With pull cuts, I'd add some sort of an apron/bib/chest protector.
Single edge blades do have that great advantage in that you can turn them around for a cut,
pushing on the blunt spines of the blades. I prefer this.
Can't do that with the traditional 2-edged design of the PacNW crooked knife blades.
Is there a particular value to the blunt blade tip?
Most of the time, I'd rather get a dull blade than a sharp one done incorrectly.
Which do you prefer? Agreed, doing up a crooked knife does take a little practice.
I got a Sheffield Mocotaugan style crooked knife blade. There is supposed to be bevel on one side only.
Some dim bulb twit put a 40 degree back bevel on the under side of the blade as well. Took ages to grind out.
That means that I jointed the entire edge past the 40 degree bevel and started over.
Next, I put a good 15 degree beveled and honed edge on that blade, where it should be.
Yeah, that works really well when the bevel is on the outside of the sweep of the blade.
All of mine have the bevels on the inside. Farrier's knives and west coast crooked knives.
I have to hold/clamp the blade down then move the abrasive at the needed angle.
It's completely bass-akwards to what's conventional.
Did you notice how little his arms move? That he's using both arms together? 10X magnifier for inspection?
A lot of the motion comes with his whole body = he sharpens from his knees, he's standing up.
Exactly, the hands/arms just keep the angle , it's the knees that move.
He does use the ceramic sharpener on the inside of the bevel there, I suppose you could wrap different grits/grades on the mandril and just do it that way isn't it?
Right again. I wrap the sandpapers around metal tubing, wooden dowels and worn out chainsaw files.
The off side of the bevel needs 2 or 3 passes just to knock down any wire edge if you get one.
I use the 1,500 grit paper 2-3 times and say: "That has to be good enough." It usually is.
John: You should not need to flex your wrists at all = you are the jig, you must move just from your knees.
The Stubai carver's adze is a 7/75 blade (#7 sweep, 75mm/3" wide.)
A tennis ball is exactly the right size as a mandrel.
The papers get wrinkled, I wish I cared but I don't
The black felt marker shows me where I've worked.