Anyone to sharpen my axe please ?

[Paullyfuzz]

Hi Ya,

Im not too bad with sharpening my knives, but the axe sharpening seems a dark art. Ive read BR thread on it, buti dont really have the time if im honest to get it all done.
Ive got a GB SFA which ive stupidly dinked in a few places. Ive filed the edge down, but cant seem to get any further and have no idea how to get the convex edge on it again.

If some kind person could take pity on me and get my axe back up to how it should be, i would be very very greatfull. I will of course provide either a cash or trade of some sorts to reimburse you.

Cheers,

Paul

 

[addo]

Just carry on with your file along the bevel either side, making it slightly convexed, till it looks equal on both sides, and at the angle you feel happy working with. The origonal on the SFA is ok for most jobs.

Then use the stones in the hand using a circular motion which helps to keep the convex, course, medium, fine. ect. Finish on a fine flat stone on the bench, and I then strop. Takes about 1/2 hr and as easy to do as your knife. Give it a whirl.

 

[Peter_t]

do what addo said it doesn't take that long. also if it is only chipped in one place only flatern that area, the edge doesn't have to be perfectly rounded and after a few more sharpens the edge will be round again.

tbh if you can't look after it yourself you shouldn't be useing it

pete

 

[spamel]

Sometimes, being shown how to do something is the only way to learn. It may be a good idea if you can make it to the Middlewood meet where there is bound to be somebody who can show you how to sharpen it properly.

 

[swanseajack]

Hi. I have a GB Wildlife Hatchet. It wasn't sharp enough for doing things like feathering sticks finely, so I was waiting to find an old axe that I could practice sharpening before I took my file or coarse hone to the GB. I have taken the GB to a pasted strop and fine hone, but, it needs more radical work to make it "bite".
I found a Snail Brand axe that had surface rust and lots of dings in the edge, but seemed well hardened. I got the rust off with a sanding drum on a Dremel, being carefull not to get the edge warm. I have a round backed file that I would guess is 'medium' in coarseness, and filed away at the edge with the prescribed rocking motion to remove the dings and create an even convex bevel. I used my judgement to keep things even - and it worked! The file left a burred edge( or flash as Sheffield cutlers call it) ready to be rubbed off with hones. BTW I used the flat side of the file and only made contact with the forward/away stroke of the file .
I then used a recently aquired GB pocket hone in a circular fashion as shown in the GB axe book.The edge eventually got very sharp indeed with no flash or burr left. I was very happy, it bites wood rather well now. I wanted to get a nice shine on the edge, so I took the axe to a hanging strop pasted with Peeks metal polish. I hold the axe almost flat on the hanging strop and it seems to work really well. I think I did about 50 laps (1 lap= 1 up and down)
Anyway, you can shave with the axe now, and can do so even after a small amount of wood choping. I made a little mask out of scrap leather for it too.
I'm now not dreading having a bash at my GB, actualy I wonder how sharp it's gonna get seeing as they are suposed to be so good.
Have faith and have a go, it can be done. Good luck.

here is the finished axe
http://www.flickr.com/photos/34443863@N08/3880494121/

 

[andywinkk]

i got a linisher here paul if you wana pop down,,,i have a buffing wheel and many many stones ect

 

[Peter_t]

Linisher is the way to go!
Took my SFA and gave it a scandi grind :yikes: but you know what...it really works for me.

a scandy ground axe? i can't imagen that working well, surely the edge gets chipped too easily?

pete