A Wet Weekend In - Making a QRP Radio!

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Mikey P

Full Member
Nov 22, 2003
2,257
12
53
Glasgow, Scotland
One for the Amateur Radio guys, especially QRP (low power), but I'll explain any tech terms for those who are interested. It doesn't seem very bushcrafty at first but read on...

If you have no interest in mobile communications or amateur radio, stop now as this is going to bore the pants off you.

Well, I got rained out of the hills the other day - exceptionally wet, consistent downpours and increasing risk of hazardous solo stream-crossings turned me back after one night as I really wasn't enjoying it anymore. Frankly, having had a gut-full of military exercises in the wet and cold, I try to avoid it now unless I have to. With no sign of the weather improving, I sacked it and went home to dry my kit and think of something else to do.

I ordered a Rockmite 20 transceiver kit a while back and it's been sat in a draw waiting for just such an occasion. The Rockmite is a QRP CW transceiver available through http://www.smallwonderlab.com. With the connector pack, I think I paid about £30 in all and the service was exceptionally good.

QRP is amateur radio-speak for very low power. I'm not sure what the exact definition is but I guess it's anything pushing out less than about 5 watts transmit power. A transceiver means it transmits and receives. CW means it's morse code only (ie, no voice comms). And the '20' means it works in the 20 meter band - the transmit frequency is 14060 kHz, which is the popular QRP frequency in that amateur band. There are Rockmite 40s and 80s too but I chose the '20' as it means it will have the smallest antenna. Why is that important?

Well, as well as wanting a nice little kit to build and a radio to practice my v slow, v poor morse on, I wanted something that was portable too so I could take it out with me and it would give me something to do in the evenings by the campfire, etc. So it had to be small, low power and with the smallest possible aerial. However, being in the HF bands, you can still get some good distance (across UK and overseas in good conditions). So, it's a compromise - HF band means bigger antenna but longer legs.

Anyway, the kit took me an afternoon to build, including my first ever surface mount device: woo-hoo! If you like building things, you'll know how satisfying it is. The instructions are very good but still leave you with a few decisions to make. The pictures below show the build in various phases. It's a small board and you need a steady hand!

Starting out
200wqvd.jpg


Helping hands
29fjw3.jpg


Lots of soldering
30lkydd.jpg


In the box
14mfn1s.jpg


Testing
2wrj77s.jpg


Ta-da!
1zd25pt.jpg


The next day, I plugged in a dummy load (looks like an antenna to the radio but doesn't transmit any signal - we use them for testing when we don't actually want to send out a signal) and ran through the test procedure. Everything looked OK and I managed to resolve a problem with the morse keying circuit by fitting an extra switch. This is the beauty of amateur radio - you can modify and adapt things to get what you want. I checked the oscillator (generates the correct transmission frequency) was working by placing the unit near another radio tuned to the oscillator frequency - a nice stable tone shows that everything is good.

So that I could make it a portable unit, I added an internal connection to run it from a 9V battery and a switch to select the battery or an external 12V DC source.

The whole lot fits in a metal water-resistant box 13 x 8.5 x 2.5cm. some people put them in even smaller boxes - there are pics on the web. To be honest, the hardest thing was mounting all of the connectors and soldering the link wires in a confined space so I think a bigger box was better for me. The board was mounted on M3 bolts to hold it steady.

I'm pretty pleased with the way it has all turned out and it looks neat and tidy in the small box. I had to get a BNC-to-SO239 adaptor (the connector to the antenna) as all of my other kit uses those.

The antenna has two 5 meter 'arms' of 0.9mm copper wire, with a co-ax feed cable soldered in the middle. The plan is to use bamboo canes or trees to support the aerial when portable, using a nylon cord to suspend the feed and insulators. The feeder cable is coiled 6 times before it connects to the antenna arms to prevent stray signals (acts a bit like a 1:1 balun). At the moment, it's connected between the house and garage for testing but I'll post pics of the portable arrangement soon.

Whilst 2 x 5 meter arms still sounds quite large when thinking about antennae, it would be twice the size for a Rockmite 40 and twice as long again for the Rockmite 80, assuming you were using a 1/2 wave dipole antenna.

You can use other antenna configurations along with an antenna tuner but I wanted to minimise the amount of kit I had to carry so I chose a resonant antenna with a good match to the radio (measured at 1.3:1 at the moment). Furthermore, with only about 500 milliWatts of power output, I wanted to make maximum use of the available power. I may play with other configs in the future (eg, 5/8 wave vertical on my fibreglass pole) but i'll stick with this one for now.

Anyway, on test, it all seems to work well through the antenna. The only thing holding me back at the moment is my really poor morse skills: I'm getting there! But, I could certainly hear other operators on the band, even with my antenna in a less than ideal location b the side of the house.

For those who use paddle keys instead of straight keys, you can adjust the dot speed using the mode button. The audio is via headphones and there is a volume control too. Pressing the mode switch briefly also reverses the transmit and receive frequencies (you need to have a small offset or you can't hear the other guy transmitting to you) so you sort of have two channels close together.

So, great little project and I look forward to getting it out there and trying to make some very slow contacts with a lot of morse mistakes! For anyone starting out in amateur radio who just doesn't want to chat on 2m VHF (which is ace by the way but short range), this is a great way of getting onto HF and a good reason to learn morse.

It's interesting as there seem to be a couple of different groups of bushcrafters: those who just go out for the sheer hell of it and those who use it as a means of getting to somewhere to indulge their other interests - eg, canoeists, photographers, radio guys, etc. A broad church indeed.
 

Doc

Need to contact Admin...
Nov 29, 2003
2,109
10
Perthshire
Well done, Mike.

Small Wonder kits are great. I built one of their SW40 kits (superhet, 2 watts or so, with a VFO so you're not 'rockbound'), used it, sold it, missed it. So I have another one waiting to be built. Plan is to build it in a box with integrated battery pack, ATU and solar panel on the top surface.

Half a watt can be hard going. But I have had contacts with stations running 100mW before.

A lot of people use dipoles when portable (often as an inverted vee) but I find the SWR varies with every setup. So I tend to use an atu plus long wire. End fed half waves are popular too.

The morse will come with time. A good plan is to lurk on 3.558MHZ - FISTS meeting frequency, just below the QRP watering hole. You get a lot of UK stations and the speeds are not crazy. Or you can join the Straight Key Century Club for nothing, and tee up a sked on the online reflector.
 

salan

Nomad
Jun 3, 2007
320
1
Cheshire
Great kit! I built the 'oner' many years ago and I am a member of the GQRP club.
Always liked low power. Lowest I have had a QSO on was 10 microwatts! lol good fun.
73 de G1GOP
 

Mikey P

Full Member
Nov 22, 2003
2,257
12
53
Glasgow, Scotland
Thanks guys!

Yeah, I think one of the SW kits is next up!

I'm listening a lot to the CW on 20m (on my general coverage receiver) but will try the FIST scheds too - thanks for that.

I like the idea of QRP and would rather have the opportunity to get out and about and perhaps make fewer QSOs rather than sit at home with 100W.

With the long wire set up, can you suggest what an optimum length of wire would be, assuming I use my ATU? Also, am interested in the idea of the end-fed 1/2 wave - surely impedance at the end of the wire is in the order of 1000s of Ohms?

Next step for me is to try and get hold of an FT817ND for home and as alternative portable use - anyone got one knocking about?!? ;)
 

Mikey P

Full Member
Nov 22, 2003
2,257
12
53
Glasgow, Scotland
can you just buy the final item? I'd mess up the innards!

You could either try eBay as they do appear every now and again, or get a mate who likes this sort of stuff to build it for you. The board itself is not difficult - I think mounting it in a box is more 'fiddley'!
 

Mikey P

Full Member
Nov 22, 2003
2,257
12
53
Glasgow, Scotland
Having done a bit of research, I would propose the following QRP antenna for discussion:

Insulated wire for antenna - 10.1m long (approx half-wave at 14.060MHz)
Insulated wire counterpoise - 10.1m long
1m insulated wire connected to short metal stake
ATU

So, the antenna would be an end-fed 1/2 wave on the band of interest and a long(ish)-wire for other bands such as 10m.

The counterpoise would be used for capacitive coupling to ground when the ground was dry or rocky.

The stake and lead would be used to make an earth lead where the ground was moist enough and you could get it in.

The ATU would be used to tune the antenna (obviously!).

This would take up little space in a backpack/day sack and should allow operation in remote sites.

What do folks reckon?
 

Doc

Need to contact Admin...
Nov 29, 2003
2,109
10
Perthshire
The end fed half wave EFHW is a bit of a can of worms - as you say it is very high impedance - too high for some ATUs. You can build/buy a matching unit: Parr make them, or QRP project sell a 'Fuchs antenna' kit http://www.qrpproject.de/UK/multifuchs.htm (probably cheaper to homebrew), or ideas here: http://pages.suddenlink.net/wa5bdu/efhw.htm

A lot of people argue an efhw needs no (or a very short) counterpoise. I don't think a counterpoise should be half a wavelength long. I personally wouldn't bother with ground stakes unless I was banging it into saltmarsh!

Couple of other points for portable antenna:

Verticals on the coast work brilliantly.
7m and 10m 'roach pole' fishing rods are cheap and make good supports for verticals or inverted vees.
The Clansman fibreglass guyed mast set is fairly cheap on ebay and a bit more robust. In my day we used those Clarke PU12 masts with Clansman but sadly they are still v expensive on ebay.
Parafoil kites as a skyhook.
 

Mikey P

Full Member
Nov 22, 2003
2,257
12
53
Glasgow, Scotland
Hi Doc,

If it were just a longwire (ie, significantly longer than 1/2 wave), does the same idea apply to the counterpoise (ie, not required or only short one required)?

With the verticals, I've been playing with a fibreglass pole which will support a 1/4-wave at 20m band but am not sure about the radials. A recent RadCom article suggests that 13 1/4-wave radial elements is optimum, which is quite a lot of wire! I know you have a homebase vertical so what's your take on this for the portable antenna? Alternatively, I'm guessing I can do an inverted-V, assuming that the pole will take the weight of the antenna arms and 6m of RG-58! Although I believe that the arms are shorter than for 1/2-wave I'd plan to use my existing 1/2-wave set up rather than chop the ends. I'd then tune the excess Xc with my ATU.
 
Last edited:

Doc

Need to contact Admin...
Nov 29, 2003
2,109
10
Perthshire
No, the long wire does need a counterpoise for sure. You can use a quarter wave, or Google W3EDP antenna - uses a 17ft counterpoise. There is nothing magic about the W3EDP, but it's ussually easy to match on all bands.

I have (possibly had, I blame the lawnmower) 16 radials. Some people use maybe 4 to 6 cheap steel tape measures as radials.. If you use elevated tuned insulated radials you only need 3 or 4, but otherwise 12-16 is good. You can use EZNEC or other antenna modelling software to see how much efficiency you lose with fewer radials.
The attraction of the EFHW is that it's efficient without radials/counterpoise -solong as you don't lose too much in matching device efficiency.

Another option is balanced atu plus ladderline fed doublet.
 

Mikey P

Full Member
Nov 22, 2003
2,257
12
53
Glasgow, Scotland
No, the long wire does need a counterpoise for sure. You can use a quarter wave, or Google W3EDP antenna - uses a 17ft counterpoise. There is nothing magic about the W3EDP, but it's ussually easy to match on all bands.

I have (possibly had, I blame the lawnmower) 16 radials. Some people use maybe 4 to 6 cheap steel tape measures as radials.. If you use elevated tuned insulated radials you only need 3 or 4, but otherwise 12-16 is good. You can use EZNEC or other antenna modelling software to see how much efficiency you lose with fewer radials.
The attraction of the EFHW is that it's efficient without radials/counterpoise -solong as you don't lose too much in matching device efficiency.

Another option is balanced atu plus ladderline fed doublet.

Thanks mate - I'll have a go. I'm pretty sure that my ZM-2 will match even an EFHW but I'll have a look at the W3EDP too.
 

rickyamos

Settler
Feb 6, 2010
622
0
Peterborough
Thanks guys!

Yeah, I think one of the SW kits is next up!

I'm listening a lot to the CW on 20m (on my general coverage receiver) but will try the FIST scheds too - thanks for that.

I like the idea of QRP and would rather have the opportunity to get out and about and perhaps make fewer QSOs rather than sit at home with 100W.

With the long wire set up, can you suggest what an optimum length of wire would be, assuming I use my ATU? Also, am interested in the idea of the end-fed 1/2 wave - surely impedance at the end of the wire is in the order of 1000s of Ohms?

Next step for me is to try and get hold of an FT817ND for home and as alternative portable use - anyone got one knocking about?!? ;)

You can get an FT-817ND but plan on spending £500 for a new one or £350 for second hand, they ain't cheap but much fun. I just ordered the LDG Z817 auto tuner for mine and a 4:1 LDG balun and 10m of 300 ohm ribbon cable to make a double extended zepp for 40m. Will be 90' per leg but will offer just under 3db gain on 40m and work all bands with the tuner. Will let you know how I get on.

Good luck on getting the FT-817

Cheers

Rick


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