Best wax for a canvas pack?

[Chainsaw]

Hi All,

I have a canvas pack I'd like to wax, can you guess which one....

Yep second row, left. From what I have read and watched, it seems pretty straighforward, heat wax and bag, thinly apply, heat wax and bag and maybe a tumble dry in an only pillow slip before leaving to air dry. Repeat if required. Sound about right??

Anyway the question is, what wax? I've seen the FJallraven greenland stuff, the Frost River Mertexin stuff and a fair few homemade affairs that seem to work pretty well. As I understand it I'm looking for a wax with quite a high melting point to avoid the permanently waxy feel you sometime get on barbour coats etc (slightly different thing) I am also going to need quite a lot of it, thinking 2 coats.

• Saw this thread, 90% paraffin wax to 10% beeswax. Beeswax I should have (Sister in law has bees) but where to get paraffin wax? Are these ok Paraffin and beeswax
• A mix of beeswax, boiled linseed oil and turpentine... hmm may be a little runny (low melting point)
• equal parts wax, neetsfoot oil, and paraffin

So anyone got any recommendations for (bulk) commercial wax or indeed a tried and tested recipe? The first one looks like it's pretty sound and with the highest melting point but it would be helpful to know about the sources for the raw materials too as I seem to have an uncanny knack for buying the wrong thing.

Cheers,

Alan

 

[nephilim]

I used pure beeswax on mine, nothing but. Ran it over until the whole thing was covered inside and out...and then ran over with a hair dryer until it melted in. Been fine since, but that said, this was before I discovered this website.

 

[Chainsaw]

hmmm, love beeswax, the smell is ace. Is it pretty stiff or still pretty flexible, how does it feel, waxy or just a little bit waxy...?

 

[nephilim]

feels a little waxy, but thats the trade off I have to put up with for having a very dry canvas bag!

 

[Dave]

Nice selection of canvas bags, bet they look great loaded in the canoe. I might have a go at this with one of mine.

 

[Chainsaw]

yeah they do, although 2 are for travelling, 1 for archery and 3 for canoeing;

Looks like I'll try those ebay suppliers and see how I get on...

 

[British Red]

Right, some thoughts as a guy who messes with this stuff

Linseed oil acts on plant fibres causing rags to combust. It shouldn't do that in a blend but may well weaken the fibres.

Turpentine is a volatile solvent, it will eventually evaporate so its only function would be to make the wax softer to penetrate the material and then dry out.

Neetsfoot oil is primarily used in leather dressings to soften leather that has dried out.

Paraffin is an oil distillate and is non drying. It can have a bad effect on synthetic fibres including stitching.

Paraffin wax is a soft pliable wax used in candle making.

Beeswax is a hard wax, prone to cracking.

A blend of paraffin and beeswax will need to be warmed either in a double boiler prior to applying or with hot air after application in order to penetrate the fibres. Alternatively a solvent such as turpentine may be added in manufacture to make a softer wax for application that will eventually harden. It does not improve protection.

Varying the proportions of paraffin and beeswax will change the stiffness after application.

Hth

 

[Chainsaw]

Thanks BR, good info (and probably oft repeated,) appreciate it.

Sounds like a 90/10 PW/BW mix would be best, turpentine would be optional but may just use heat instead. Also an 80/20 mix would increase stiffness. OK to ebay we go then.

 

[British Red]

I would try those. Use yellow beeswax rather than white if you want to darken the material. If you buy pellets / beads rather than blocks its easier to weigh out. An old treacle or syrup tin works well for storage. Do use a double boiler for melting, flashovers are scary as hell. I suggest painting on the melted wax, but it sets fast on cold cloth so warm the bag first and have a hot air gun available to really get it in deep.

 

[Chainsaw]

ingredients ordered, may do a couple of test batches, a 90/10 and an 80/20 to see the difference.

100g Beeswax - £2.90
500g Paraffin wax - £4.30
total of £7.20 for about 550g of proofing wax...

Usually about 8 quid for 100g retail....

Will let you know how it turns out.

 

[British Red]

That sounds a sensible approach. Look forward to seeing the results, you will be surprised how different the two proportions handle. Good to see someone making their own. Boot wax next!

 

[Chainsaw]

I've some canvas left from my trangia bag and kettle sleeve projects so will test on that, it's a similar weight.

 

[Dave]

Ive tried Barbour wax tins, on tilley hats and rucksacks, with a heat gun on low power but it seems to dissapate quickly.

 

[British Red]

You have to be careful not to cook it off Dave. Barbour wax is a relatively soft wax too, something a little stiffer may be in order.

 

[Dave]

Right, cheers Red.

 

[User3326]

Hi folks. If you haven't already waxed your packs, or any one else reading this, 4:1 parafin wax to mineral oil is what i use on my canvas shoes/boots/shoulder bag. Experimented a lot with ratio's and other oils/waxes a couple of years ago and found the 4:1 parafin wax to mineral oil is flexible enough not turn your canvas too white but dry enough so you don't have that greasy slick feel. You can go down to 3:1 as well if you want something a bit more flexible but not greasy.

The 4:1 is done by weight. unscented tea candles (£1 for large bag in any poundshop with foil, wick and holder removed) and baby oil ( which is mineral oil and light scent. Again £1 a bottle). Cheap, simple and works really well.

Weight it out, put in a tin can to melt and poor into a mold ( silicone cake mold works well.) when its set work the block of wax into your canvas and melt into the fabric with a heat gun on low or hair dryer on full whack. A single heavy coat is enough. Once its cooled down and "set" work the material to loosen it up and knock the excess wax off with a soft scrubbing brush to get a nice matt finish. Baby oil smell only last a day or two btw ;-)

ATB

 

[Bongonaut]

Hi guys,recently used the 90/10% mix on my lk35 backpack,works well,applied from the "bar" I made and had an open fire going (and a bottle of red!!) once applied held close enough to melt but not burn🔥🔥 to fire....watch the wax melt into canvas and presto let it dry overnight,suggest packing it out to shape with newspaper etc so dries into shape,repels water well,keep applying until it's a s stiff/waterproof as needed,would put pics up. but not worked that one out yet...😏

 

[Chainsaw]

So 100g of beeswax and 500gs of paraffin wax arrived today... experiment time

 

[nephilim]

Good luck. Remember it will take a few layers to ensure proper protection. Rub the mix in until you see it coated the outside then go over with a hair dryer. May also be worthwhile keeping something in side it that will help it hold its shape.

 

[British Red]

Given you will have to melt it together, you could choose to keep it warm in a double boiler, it will penetrate much better that way. A hot air gun will be needed though unless you keep the canvas warm too. Have fun.