Seagull,
Thanks for the tip. It's been on the "to do " list for some time now, so I must get the old digit out!
Dave
Thanks for the tip. It's been on the "to do " list for some time now, so I must get the old digit out!
Dave
Anyone have experience with Helle knives?
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I was given a Nying about 25 years ago, and it's a little beauty. Even after such a long time it is in great condition, although I find having such a short blade makes it a pain to sharpen (mostly it's curve!). The Nying is too little to be used as a serious bushcraft knife, but if the rest of the Helle range has the same quality, you can't go wrong there. I was considering getting an Eggen or Fjellkniven a couple of years ago, but I went for the Fallkniven F1 instead - a very nice knife, but the plastic handle isn't as classy as the Helle wood.
Oh, yeah, I also had the old model Speider (scout) knife: pretty basic, but the carbon steel blade was seriously sharp. Lucky Nordic Scouts! They are allowed to have proper knives.....
Slán,
Mal
Oh, yeah, I also had the old model Speider (scout) knife: pretty basic, but the carbon steel blade was seriously sharp. Lucky Nordic Scouts! They are allowed to have proper knives.....
Slán,
Mal
I have a helle knife i picked up in italy last feb and i must say that it has been very reliable tool, only prob is the sheath is a bit on the soft side.
Boon
Boon
I have the Helle Fjellkniven and like it a lot 
. It has a very comfortable handle and I don't find the guard to be a problem. The steel is very easy to sharpen and strop to a razor edge. The outer stainless layers are quite soft and scratch easily and are not hard enough to strike sparks from a ferrocerium rod, but I think you could overcome this by filing the outer layers to expose the inner hardened core on a small section of the spine.
Overall I find it to be a great knife at a very good price
. It has a very comfortable handle and I don't find the guard to be a problem. The steel is very easy to sharpen and strop to a razor edge. The outer stainless layers are quite soft and scratch easily and are not hard enough to strike sparks from a ferrocerium rod, but I think you could overcome this by filing the outer layers to expose the inner hardened core on a small section of the spine.Overall I find it to be a great knife at a very good price
I got myself a Helle Fjellman in Norway becuase they are small, v sharp, comfortable handle, etc.
http://www.helleknives.com/product12.html
I would argue that these are pretty good for 'everyday' use, general cutting, etc. However, I'm guessing that the abuse you would give a 'proper' full-tang, 4-5" bladed, survival knife (like Woodlore or SBT) might be a bit much for such a small blade. It could be carried as a back-up to a primary blade and I like the Fjellman for pretty much everything except battoning and hammering into a tree and standing on (as Mors would probably want to do). Because of its versatility, size and weight, this is the one that lives in my go-bag. It's size makes it much more practical for the vast majority of tasks and you're less likely to scare the neighbours with it.
http://www.helleknives.com/product12.html
I would argue that these are pretty good for 'everyday' use, general cutting, etc. However, I'm guessing that the abuse you would give a 'proper' full-tang, 4-5" bladed, survival knife (like Woodlore or SBT) might be a bit much for such a small blade. It could be carried as a back-up to a primary blade and I like the Fjellman for pretty much everything except battoning and hammering into a tree and standing on (as Mors would probably want to do). Because of its versatility, size and weight, this is the one that lives in my go-bag. It's size makes it much more practical for the vast majority of tasks and you're less likely to scare the neighbours with it.
Thanks for the tips on stiffening up the sheath Seagull.
I dont mind if it darkens the leather as it is quite a light colour as it is, so win, win situation by the look of it, just hope I dont fudge it up.
Is there a link with a bit more detail on the proceedure on here anywhere that you know of.
just to answer a couple of questions: How much wax will I need, how to heat it safely, etc etc.
I dont mind if it darkens the leather as it is quite a light colour as it is, so win, win situation by the look of it, just hope I dont fudge it up.
Is there a link with a bit more detail on the proceedure on here anywhere that you know of.
just to answer a couple of questions: How much wax will I need, how to heat it safely, etc etc.
well, I just ordered one, along with my first mora!! I will post a full fledged review of it as soon as i get it! By the way, how does one do a review on this site, as im kind of new hear??
Hey it just came in the mail!!!! I love it! I am now the proud parent of a mora #1 and a helle fjelkniv! So far, I love the weight and size of the handle!
