Before I wreck a rotary cutter blade…….

Robson Valley

On a new journey
Nov 24, 2014
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I don't see how cutting metal foil will rejuvenate a cloth-cutting edge. Just don't see how. Or why.
In spite of my experience sharpening and rehabbing wood carving tools, I'd say: "Go for it."
If your blade is dull now, might as well try the fix before sending it off.

Thread title: I was hoping you were going to explain how to fix a diamond blade from a Dremel SawMax!
 

johntarmac

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May 17, 2015
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I'm with Robson Valley in not understanding how it works BUT I did read about doing it to scissors and out of curiosity tried it on and old pair with some success. I don't know how sharp the scissors would have ended up because I got impatient and finished them with a file.

I will definitely give it a try when my rotary cutter isn't cutting the mustard anymore.
 

Nice65

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Apr 16, 2009
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Are they a single or double bevel blade mary?

Think it's bevelled both sides.

The only thing I see occurring between the soft layers of aluminium and the blade is a crude stropping process. I don't really get it though.

Presumably normal sharpening is difficult unless the blade can be rotated on a drill or lathe? And also, does a size reduction on the blade diameter affect performance over time?
 

Macaroon

A bemused & bewildered
Jan 5, 2013
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Like others, I can't tell you the science of it but it works on scissors. I keep a cheap pair of them on my desk, they've been there for years and get called on to perform all sorts of tasks that they really weren't meant to.

Once or twice a year when I notice them getting blunt I do exactly what's suggested in the link above and it always brings them back perfectly. I'd always thought there must be some connection between Ali foil and the fact that a lot of the sharpening/honing compounds are made from Aluminium Oxide :dunno: Also the fact that, with scissors anyway, you're kind of linishing one blade agin the other with the Ali. Ox. in between.
 

Toddy

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Jan 21, 2005
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Aye and a wee tight twist of cloth full of fine sand was used to sharpen needles too.
I'm inclined to think that much of this is just honing really, taking off burrs and the like, but I'm not sure.

The rotary cutter blade is bevelled both sides. The one I'm using just now said on the packing that it was titanium….hmmm, not sure tbh. It's still very sharp indeed, but I do go through them. I keep a wee paté tin with a close fitting lid for 'Dead sharps' that gets the bent pins, occasional carp needles and the like that I don't want to just throw loose in the bin. I've been putting the dead rotary cutter blades in too. I think I might burrow out the one I know is in there (I pinged the edge of it, not sure how, but it was definitely chipped) and give this a go. The rest of that blade was sharp though so not sure if I'd notice the difference.
The ones I'm using just now (they come 18mm, 28mm, 45 and 60mm) are all relatively fresh and sharp.
I did look into buying a sharpener for them, but Himself said I'd be better off just spending the money to buy new blades. So I didn't bother.

M
 

Dave Budd

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Jan 8, 2006
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Sciencey bit. This is what I think is happening, but without trying it and having a microscope on hand to look, I can't confirm.

You blade is normally cutting through cloth and into a PVC mat. The edge being very thin at the edge will chip a little as it hits and pulls out of the board (also any contaminants in the cloth from the manufacture or storage). So rather than rolling a smooth continuous edge across the cloth you are now rolling a spiked wheel over it and it isn't cutting at every part of the wheel.

By cutting the ali foil I think two things are happening: the hardness of the foil is stropping off any turned over edge, whilst the softness of the individual layers (doubt this would work on a thick sheet) of aluminium is plugging the gap between the teeth creating a solid wheel again. Granted the plugs will be temporary as they are soft, but it's a quick temporary fix.

The same would probably hold true for scissors with ali foil. I've certainly noticed the smear from aluminium on some fabric shears that I only use for cutting stainless steel foil. The small imperfections are plugged (they are big enough to see with the naked eye!) if I've cut ali foil recently and the steel foil gets a cleaner cut.

As for cutting fine sand paper with scissors. The reason it works is that the sandpaper removes the burr from the inside of the blades where it has turned over from cutting stuff. This is the same thing that I do when I sharpen scissors as a final step, though I use a fine ceramic stone and wipe it across the blade carefully so as to not round the inside off! The rounding off of the inside is why I wouldn't recommend the sandpaper trick ;)

That's my theory anyway.


n.b. Mary, the titanium blades are most likely a titanium (nitride?) coating that gives them lower friction and supposedly keeps the edges longer. I have drill bits that are the same and they are just normal HSS bits under a pink or white coating, I've noticed no difference and certainly not after I've sharpened them!
 
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sunndog

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May 23, 2014
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derbyshire
Dave beat me to it, but yeah i think the foil is just stropping the super fine 'wire' edge off it

Its as much just smoothing it as sharpening i reckon
 

Toddy

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Jan 21, 2005
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No. The damned thing is like a round razor blade. It's absolutely lethal.
I think I'd just buy the sharpener thing if I were going to that effort, tbh.
In all the years I've been using them I've only sliced myself once. I brush it agin the front of my thumb in a moment of inattention and sliced a neat, instantly bloody line, just about down to the bone in a split second.
Once was enough; I'm not risking that again. Scalpels dream of being this sharp. Mine cuts through six layers of cotton with absolute ease, it goes through flesh even quicker :sigh:
It rotates simply by being loose enough on the mandrel that it turns as it cuts the fabric.

I think Dave's right about the titanium edge thing too….much like a buck knife; sharp as a sharp thing, but oh they chip and snap if you look at them wrong. Probably how I managed to chip that last one.

On the whole they last me very well indeed :) I did buy some of the cheap ones from China on ebay (they're probably all made there nowadays anyway, just some are better finished /hardened than others I reckon) but I went through five of them in the time I usually go through one, so a wee bit of a hmmmm? moment. I bought another set from the UK that were identical to the ebay/China ones to look at but they lasted me twice as long….cost me more right enough.
Anyway, that's rather why I wondered if this cutting tinfoil trick would work. I strop my knives every time I use them before I put them by, it'd be no great hardship to do the same to the rotary cutter blades if they'd stay sharp longer. I just don't have any of the cheaper blades to hand right now.

Thanks for the thoughts and information on this folks :D :You_Rock_

M
 

Robson Valley

On a new journey
Nov 24, 2014
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McBride, BC
One bevel or both sides?

Western Red Cedar is a soft carving wood.
Nevertheless, I can feel the gouge edge going away, the effort increasing for cuts, over 30-60 minutes.
Half a dozen honing strokes on a strop makes a world of difference and only takes a minute.

I wonder if you need to become adept at doing the same thing?
 

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