Enzo Trapper for my money too. I would get the blade for well under your budget and either get someone to handle it for me or do it myself If I had the tools and inclination.
Affordable first full-tang knife?
- Thread starter Hootch
- Start date
-
Hey Guest, Early bird pricing on the Summer Moot (29th July - 10th August) available until April 6th, we'd love you to come. PLEASE CLICK HERE to early bird price and get more information.
Would you be happy to assemble your own knife from a kit?
Brisa in Finland have some great kits, from Same style knives over the finnish puukkos to a more modern styled knifes.
Great prices too.
( I have no affiliation with Brisa, I am just a happy customer)
Brisa in Finland have some great kits, from Same style knives over the finnish puukkos to a more modern styled knifes.
Great prices too.
( I have no affiliation with Brisa, I am just a happy customer)
Thank you all, Ferret75 in particular who has just sorted me out with a Condor! Amazing! Thanks so much! A lot of valuable advice and experience here upon which I will ruminate. And good idea to assemble something, maybe a Trapper - this is something I'll definitely consider once I've gained some experience. What really impresses me is the sense of community in this forum. Not all forums are alike and this one really stands out - people willing to share skills, experience and even kit (thanks again Ferret75!) in times when community is an endangered species. Best wishes to you all.
Last edited:
The condor is tempered to a very low RC somewhere in the very low 50's which means it's easy to sharpen but loses its edge quickly..I have two and no longer use them because of this. Go for the jakaaripuukko from varusteleka.
Ha some wise info here! Thank You.
Condor...made in El Salvador......
BLADES are made from 420 HC Stainless Steel or 1075 High Carbon Steel and are heat treated and annealed to about 50-55 Rockwell C. Every edge is hand finished and polished to razor sharpness
Better go for a Scandinavian knife.
Rockwell 59
1.Morakniv
2. Varestuleka puukko
All made in Sweden or Scandinavia
FYI, Finland is not in Scandinavia, but it is a Nordic country.
A soft edge blunts quickly but sharpens quickly.
A soft edge blunts quickly but sharpens quickly.
Some of the very modern high end steels that are found on high end knives can be done both hard and tough. Very hard and they wear slowly when cutting abrasive substances like cardboard that has all sorts of rubbish in it. However, without toughness then impacting on hard objects with force or given prying lateral stresses and they tend to chip or snap. Any steel that is kept very keen and hits something stupid hard will take damage. So there are compromises to be made. Hard steels when they do take damage require hard sharpening grits like diamond to remove metal, or just a lot of time on softer wet stones. Milder tempered steels are easier to remove metal when sharpening, but wear faster. Softer steels edges roll faster though the blades are less likely to snap. Sadly, whatever is promised it really comes down to the luck in the blade if survives your use.
Exactly what is best, or what compromises have been made, and what results are found produces endless fire side discussion. Its the combination of steel, heat treatment and grinds and how its all been put together that give endless results... and how any user uses it. How hard, how tough, how strong, how keen it all can be kept, and what it takes to keep it working sharp? Plus how much luck is built into that blade. Occasionally a knife has no luck at all. Heck, if you lose it then no luck at all, though if someone finds it they might feel lucky.
Anyhow, as a good compromise knife the Terava's have my vote. From having having one then the quest for "something even better" can be taken. Better to get out there and practice your bushcraft skills with something half decent than have no tool at all from indecision and lack of finance to buy the sexiest light sabre that promises the earth. The Terava's are more than half decent. It won't be the last knife you buy.
Remember to budget for some sharpening kit. The Spyderco Sharpmaker ares good. The DMT red/green Diafold another good one too, and what I take into the field. Then there are loads of "system" sharpeners to be had. Paste and honing to be done too. I don't use, but others love, Japanese Waterstones. I do like Arkansas stones. Loads of ways to do it on the bench, even wet and dry sand paper as used for car bodywork.. I don't like the rip carbide systems though as they get through blade steel fast and leave a fragile edge. Really doesn't matter so long as the edge can be kept sharp and the grind kept keen. Steel or strop ten times for every full sharpen, little and often. Just budget for some choice sharpening kit.
Exactly what is best, or what compromises have been made, and what results are found produces endless fire side discussion. Its the combination of steel, heat treatment and grinds and how its all been put together that give endless results... and how any user uses it. How hard, how tough, how strong, how keen it all can be kept, and what it takes to keep it working sharp? Plus how much luck is built into that blade. Occasionally a knife has no luck at all. Heck, if you lose it then no luck at all, though if someone finds it they might feel lucky.
Anyhow, as a good compromise knife the Terava's have my vote. From having having one then the quest for "something even better" can be taken. Better to get out there and practice your bushcraft skills with something half decent than have no tool at all from indecision and lack of finance to buy the sexiest light sabre that promises the earth. The Terava's are more than half decent. It won't be the last knife you buy.
Remember to budget for some sharpening kit. The Spyderco Sharpmaker ares good. The DMT red/green Diafold another good one too, and what I take into the field. Then there are loads of "system" sharpeners to be had. Paste and honing to be done too. I don't use, but others love, Japanese Waterstones. I do like Arkansas stones. Loads of ways to do it on the bench, even wet and dry sand paper as used for car bodywork.. I don't like the rip carbide systems though as they get through blade steel fast and leave a fragile edge. Really doesn't matter so long as the edge can be kept sharp and the grind kept keen. Steel or strop ten times for every full sharpen, little and often. Just budget for some choice sharpening kit.
Last edited:
Thanks for the superb advice, I definitely came to the right place. As a few of you have mentioned, I need to actually start using a knife (beyond what I already do with my Opinel) in order to find out what my needs really are. Which I guess was the reason for the original post really - to find a starter knife within my budget, one I can learn with without worrying that I've sunk my life savings into it. Thanks to Ferret75 there's a Bushlore on its way with which I can make a start. That's really what I needed: a starting place without a hefty price tag. I'm very interested to learn more about the types of steels and grinds - and thanks for the tip on looking at sharpening kit, it's not something I'd given much thought to to be honest - see, it would be madness for me to spend £££ on a knife! I'll definitely mull over the suggestions here, thanks.
(By the way Ferret75, I tried messaging you today but your in box is full!)
(By the way Ferret75, I tried messaging you today but your in box is full!)
Think you will do fine.
Having the best blade light sabre doesn't give you skill. Its doing the work, learning as you go, that builds the knowledge. Why we are all learning and makes it interesting.
I'm afraid you will have to invest in some sharpening kit. Multi grit pack of wet and dry sand paper is the cheapest start up way. Loads of ways to do it. However, great the blade its only any good for a day or two before it needs some maintenance to keep it in in tip top condition. There are no quick ways to do it well as it requires taking metal away slowly so not to alter the temper of the blade. Its not difficult either just requires application, a little precision, and time. Loads of advice out there. The right angle is one that gets the cutting job done and lasts a sensible amount of time. Practice makes perfect.
Having the best blade light sabre doesn't give you skill. Its doing the work, learning as you go, that builds the knowledge. Why we are all learning and makes it interesting.
I'm afraid you will have to invest in some sharpening kit. Multi grit pack of wet and dry sand paper is the cheapest start up way. Loads of ways to do it. However, great the blade its only any good for a day or two before it needs some maintenance to keep it in in tip top condition. There are no quick ways to do it well as it requires taking metal away slowly so not to alter the temper of the blade. Its not difficult either just requires application, a little precision, and time. Loads of advice out there. The right angle is one that gets the cutting job done and lasts a sensible amount of time. Practice makes perfect.
I have a condor That has olive scales that I'd be willing to sell for £45 if your interested In a good buy?
