Another Kukri.

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Ogri the trog

Mod
Mod
Apr 29, 2005
7,182
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Mid Wales UK
Kukri Project

Copied from British Blades…..

The creation of this thread is my side of a bargain I struck with Rob RCS in return for a kukri sent free of financial cost to myself.
For a long time I had been an advocate of big knife = wrong, without really understanding the implications of my blinkered view. A few months ago I tried to cheapskate my way around this by making a huge cudgel of a thing loosely based on a Tom Brown Tracker – the resulting behemoth coming in at near two pounds in weight and about as much use in cutting as a crow bar. So, to try to redress this unbalanced view of large knives, I thought to take the kukri track – them not being too prohibitively expensive and widely known because of their Ghurkha owners and distinctive profile. What I hadn’t bargained upon was loosing my job in October which kind of put a block on any potential purchases – until my deal on here came up trumps as mentioned in the opening line.
I’m sure I won’t be the only person on this forum to have seen Dave Canterbury’s Pathfinder website and forum and the development of his Pathfinder knife with huge kukri overtones. I had an idea that I could modify something along similar lines that would become a compliment to my existing Bushcraft set-up of home-made Woody clone knife, folding saw and axe.

Some of the things I had thought about changing were as follows:-
Handle – Rubber grips to aid wet weather use and maybe a total redesign.

Blade - Multi profile edge for multiple uses along the blade length.

Sheath – Material and layout. Locking mechanism for blade?
Mountable on shoulder strap of rucksack?, Blade to remain secure when inverted.
Horizontal carry, Flat or Scout style.

The item that turned up in the post is stunning, good quality, solid and strong. The sheath was missing a belt loop but otherwise complete. There seems to be two Kharda instead of one and a Chakmak, both items are near identical and both have a profiled edges. There is a small space in the side of the sheath which I have filled with a fire-steel.
As for first jobs, I treated the sheath with Neatsfoot oil and polish and sprayed WD40 into the inner surface to soak into the wood and augment corrosion resistance. I have stripped the varnished finish off the handle and oiled the wood and I’m much happier with the feel in the hand, though it might yet prove to be too smooth and need a rougher finish to keep it secure in the hand.
I have also lengthened the cutting edge by gentle grinding inside the inner curve back towards the handle. This has resulted in about 3 extra inches of useable cutting edge that can be used for chopping close to the handle, or more importantly as a draw knife with the non-knife hand holding the blade towards the tip.

Let’s start with what I found to be right about the Ghurkha Kukri.
Well for starters, it has been around for a hundred years or more in much the same as its present guise and that alone implies that there can’t be a huge amount wrong with the basic design. It is without doubt, that the geometry and weight forward design combine to give this versatile tool its advantages, handling in part like an axe for chopping but with an edge that promotes a slicing motion there are probably few improvements that can be made other than minor tweaks and different materials.
One thing I owed the designers of such an impressive tool was to get used to the way it behaved before thinking about what improvements I could make on a personal level. The double opposed conical handle with raised centre collar looks a lot more uncomfortable than it is in actuality. I think it leads to a very secure grip, encouraging each finger to perform a recognisable function in contributing to the overall grip. Little and third fingers secure the grip against the heavy blade moving forwards – which was my initial concern with such a heavy thing. The collar locks between middle & third fingers, providing a surprisingly effective solid hold. Index and middle fingers close around the reversed cone at the front of the handle and give very accurate aim and guidance to the blade in motion. Furthermore, the handle can be displaced forward by one or two fingers with no loss of that secure feeling and gaining up to extra two inches in effective length when swinging the knife lekku style.

While I cannot claim to have used this blade heavily, I have tried some fire wood chopping & splitting, some clearing of vegetation and branches and such. At each point I tried to imagine how my perceived improvements would affect the handling or aesthetics of the knife…. Sad to say that at every stage my ideas were blown out of the water; handle mods, sheath mods, anything to do with handling, carrying or any extras; its all perfect just as it is. I feel such a fraud now after blagging it for free, but its going to take much more skilled blade-smith than I to make any significant improvement over the original equipment.