Congratulations
You will now become an Honourary member of the Bald Forearm Club, the Institute of the Shavings Clogged Hoover, and the Elastoplast of Choice Brigade
Enjoy !
cheers,
Toddy
You will now become an Honourary member of the Bald Forearm Club, the Institute of the Shavings Clogged Hoover, and the Elastoplast of Choice Brigade
Enjoy !
cheers,
Toddy
Thanks for the tips on stiffening up the sheath Seagull.
I dont mind if it darkens the leather as it is quite a light colour as it is, so win, win situation by the look of it, just hope I dont fudge it up.
Is there a link with a bit more detail on the proceedure on here anywhere that you know of.
just to answer a couple of questions: How much wax will I need, how to heat it safely, etc etc.
Sorry fellah, I have been away.
All I can do, is to tell you what I do, but there are better ways, have a butchers at Erics posts.
Nick one pan that wont be missed; something as near in radius ,as your sheath length.
Have a hunt around for a commercial beekeeper and get some bulk blocks of pure wax and , at the present"going price " of wax, you will need about £7 worth...it is dear but you can use it overagain.
While melting yer wax over a gentle heat, you can be warming up the leather with a hair dryer.
When the wax has justmelted, you whoosh your item through it , covering it completely, (inside and out, for the full dip).but try to keep the item away from the bottom of the pan........sure you will get some uneveness and blotches, but you even those out by use of the hairdryer.
Also, watch out for "slightly warm" fingers......and use plenty of newspaper on your worktops.
But! for just the "wax'n melt", all you need is one very small block of wax about one third the size of your palm and an inch deep ; which you melt in anything, even a clean bean tin......heat up the leather with a hairdryer, then use an old natural bristle brush to daub the wax over the surface of the item........(plenty of paper to cover worktops.)...now, when covered it will look hideously blotchy, but you just waft it over with the hairdryer again and again, watching out for drips all over the kitchen floor...
Unless you want to be a pro, then you best have at hand, a few ramekins in which to pour the unused wax '''and youll have a nice block to use whenever you want.
And, when cooled, you just bung em in the deep freeze for a half hour and this makes it dead easy to remove;
Hope its been of help
Ceeg
Quick update.
I managed to get some shed-time this weekend, so I hgad a go at hot waxing a couple of sheaths. Being a bit catious I started of with a Brusletto Balder sheath. Once you star it seems you have to keep going. The result looked pretty awful to begin with, but after a bit of brushing/heating/brushing/heating it all fell into place and didn't look too bad, so I put the knife in and set it aside to cool.
I then repeated the above with my Helle Eggen sheath. This one seemed to go much better, taking the wax more evenly.
I now have 2 knife sheaths that are much darker, stiffer and altogether safer in the way they hold the knife without flexing.
Knire retention is much improved too, in fact the only problem I had was getting the little Balder out of the sheath after cooling, because the wax had stuck it in as it hardened! Great car was needed to free this little 1 1/2" razor!
Thanks for the tips guys.
Dave
I managed to get some shed-time this weekend, so I hgad a go at hot waxing a couple of sheaths. Being a bit catious I started of with a Brusletto Balder sheath. Once you star it seems you have to keep going. The result looked pretty awful to begin with, but after a bit of brushing/heating/brushing/heating it all fell into place and didn't look too bad, so I put the knife in and set it aside to cool.
I then repeated the above with my Helle Eggen sheath. This one seemed to go much better, taking the wax more evenly.
I now have 2 knife sheaths that are much darker, stiffer and altogether safer in the way they hold the knife without flexing.
Knire retention is much improved too, in fact the only problem I had was getting the little Balder out of the sheath after cooling, because the wax had stuck it in as it hardened! Great car was needed to free this little 1 1/2" razor!
Thanks for the tips guys.
Dave
Martini Dave, the ultra-tight fit,will eventually ease due to use, but you can hurry things along a bit, just by wafting it warm, with the hairdryer and rewiping the inner surface with a non-fluffy wipecloth...then just re-form that bit, while still hot.
With the full dip, I've found, (if you like its effect) that you can easily impart a blindingly shiny finish, just by buffing the nearly dry surface ,with the side of a blunt bladed butterknife.
Ceeg
With the full dip, I've found, (if you like its effect) that you can easily impart a blindingly shiny finish, just by buffing the nearly dry surface ,with the side of a blunt bladed butterknife.
Ceeg