Bevel angles for palm chisels

[humdrum_hostage]

Help!

I have got a cheap set of palm chisels as I really cant afford a good set right now. Can anyone help with what angles they should be sharpened at?

I have straights V's and U-shaped but they all seem to do sweet FA when using them.

 

[Fraxinus]

Somewhere in the 20 to 25 degree range.
20 for softwoods then increasing for harder woods.
In this case soft and hard refer to the material strengths rather than whether it is deciduous or coniferous so Lime will be classed softer than say Lignum Vitae.
hth, Rob.

edit page 24 of this pdf

 

[humdrum_hostage]

Somewhere in the 20 to 25 degree range.
20 for softwoods then increasing for harder woods.
In this case soft and hard refer to the material strengths rather than whether it is deciduous or coniferous so Lime will be classed softer than say Lignum Vitae.
hth, Rob.

edit page 24 of this pdf

Your a star!

Cheers Rob

 

[mrcharly]

I found that small V gouges tend to 'rise up' out of the work. Quite a bit of downward pressure needed to keep cutting a V.

 

[Fraxinus]

Your a star!

Cheers Rob

Just glad to be of help.

I found that small V gouges tend to 'rise up' out of the work. Quite a bit of downward pressure needed to keep cutting a V.

Sometimes the angle of attack is more important (than pressure), raising the end of the handle will allow/maintain a deeper cut but it depends on what you hope to produce with a particular tool.
ie: are your trying to do something with a straight 'V' that would be better achieved with a swept 'V'?
I am one of the worst for making tools do more than they are designed for and it usually comes at the cost of making the task harder.

Rob.

 

[Robson Valley]

I use 20 degrees, total included bevel, for all of my gouges.
Hard woods (eg birch heart wood) just need much shallower cuts than for western red cedar, yellow cedar, pine and spruce.

I have some V tools, both large and small. They don't see 12" travel in a year. One wing is always stabbing into the grain in a curve.
Instead, I'll make a centerline cut with something like a chip carving knife then come back to that from each side, following the grain
with 1S/12 skews (aka 1/2" skew at 20 degrees. 1S is the Pfeil #, #2 is the London Pattern Book #).