Hey I was wondering if anyone had any experience with the helle brand of knives, I was in particular looking at the fjelkniv. Any comments on it? Thanks a ton!!
Anyone have experience with Helle knives?
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I have a Helle Polar and a Helle Troll.
I like them both, good knives and excellent service from Helle when I did have a problem.
They keep a good edge, and seem to survive my damp garden and woodland work without rusting. Not as heavy as some, not a bad thing that in many ways, and comfortable to use.
Decent working kit.
cheers,
Toddy
I like them both, good knives and excellent service from Helle when I did have a problem.
They keep a good edge, and seem to survive my damp garden and woodland work without rusting. Not as heavy as some, not a bad thing that in many ways, and comfortable to use.
Decent working kit.
cheers,
Toddy
May I ask, what was the problem? And do you think that they could stand up to normal camp chores like splitting wood (with a baton)?
I wouldn't batton them because of the rather thin hidden tang.
I have a Helle Harding and it's been great so far. It doens't cast sparks though.
Very nice knife, but have an axe with you if this is your only knife
I have a Helle Harding and it's been great so far. It doens't cast sparks though.
Very nice knife, but have an axe with you if this is your only knife
My first Helle Polar delaminated when I was cutting tree ties.
No one here or on BB had ever seen this happen before.Helle could not have been more helpful. No dispute, no hassle and I had a replacement in my hand in less than a week.
I use the knives for everything from preparing hides to carving to battoning to split timbers and have never had a problem. Just beware tree ties
Remember a tanged blade is not a weak blade and it is perfectly capable of performing all the usual camp or bushcraft tasks.
cheers,
Toddy
I have heard that a finger guard is bad for bushcraft, would the guard on the fjelkniv be bad, I would say its more of a comfort thing, but will it interfere with anything?
Oh that's big one, and contentious for some reason.
This is a link to the fjelkniven
http://www.heinnie.com/Knives/Helle/Helle-Fjellkniven/p-92-150-1123/
usual disclaimers, no connections with the company, etc.
To be blunt, the best knife at the time you need one, is the one you have. If you become comfortable and capable using one with a guard, then that's the knife you use and you learn to use it with all it's abilities or restrictions.
There's a lot of machismo talked about guards, big boys don't need them kind of thing , but that's mince. Some people disdain them, others think that's ridiculous posturing .
Personally I have no issues, but then the knife I used for many years had one and I thought it a good thing, it save my hand from a lot of skelfs.
Yet my present knife doesn't have one and I don't miss it.
It never got in my way when I wanted to use my knife but others may (make that will ) disagree.
Must be someone on the forum who actually has this knife.
cheers,
Toddy
This is a link to the fjelkniven
http://www.heinnie.com/Knives/Helle/Helle-Fjellkniven/p-92-150-1123/
usual disclaimers, no connections with the company, etc.
To be blunt, the best knife at the time you need one, is the one you have. If you become comfortable and capable using one with a guard, then that's the knife you use and you learn to use it with all it's abilities or restrictions.
There's a lot of machismo talked about guards, big boys don't need them kind of thing
, but that's mince. Some people disdain them, others think that's ridiculous posturing .Personally I have no issues, but then the knife I used for many years had one and I thought it a good thing, it save my hand from a lot of skelfs.
Yet my present knife doesn't have one and I don't miss it.
It never got in my way when I wanted to use my knife but others may (make that will
) disagree.Must be someone on the forum who actually has this knife.
cheers,
Toddy
I have the Eggen http://www.heinnie.com/Knives/Helle/Helle-Helle-Eggen/p-92-150-1120/ and it does all I need admirably. As mentioned not the best sparks in the world but with the right technique you can still get enough sparks especially if you're using charcloth which is easy. Very sharp.
I also have an Eggen, in fact I've been using it just this morning.
