about 8 years ago i cut myself a yew branch,with the intention of attempting a longbow.it has lay in the hut all this time,so after reading a couple of members posts on bowmaking i started last night,and this afternoon had a bow shape i think.i have used paracord for now for a string ,but will change that,if anybody could point me in the right direction .i will try to remember how to post pictures ,and maybe you could tell me where i have gone wrong.
attempt at bowmaking
- Thread starter Gill
- Start date
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You can make your own strings but if you dont fancy it then give quicks a call, cheap as chips.
http://www.quicks.com/
Get some pics up and im sure there will be a load of help fired your way
I would avoid paracord though as it stretches and could lead you towards an un-even tiller.
http://www.quicks.com/
Get some pics up and im sure there will be a load of help fired your way
I would avoid paracord though as it stretches and could lead you towards an un-even tiller.
Hi Gill.
I'll be taking a jaunt down to Morchs tommorrow, could stop off on the way back and show you how to knock a string up if you liked. I have plenty of material and it'd be no bother to chuck the jig in the car(not necessary but speeds things up).
Need to be back up here by 7ish but if I get you started you'll be able to finish it off yourself. PM me a phone number if it suits.
I'll be taking a jaunt down to Morchs tommorrow, could stop off on the way back and show you how to knock a string up if you liked. I have plenty of material and it'd be no bother to chuck the jig in the car(not necessary but speeds things up).
Need to be back up here by 7ish but if I get you started you'll be able to finish it off yourself. PM me a phone number if it suits.
You will need some pretty strong cord for a tillering string. But I wouldn't use paracord for that either.
Go with Dacron or linen (if you are really into traditional tackle)
Post some pics as you go along .
Jon R.
Go with Dacron or linen (if you are really into traditional tackle)
Post some pics as you go along .
Jon R.
The lower limb looks a little stiff in the riser area, that could be the angle of the pic. But if it shoots you are good to go.
Jon R.
Jon R.
If you can get a full draw picture it would be easier to see if there are any problems. Like said above if it shoots then your onto a winner !
The more you make and break the better you will get.
Nice bow
The more you make and break the better you will get.
Nice bow
M
moccasintracks
Guest
it looks as if you have a slight Hinge in the lower limb about 1/3 of the way down from the handle.
you may have to remove a bit more through both limbs to get a smooth arc.
If you leave the place where it is bending more than the rest (henge) it will eventually break.
It looks as if you are onto a good bow, just needs a bit more tillering.
Should draw weight get to low you can shorten the tips a bit to get it back up.
I have also "backed" my bows with rawhide.
I just get one of the large dog rawhide bones and soak it until I can take it apart.
Use plain Knox Geletin to make a "hide glue" to put the backing on.
Sand and paint if you like.
Backing a bow makes it higher draw weight, and can even put in some reflex as it dries to counter string follow.
Also reduces chance for breaking.
Some folk use silk or sinew for backing.
I wish I could get yew to work with. I do have some Osage Orange, but it is a difficult wood to work with so most of my bows are hickory or oak or maple.
A friend from Yugoslavia made bows from spruce limbs. HE would cut limbs that were curved so the rings were close together on the half he build the bow from. Called it "compression wood"?
Anyway I would address the hinge, and go shoot, the rest could be for later or bow number 2.
It becomes as much an addiction as making pepsi can stoves LOL
Jim
you may have to remove a bit more through both limbs to get a smooth arc.
If you leave the place where it is bending more than the rest (henge) it will eventually break.
It looks as if you are onto a good bow, just needs a bit more tillering.
Should draw weight get to low you can shorten the tips a bit to get it back up.
I have also "backed" my bows with rawhide.
I just get one of the large dog rawhide bones and soak it until I can take it apart.
Use plain Knox Geletin to make a "hide glue" to put the backing on.
Sand and paint if you like.
Backing a bow makes it higher draw weight, and can even put in some reflex as it dries to counter string follow.
Also reduces chance for breaking.
Some folk use silk or sinew for backing.