So what can I do to improve it?
The mods I want to consider are in fitting “it” to my hand and something around the sheath, hence my thoughts earlier.

The Sheath is covered in supposed goat skin (though it could well be buffalo hide depending upon the source you read). It is acceptably strong for its intended task, but missing any form of belt loop, though this was soon remedied after a trip to a charity shop and the purchase of a second hand leather belt and a short time cutting and stitching.
As for the various methods of carrying the sheath, once again the original shines through as the tried and tested best. If I was to try to carry it Scout style (horizontal across the small of the back) it would have to be with the handle down – which drops the knife into the “locked” position in the scabbard, but a jolt might loosen the blade and have it shaking loose and falling down the back of your leg. To carry it edge up would go all against the advice of not clasping the scabbard to withdraw the edge – risking it cutting through the sheath and endangering the holding fingers. The advised method of “side” or “rear” carry means that the sheath is naturally supported by the non-knife hand, around the spine of the blade – keeping things just about as safe as they can be.

Sharpening might take a little practice, I’ve tried a few options with varying success, but I think I’ll stick with simple ceramic stones which give a pleasing finish when used free-hand then do a final polish on a leather strop, though it really isn’t necessary.

In closing, and I am aware that I haven’t handled many large knives, but this kukri is about as good as a large knife gets for the tasks that I have so far put in front of it.
I have to extend my deepest thanks for the offers of kindness when I posted my original query and to Rob RCS in particular, who deserves medals for his benevolence.

Now some quick piccies….
Within a few days of arrival, with a very temporary belt loop and the firesteel.
IMG_2926.jpg


One to show the curious alignment of cutting edge and handle compared to a Cegga axe.
IMG_1652.jpg


And as it appears most recently with a belt loop created from a recycled leather belt.
IMG_2996.jpg


All the best

Ogri the trog
 

DavidEnoch

Member
Feb 22, 2007
36
0
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Dallas, Texas USA
That is a nice looking Kukri you have there. I have an 18" Kukri and it chops and cuts very well. My 12" had the same blade thinkness and taper and edge grind and this just doesn't work for me. The 18" has additional weight and blade speed that makes it work. The 12" will bounce instead of bite like the bigger knife. The handle on my 12" isn't very long. It is a tight fit to get my hand on the grip. If I stretch out my grip and snap the blade forward the rear of the handle digs into my hand. That is why I am going to change the handle on this one.

You mentioned Dave Canterbury and his knife. His new knife sure looks like a Khukri to me. Another site which talks about modding a Khukri is www.
M4040.com. Here is a link to the article:
http://www.m4040.com/Survival/Ghurka/Khukri%20Modification.htm
I pretty much copied what he did with my 18" except for not sharpening the back side of the blade tip. I didn't like that since I like to use the knife as a draw knife a lot. I also made my sheath differently. You should also check out his survival kit. It's pretty good.

My 18" Khukri didn't come with a sheath so I just started from scratch. My 12" has a wooden sheath wrapped with thin leather. I think I will make a leather sheath for this one and make the sheath big enough the knife will just about drop in the sheath and come out without also holding the sheath.

I am hoping to make the 12"er into a large bush knife. The 18" works well but is a lot heavier. I think when I get the bevels figured out on the 12" it will work great. I have reworked some small hatchets that had too steep a bevel and they became good choppers. I hope the 12" Khukri works out as well.

Good luck with your project,

David Enoch
 

JohnC

Full Member
Jun 28, 2005
2,624
82
62
Edinburgh
That pic of the comparison of the edges of axe and kuk is interesting, I'd never reallly appreciated it before..
 

Ogri the trog

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Mod
Apr 29, 2005
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Mid Wales UK
That pic of the comparison of the edges of axe and kuk is interesting, I'd never reallly appreciated it before..

John, when trying to split sticks for the house fire, I gravitated towards the inner curve of the blade. But when doing heavier hacking, the impact point moves forward and I just wondered how it compared to my Cegga - unsuprisingly they match pretty well don't they.

