my other mementos

The Cheaper one is designed around this knife, for the above reasons.

 

[robevs73]

It's a tool, use it!

 

[ged]

It's a tool, use it!

Couldn't agree more.

 

[Retired Member southey]

but then your cheaper knife will have all the memories.