Blade Grinds

[hootchi]

I was just wondering if anyone could enlighten me on the bewildering variety of blade grinds that are available on different knives.

There seem to be so many and some of the same grinds have different names. The names against the profiles would be good and which ones are reccomended for bushcraft.

I know what a convex grind, and flat grind are but when it comes to full flat grind, scandi grind, single bevel, saber grind and the moran edge I am lost! :?:

It seems that there are so many so you dont need to try to name them all at once. Only the best for buchcraft or the ones that the more specialist grinds are derived from.

Thanks,
Hootchi :biggthump

 

[Stuart]

Chris, Martyn, Hoodoo !!!!!!! I think this is a question for you guys!

 

[Andy]

saber/scandy/flat/zero degree edge - what the woodlore knife is I.E a single bevel per side

moran grind is another name for convex (after bill moran IIRC)

flat can also be called full flat - bevel from the spine, normaly having a small secondary bevel to form the edge this is kitchen knife type grind (a lot of good kitchen knives are infact very shallow hollow grind)

hollow- ground on a wheel so you have a concave scoop taken out of metal

chisel grind - one side is flat like a chisel, makes a very small angle over all so cuts wood rather well. I would think this would be best for making feather sticks

thats the short answer for more details look at
http://www.worldknives.com/geometry.asp

 

[Hoodoo]

I think Andy summed it up pretty well. :biggthump

 

[C_Claycomb]

Check out:
http://www.bladeforums.com/features/faqs.shtml

That should cover pretty much everything!!

I always feel that a knife is a little more than the sum of its parts. Bushcraft covers such a wide range of subjects that ANY blade grind can be good for something.

There is more than just picking a grind type. Edge geometry is more important for determining how a knife cuts, a steep single bevel, scandi type grind won't be any better a cutter than a flat grind that has an equally steep secondary bevel. In fact, the flat grind will slice better.

In other words, not all blades sharing the same grind style are created equal.

At the end of the day most blades can be re-ground to have a grind and geometry that will suit what you want to do, if might be more hard work than you want, but it is doeable. However, if the handle is poor, or the materials are cheap...

If you talk to enough people you will find someone who uses every type of blade profile for bushcraft. I even have an artilce published in a good US magazine that reckons an Americanised Tanto is a great bushcraft knife. Most people feel that such blade profiles are the worst possible for bushcraft, but it clearly worked for that person.

Clip points are often too weak for use in bushcraft, but there are knives out there that have clip points that see a LOT of use in the field. Some designs are stronger than others.

Sorry to ramble on so. I am interested in knives and it pains me when people say that the "best" bushcraft knives are single bevel scandis. They have pros and cons, just like everything else :rolmao:

 

[spamel]

Just been searching for this sort of thread as I have an MOD survival knife that I got with a secondary bevel on it. It was sharp, but lost it's edge quickly, bearing in mind that I chop wood with it. I got fed up with always sharpening the damned thing, and so me and Mr Dremel ground the edge to a single bevel edge.

Is this adviseable, because I did it long before I found this site, and it is a dream to sharpen, it takes no time at all, and it will chop all day and not get blunt. It is quite sharp, I can't split an atom with it or shave my arm completely, but it takes a few hairs off. Can anyone enlighten me please?

 

[CanRanger]

Just to add to the previous description any flat grind that ends with a smaller grind at the edge with a slight degree in angle change I know to be referred to as a "MICRO BEVEL". the same type that was referred to on the kitchen knives. This combination of bevels finishing in a Micro Bevel is also how most woodworking tools are finished off plane blades and chisels. It releases stress over the entire length of the bevel and makes for a more secure stout edge resistant to chipping or rolling. Common angles found in usage are 25- 30 degrees for various knives and 30-35 degrees are usually found in wood working. The first set of 25-39 can vary depending on the type of job done.

I usually refer to plane blades and chisel blades as being asymmetrically ground their are a few knife makers that utilize that CRKT uses it on a few model the K.I.S.S. the Serengeti and a new one called the Side Hawk.

Abe