ATB

Ogri the trog
 

ForgeCorvus

Nomad
Oct 27, 2007
425
1
52
norfolk
Sorry to dig this out of the graveyard, but I didn't see the point in starting a new thread.
I recently found a Kukri blade at a car-boot and invested a whole 50 p in securing it

Its got a 13 inch blade with a 3 inch stub tang and weights in (with a temporary handle) at 1lb 4 oz. Its got quite a heavy hollow-grind just below the back and two parallel very narrow fullers on each side of the forte

I've cleaned off and treated the rust (looking at it now I can see that I might have to redo some bits) and gave the existing blade profile a rough sharpen & hone (you'll see why it was just a quick job soon), the steel has a fairly hard temper as I can just about get a file to mark it but it eats hacksaw blades

Now the question is the profile seems to change along the blade, starting at the notch (just what is that for BTW ?) it goes semi-hollow, flat at a sharp angle, flat at a steep angle, convex and right at the point very convex

Now it seems to me that its a very useful tool like this, but is that the way its supposed to be or have I got one thats been altered (I can cleave a 1 1/4 inch thick semi-seasoned branch with it, split it into quarters and then shave a piece into a featherstick, something I would normally need an axe or bill and a knife for)

Second question, I'm not sure how sturdy a stub tang will be and I'm toying with the idea of welding some bar (possibly studding) to the end of the tang to convert it to a rod tang (if I do I'll use the water-bath trick to keep the existing temper)

If I go with the rod tang I'll probably get my brother to turn a 'traditional' handle for me, can any owners post or send a pattern ? (likely to be boring beech, or maybe oak)

Thanks for looking

EDIT, I'll try and post some pics when my SOP brings my camera back
 

pwb

Full Member
If I go with the rod tang I'll probably get my brother to turn a 'traditional' handle for me, can any owners post or send a pattern ? (likely to be boring beech, or maybe oak)

Hi ForgeCorvus.
I've got this old handle left over after re handling a Kukri, it's badly cracked but would give you a good pattern to work from.

DSC01974Small.jpg


If you think it might help PM me you address and I'll send it on.

Cheers, Pete.
 
May 25, 2006
504
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Canada
www.freewebs.com
Now the question is the profile seems to change along the blade, starting at the notch (just what is that for BTW ?)

I can't remember the name of it, but what I understand is it is function, plus ceremony.

1) It represents the Trident of Shiva (sp?), being the three pronged weapon of the deity, whom is important to the Ghurka people.

2) Chopping through wet materials such as liquid filled vines, cutting cattails, etc, or when chopping through an animal (sounds a bit severe, but remember this was a weapon as much as a tool), or butchering it, the notch will stop any run off of fluid from moving from the blade to the handle, removing the chance of slippage.

Now what was it called.. Chakra? No.. that sounds wrong.. :confused:
 

Ogri the trog

Mod
Mod
Apr 29, 2005
7,182
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Mid Wales UK
Hi FC,
Yup, its entirely normal for the edge to consist of differing grinds throughout the length of the blade, so that a number of tasks can be undertaken with the one tool. However if you can't mark it with a file I would be a little concerned that it would be somewhat brittle for a good chopping tool - heck if it only cost 50p you can afford a little experimentation surely.
The reasons for the cut-out, vary from purely decorative through to practical and on to downright bloodthirsty and some sources mention that if the blade does not have the correct cut-out, its not a Khukri at all, just a bent knife!
Oz - I've also heard the cut-out refered to as the footprint of a sacred cow - who knows the truth behind it!

ATB

Ogri the trog
 

ForgeCorvus

Nomad
Oct 27, 2007
425
1
52
norfolk
Ogri, I said I can just mark it with a file, ie I can get the teeth to bite but not very deeply (my axe is softer...slightly ) but it will knock the teeth off a hacksaw blade no probs

I did think that nothing was going to get me away from my Kentish, but now I'm not so sure.

Its looking like if you can only have one edge in the woods, I'd choose a Kuk*

Now to make the two little friends



* Give me two though, and it would be my Kentish half axe and a number 8 Opi
 

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