Advice on sharpening an axe

[JohnB]

Link to a previous post of mine about GB axe stone

http://www.bushcraftuk.co.uk/community/viewtopic.php?t=1404

I use the stone dry for touching up an edge, but wet for sharpening proper. The stone does clog more quickly dry.

A GB axe stone is the only sharpener I carry with me and use it for my knife as well as axe when out.

IMO GB axe stones are excellent, if pricey, these being about the cheapest I found

http://www.tamarackoutdoors.co.uk/

Actually a very nice little shop if you're in the area.

 

[jason01]

I like to use a set of three japanese waterstones for most of my sharpening. Chisels and plane irons and of course knives need a razor edge to work well but I'm not sure a razor edge is neccesary or even all that useful on an axe?

I dont think axes are usually as hard as knives (they would chip too easily) combined with the kind of use they are designed for I wouldnt think a razor edge would last very long. Being thick bladed and wedge shaped axes wont take a razor edge like a thin bladed knife anyway will they?

To sharpen a heavy axe head I sometimes find it easier to clamp the head and then hold the stone in your hand, if you rock the stone in a seesaw type of motion bringing the back of the stone down as you push the stone over the edge of the axe you'll keep the convex bevel, easier to demonstrate than explain!

At the end of the day if you really wanna hone your axe then go for it

Jason

 

[jason01]

Any stones Ive tried dry felt horrible, but Ive only used oil and waterstones none of the high tech stuff.

I almost exclusively use my three waterstones these days 800/1200/3000 and my understanding is that the waterstones work best when a muddy slurry has formed on the stone, this fine slurry acts as a cutting paste and the stone is not working correctly unless you have the slurry going on. The 3000 grit stone is the exception, it is too hard to produce a slurry and is only for polishing similar to a strop.

Jason

 

[steve a]

I use waterstones for my sharpening in 800/1200/6000 as said before the slurry formed speeds up the process but I form a slurry on the 6000 stone with a small nagura stone which is supplied for the job. Then strop a couple of hundred times to maintain a keen durable edge. My axes are as sharp as my knife, maybe the axes don't need to be that sharp but it's the way I like them to be.

 

[jason01]

Hi Steve

Im curious, I dont use an axe that often though Ive spent plenty of time splitting logs with heavier axes years ago, do you not find that having such a fine edge on your axe makes it more susceptibe to damage on anything but softest green wood?

My harder stone could be a 6000, its a good few years old and Ive no idea what grade it is really, I can still make out the numbers on the softer two, didnt realise you were sposed to create a slurry on the hard stone, I'll have to see about getting a nagura stone!

Cheers

Jason

 

[jason01]

Ive just read the article on Gransfors Bruks axes at outdoors magazine, it seems that they have a knife hard blade of very thin section, quite unlike what Im used to in an axe, sounds interesting I might have to get one!

I still wonder how tough such a thin edge can be tho, seems like a compromise to allow finer work to be carried out?

Jason

 

[Leon]

Hi Jason,
I have one of the Wilkinson Sword/ Fiskars sports axes, medium size (inch or two shorter than a GB SFA I think).
It came with a reasonable edge on it which turned into an absolute scorcher with a couple of passes on a 1200 grit watersone...shaving hairs and slicing paper as well as my knives.
I too was aprehensive about an edge like this lasting but it has astounded me. Whilst I haven't used it for really heavy and prolonged splitting, I have split and carved oak with it, hitting Knots and chopping straight against the grain and heavily hacked some knarled old piece of very tough elder stump into a fireboard (and other similar timbers) without the slightest nick or turned edge. (Ido strop it regularly)
I can only imagine in all comes down to (as well as good steel and heat treat) the steep angle on the edge relative to your average knife...plenty of steel to back it up.
I can confirm that it's damned useless at cutting through steel nails though :rollhas a great talent for finding them, however).
Last weekend's piece of carelessness cost me an hour and a half with the waterstones (800, 1200, strop) but the edge is shaving hairs and slicing elder as good as ever.

 

[SquirrelBoy]

On one of Rays Country Tracks programs he shows how sharp he keeps his axe blades - sharp enough to slice a corner off a piece of paper.

That is sharp :shock: