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Is that because of the shape of the tip (pointier), or the location of the tip (on the centreline) ? (thanks for the considered answers, by the way - I'd feared opening the floodgates)

I hope you'll excuse this post: I have done a search, and found the sticky, but may not have spent long enough to find this question the first time that it was asked. It's something that's bugged me from the first time I saw a "bushcraft" blade - why is the point generally dropped all the way...

Our water is pumped (electrically) from a well, so we're a little vulnerable. I got a bilge pump for emergencies; but we don't seem to have the same wire-felling snowstorms as a decade or so ago. It's still comforting to have a shed full of seasoned and seasoning wood, though.

... or walk next to someone wearing dark clothes: you need to see the difference to believe it. Or don't breathe out: it's partly your CO2 that attracts them.

Speaking of Amazonas, there must be one of you out there who has tried one of these, or their less technical equivalents. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Amazonas-Mountain-Swinger-Hanging-Hammock/dp/B000OOR4O2 Do you have any informed advice on something that can be left out in all seasons ? I'm...

If by ashpan you mean the tinfoil, it'll also act as a reflector (many gas stoves now come with them as standard). This should increase the efficiency of your heat source. But won't stop rattles. Swings... roundabouts.

It's been mooted (sic). http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22764

I get this occasionally, and my ineffective remedy to date has been cursing and thumping the side of the leg. It appears that I may have to speak to Mrs Chance about 'alternative' therapies and/or medicine. Or maybe it's safer sticking with the thumping.

In my tenuous defence, I'd made the same new-to-site = new-to-toys mistake. Hence the suggestion of something proven that's easy to source. It's the advice I would have liked to have been given before I bought a Spanish version of the old RM/WS survival knife a long, long time ago. I still...

Thanks, now I just look silly.

To save you some time searching through "knife" posts, buy a Mora for now. Upgrade later, after you've had a chance to blunt it and review the contradictory opinions.

OK, it's not that portable, but I've managed to improvise a wooden stove: (burning out an old stump, I couldn't pass up the opportunity for a cuppa) PS Hobo shield (q.v.) in stowed configuration:

How robust is rabbit skin ? I put my thumb through the last one, so it was left for the crows. Any handling tips (or is it just "don't be rough") ?

Just adding it as an option, but a timber hitch has served me well at the low-ish tensions I'm playing with. Emphasis on playing.

Aren't some of the (other) Bushcraft magazine editorial staff from around your way ?

Are elasticity and brittleness the same thing ? What about Charpy ?

It's a curiosity of subsea engineering that submerged Ti is almost exacty ½ lighter than steel, and Al ½ lighter again.

My shot at the original question: it gives you a tiniest bit of a head start. You're starting off in bushcraft (or whatever you choose to call it), and would like a blade. So, if you can afford it (big if), you buy one with a seal of approval (open to the usual immense debate). One less thing...

There are plenty of Ti divers' knives out there. Possibly because it's pretty inert in seawater, rather than for Rockwell reasons.

I made a small yew bow for my daughter on which the nettle cordage string has survived a couple of years. Straight from weed to bow; no drying, no soaking. Tension from the wood has prevented loosening of the lay. But I can't say that I'd want to risk scaling it up to a 'real' bow; and I...