Battery question

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banksy

Member
Jan 12, 2010
24
0
Somerset
Today my quad bike wouldn't start. Battery sounds flat - enough power to turn over but not enough to fire.

Condition shows battery is empty but it will not charge using my cheap "intelligent" charger - charges for about 15 seconds then shows 'full" which it obviously isn't.

Can I recover this battery, or is it dead?

Thanks!

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Garages have very powerful chargers and they are sometimes able to ‘shock’ a battery back to life.
I have had this done several times, but still always needed to replace the battery in the next 6 months or so.

This only works if the internals are undamaged.

I see you have a modern absorb mat type battery. I gave those up a couple of years ago. More expensive, lasted the same as the oldfashioned ones.

I have also tried gel type batteries, same there. Have only two left installed, but will replace when they die.

I prefer maintenance free batteries where you can inspect the liquid level.
 
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Can I recover this battery, or is it dead?

Now that it is out of the quad, I would leave it somewhere warm over night and then try and charge tomorrow. I find if a flat battery is cold it can be harder to charge and if it's been in a vehicle that is taking current then removing and waiting a while before charging also helps.

It may well be best to replace the battery but I've recovered a few and they've gone on to last a couple of years if I remember to charge them up from time to time.
 
If in a garage, best to have it on a plugged in trickle charger at all times.
If kept outdide, a solar powered trickle charger.

Batteries cost crazy money for what they are.
 
I see you have a modern absorb mat type battery...

I think this may be the problem. The charger says it's for "normal" lead batteries, and from what I've been reading, the AGM batteries require a special charger.

I've ordered one and we'll see what happens, but I suspect that trickle charging with the wrong charger has killed this battery.

Live and learn.
 
I've got agm batteries in my workshop and the charger I use is the same as the one I used for lead acid, but then it is an off-grid smart charger so I guess it can tell the difference (the manual does say to change settings for gel, but to leave as is for the other two types).

With lead acids that I've had, my Ctek charger has a 'reconditioning mode' which does seem to revitalise a battery that doesn't charge properly. I think it's because the high current spikes are meant to break off the sulphides that form on the lead sheets, thus allowing the battery to charge again. AGM batteries work the same, but the amperages and voltages used to spike and trickle are slightly different to lead acid (I've got the figures in a book in the workshop if you are really interested, but it is seriously dull!).

Generally though, I've found that a work out battery is just not worth the hassle or worry, just get a new one.

Also, a starting battery is not the same as a deep cycle battery. If you are starting an engine then get a battery designed for it (high cold start rating). It will work better and for longer ;) And get a better charger, my little 20amp (ish) Ctek wasn't a lot of money and has done sterling work for over a decade now on AGM and lead acids for tractors, caras, LED lightings and off grid battery banks
 
I've got agm batteries in my workshop and the charger I use is the same as the one I used for lead acid, but then it is an off-grid smart charger so I guess it can tell the difference (the manual does say to change settings for gel, but to leave as is for the other two types).

With lead acids that I've had, my Ctek charger has a 'reconditioning mode' which does seem to revitalise a battery that doesn't charge properly. I think it's because the high current spikes are meant to break off the sulphides that form on the lead sheets, thus allowing the battery to charge again. AGM batteries work the same, but the amperages and voltages used to spike and trickle are slightly different to lead acid (I've got the figures in a book in the workshop if you are really interested, but it is seriously dull!).

Generally though, I've found that a work out battery is just not worth the hassle or worry, just get a new one.

Also, a starting battery is not the same as a deep cycle battery. If you are starting an engine then get a battery designed for it (high cold start rating). It will work better and for longer ;) And get a better charger, my little 20amp (ish) Ctek wasn't a lot of money and has done sterling work for over a decade now on AGM and lead acids for tractors, caras, LED lightings and off grid battery banks

Okay, thanks for the advice.

New battery and charger on order!
 
I can vouch for the Ctek chargers. I run a couple at all times, and on those cars, the batteries are perfect. One is a gel battery, two are the old fashioned liquid acid and lead.

I have the model 7002, it automatically changes to the battery.
 
If that vehicle battery is a typical lead/sulfuric acid battery, the plates do get sulfate-coated.
Might be a "Hail Mary" effort to get it up again.
But, I'll bet good money that it won't last and it will fail again when you need it most.

Isn't that what you call "Sod's Law?"

Solar panels, charge controller, 6VDC deep cycle batteries in series. 1,500W sine wave inverter for 117VAC.
Total plate area determines total energy storage capacity. Superior to single 12VDC Deep cycle batteries.
 
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