I wish I could get yew to work with. I do have some Osage Orange, but it is a difficult wood to work with so most of my bows are hickory or oak or maple.
A friend from Yugoslavia made bows from spruce limbs. HE would cut limbs that were curved so the rings were close together on the half he build the bow from. Called it "compression wood"?
Anyway I would address the hinge, and go shoot, the rest could be for later or bow number 2.
It becomes as much an addiction as making pepsi can stoves LOL
Jim
M
moccasintracks
Guest
Moc has it right. I thought from the pics you might have an uneven lower limb.
As said before you could pike the stave and re-tiller. Backing is a great option
sinew (real) or rawhide works well. But you can also use linen as a backing.
Anyway you look at it thats a neat bow considering you were using a branch as a starting point.
Jon R.
As said before you could pike the stave and re-tiller. Backing is a great option
sinew (real) or rawhide works well. But you can also use linen as a backing.
Anyway you look at it thats a neat bow considering you were using a branch as a starting point.
Jon R.
yep i agree, it,s got a hinge where you see it. but i am happy with it for a first bow.the only thing is now i need MORE yew for more,this is addictive ! a couple of friends are arborists and have their own bussiness,so they said they can get me yew ,which i really loved working with .which other woods are as good ,or is there any better than yew for a longbow.thanks very much to josh for the help yesterday mate,very much appreciated.i cant believe my belly looks as big as that ,is your camera good mate 
Couldnt agree more. The whole bowyery debate openend up a while ago when bowyers such as Tim baker (one of the bowyers bible guys) proved that more common "white" woods can make bows just as good as the old fabled yew bows.
Its all down to design and the treatment of the woods.
Yew is a great bow wood as you can get away with a lot more in regards to curing and design than you can with white and so called "lesser" bow woods.
However if white woods such as ash, oak, willow (personal experience) elm, laburnum, pine and far too many others to mention are treated properly and designed to the porperties of the wood then any wood is bow wood.
Grab your self a copy of the bowyers bibles, cheap as chips and a wealth of modern knowledge.
.....is your camera good mate
Maybe I'd left on the specialist Sumo Filter.
I'm with everyone else as regards to other woods. Anything goes. I only have experience with Ash and it's great to work with. Fancy cherry - nice colours, gets a good rep and cherry trees generaly seem to have a seven foot long straight twist-free trunk before the branches start.
For those who are interested I reckon Gills bow is low-mid 40s draw weight. Wasn't about to haul back on someone elses freshly made selfbow so just guessing based on a couple of 3/4 length draws I had. Nicely progressive weight increase with plenty of springyness(for want of the proper word). Had taken on a couple of inches of set which maybe isn't surprising considering it's all sapwood.
Liked it, felt good!
i went over to see a mate today, who happens to have a yew tree in his garden,obviousley i had to beg a bit for bow no.2 .i just happened to have a bahco folder in my pocket. so i got home and started about it with a small wetterlings axe,and by five this evening i had this .i am quite pleased with it already , although there is a hinge ,but it was more because the limb was preety bent ,i lost most of the bend but could not quite get it out altogether,i am not sure what to do with it.with the wood being freshly cut if i forced it into the desireable postion and left it while dryng would it straighten it any ,i doubt this myself though.it is 74 inches long so is more like the proper length, the first one was only 64 inches .i could be doing with a string josh any advice ,comments welcome .it is standing next to the one i made last week i have added a piece of leather to that one .
so i got home and started about it with a small wetterlings axe,and by five this evening i had this .i am quite pleased with it already , although there is a hinge ,but it was more because the limb was preety bent ,i lost most of the bend but could not quite get it out altogether,i am not sure what to do with it.with the wood being freshly cut if i forced it into the desireable postion and left it while dryng would it straighten it any ,i doubt this myself though.it is 74 inches long so is more like the proper length, the first one was only 64 inches .i could be doing with a string josh any advice ,comments welcome .it is standing next to the one i made last week i have added a piece of leather to that one .
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