I think it is a good knife, it doesn't cast great sparks using a firesteel, unless you use the very tip of the spine, on the bevel. It is a lot lighter knife than my Woodlore, but seems perfectly adequate for most uses. I would secon the comment about battoning, I have seen a couple of Helles develop loose handles during the duration of a week long bushcraft course. I do think the Eggen's sheath could do with being a bit more robust, but used with care has not been a real problem.
Dave
I think it is a good knife, it doesn't cast great sparks using a firesteel, unless you use the very tip of the spine, on the bevel. It is a lot lighter knife than my Woodlore, but seems perfectly adequate for most uses. I would secon the comment about battoning, I have seen a couple of Helles develop loose handles during the duration of a week long bushcraft course. I do think the Eggen's sheath could do with being a bit more robust, but used with care has not been a real problem.
Dave
Apoll's for interjectingI also have an Eggen, in fact I've been using it just this morning.
I do think the Eggen's sheath could do with being a bit more robust, but used with care has not been a real problem.
Dave
Dave, I've found that the full "hot dip"in beeswax, will solve that problem.
Just ensure you're pretty quick in tippping out the excess of what went inside!
Ceeg
I too have a Helle Eggen and I think it is a great knife, really holds an edge, nice size, very comfortable in the hand even after prolonged carving / use.
Thanks for the tip on making the sheath a bit stiffer, I will give that a go. What if I blocked the top, or does it need to be dipped / soaked inside and out, would it be OK just doing the outside?
In answer to your question of "So do I get one" my answer would be yes, especially at the price you can get them.
Thanks for the tip on making the sheath a bit stiffer, I will give that a go. What if I blocked the top, or does it need to be dipped / soaked inside and out, would it be OK just doing the outside?
In answer to your question of "So do I get one" my answer would be yes, especially at the price you can get them.
I have a Harding. Very pleased. Holds a good edge for a suprisingly long time (compared to Mora). I baton it through wrist thich billets of wood with no problems of chipping the blade or anything. Nice sheath too. Only gripe is that it doesn't cast sparks; but then again I prefer to use a dedicated striker with my firesteel. If I lose mine I'll buy another.
I have a Lapplandskniven. I'ts a fantastic camp knife. Baton's, whittles, carves (meat and Wood) great feather sticks and it cast's sparks. It complements my Lupo just fine. Infact, it is competing with my Cegga for the 'Large item' place in my Bergan. It's my only experience with Helle, but if it's anything to go by, They are good!
I have a Jegermester - great all round camp knife. It's done everything I have asked of it without complaint - even throws good sparks from a firesteel.
I only have 2 knives and the other is a Frost Clipper.
Dr O
I only have 2 knives and the other is a Frost Clipper.
Dr O
Inwood, you get the full effect of stiffening-up, only if you do a full dip, inside and out.And I mean as in "wood like"
But an exterior hot dip will give more stiffening than the "wax'n'melt" which is applied with a brush, then hot-hairdryered.
Ceeg
But as I said, with the full dip you really must ensure that you "tip out" the excess, sharpish; or you'll find you can't get the knife back inside.....moreso if its a very new sheath and tight fitting anyway, in which case I would go for the external hotdip and give it some wear/use, before graduating to the full thing.
.
Please be aware that all the hotwax techniques will result in a significant darkening of the original leather.
But an exterior hot dip will give more stiffening than the "wax'n'melt" which is applied with a brush, then hot-hairdryered.
Ceeg
But as I said, with the full dip you really must ensure that you "tip out" the excess, sharpish; or you'll find you can't get the knife back inside.....moreso if its a very new sheath and tight fitting anyway, in which case I would go for the external hotdip and give it some wear/use, before graduating to the full thing.
.
Please be aware that all the hotwax techniques will result in a significant darkening of the original leather.
I have a Helle Futura and have had it years, 3 layer blade very sharp and easy to keep sharp, very well made knife, the only problem I had was the sheath, I made my own to overcome this and in fact I keep on going back to use it over most of my other knives. I have done all my carving with it and I find it light and well balanced to use for most tasks, I always cary an axe so I dont really use it for battoning. For the money I think they are good knives and you can't go wrong with most of the range.
