soaking in oil?

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Everything Mac

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Nov 30, 2009
3,161
146
37
Scotland
Hi all - as ever I must be the fool for ten minutes and BB isn't working for me just now.

what does soaking a knife handle in linseed oil do? - I have often heard people mention it but have only ever rubbed my handles down with oil. :O easy :P

is it just a much deeper protection? surely soaking wood in oil would make it swell??

cheers lads

Andy
 
I'm just trying this at the mo, using the nessy with lacewood handle slabs, so far i have soaked for three days in boiled linseed, then left to drip till it's real tacky then a quick wipe then repeat, it does seem to build up layers and slowly fill the grain. i'll do it a couple more times then leave to dry for a couple of weeks then give it a proper shineing. i haven't noticed any swelling really, i'm also doing it to another knife which has birch handles any swelling should be more noticable as it was put together by some one who knows what there doing.
 
I heard that boiling in oil worked, but you have to be careful not to burn the wood. My variation is to put a jug of oil in the microwave for 3 minutes, then put the piece in. It fizzes madly in the hot oil as the air and water are replaced by the oil. When it stops fizzing the oil is cool. if needed I repeat with any part of the piece that didn't get immersed the first time.

I do this mainly with spoons, as i think the idea is to seal the wood so that flavours can't soak into the wood and taint it. No reason why it wouldn't work on knife slabs though. No discernible swelling, and not oily once it is dry.
 
I heard that boiling in oil worked, but you have to be careful not to burn the wood. My variation is to put a jug of oil in the microwave for 3 minutes, then put the piece in. It fizzes madly in the hot oil as the air and water are replaced by the oil. When it stops fizzing the oil is cool. if needed I repeat with any part of the piece that didn't get immersed the first time.

I do this mainly with spoons, as i think the idea is to seal the wood so that flavours can't soak into the wood and taint it. No reason why it wouldn't work on knife slabs though. No discernible swelling, and not oily once it is dry.

cheers mate - that makes a lot of sense.

I usually just wipe a couple of coats onto my handles when I finish them. - but that sounds right to me.

all the best mate

Andy
 
Be careful with very hot oil, it will degrade or ruin the epoxy fixing the slabs to the tang/liners and make things worse. That's why I only warm it slightly.
 
yeah I figured that might happen Jonathan - but cheers for the heads up.

that blade in your link is stunning.

Andy
 
Cheers Andy, the oil really brought out the grain and beauty of the antler. It does the same with wood too, enhances it and brings out the grain.
 
Heating the knife so it is quite warm/hot to the touch before plunging it in the oil, opens the pores too and gets better results.
 
I thought boiled linseed oil was just the oil with additives such as solvents included and should be applied thinly as there is a risk of it remaining tacky or not drying out at all.

I think ive heard somewhere that the drying out process is exothermic & that any rags with linseed oil on should be soaked in water before binned or even burnt.
 
I belive it's only certain materials that combust, i have a cotton shirt that i use for wiping of the knife handles and it's not gone up yet, I don't have the bottle anymore, but i use it on other carved things and it does dry off quite nicely.
 
I think ive heard somewhere that the drying out process is exothermic & that any rags with linseed oil on should be soaked in water before binned or even burnt.

Just leave the rags laid out flat to dry-they can't build up enough heat as a single layer of fabric. The scrunched up rags can catch fire, but its not likely-I have been trying unsuccessfully for years.

Lots of paints and varnishes can spontaneously combust when soaked into cloths and screwed up in the bin.
 
Hi Andy. Soaking in oil makes a great handle if wood or antler. It also makes leather go a nice dark rich colour and penetrates further as you say. Be carefull if using burl woods though. I used to soak mine in a glass jar sat on the wood burner over night as it cooled down, but they come out very dark, and darken further still as they dry.
A wipe over quick dry and buff is good for keeping in good condition if not using waxes. The raw and cold pressed linseed oils are less tacky.
 
I always use Danish oil and heating it would drive off the thinners/drying agents as I owuld bot bother doing that. If the wood is very pale and I want it to stay that way it may be soaked for 2 hours but otherwise overnight is fine. Wipe off the excess and buff frequently to stop it being too srticky .

I then apply a layer of carnuba wax with a polishing wheel.

I have seen trong advice against oiling antler from scandi makers.
 
I made a handle for my knife with White Oak.
I dipped the handle into linseed oil and cling wrapped it for the whole night. about 12 hrs.
The wood has now taken on a deep brown colour (from white) and looks good.
The wood is not softened in any way and I oil it from time to time just to keep the wood fed.
 
Out of interest, I'm sure I read somewhere that Mors suggests doing some king of oil soaking to axe handles? Anyone seen this? Anyone do it?
 
Some folks soak the head in oil if a little loose to tighten up again.
I rub the handle with a bit from time to time to keep in good condition.
 
Yup i tend to give mine a good soak and rub, from time to time, the head hasen't ever benn loos, i just do it out of habit i guess. i tend to maintain all my tool on a monthly basis, so it gets done with the rest.
 

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