Are these oils safe to put on spoons and the great whistle from jonr's tutorial. If not, what can I use.
Linseed and Danish Oil
- Thread starter IntrepidStu
- Start date
nope. Danish and 'boiled' linseed oils have dryers that are basically very nasty heavy metal compounds 
Raw linseed il (or flaxseed oil from a horse food seller) is fine though
It takes an age to dry though. Proper boiled linseed oil is ok anddries quicker, but you would have to boil the raw stuff yourself and you risk blowing yourself up!
Raw linseed il (or flaxseed oil from a horse food seller) is fine though
It takes an age to dry though. Proper boiled linseed oil is ok anddries quicker, but you would have to boil the raw stuff yourself and you risk blowing yourself up!nope. Danish and 'boiled' linseed oils have dryers that are basically very nasty heavy metal compounds
Raw linseed il (or flaxseed oil from a horse food seller) is fine though
So let me get this straight; Raw linseed oil is OK?? Do I have to boil it??
I have Raw Linseed oil from Wilkinsons.
Actually the heavy metals have been banned in varnish, paint and oils. Any modern finish is safe after it dries and the chemical thinners have evaporated.
I had thought the same and have said so many times, now I have learned better.
I had thought the same and have said so many times, now I have learned better.
Raw linseed/flaxseed oil is fine. I have oiled two knife handles and a spoon with linseed-oil. When I used to weight train I even used to have a teaspoon of the stuff every other day, horrible stuff to take like that!
You must be mad: The bottle has a health warning saying any contact with skin should be followed with a visit to the doctor.
Does anyone know what this "boiling" business is all about, and if I need to first boil the raw linseed oil???
Ok maybe it wasn't heavy metals, but I did email one of the oil finish manufacturers a while back. They told me that they did add dryers and they said what it was, but I seem to have lost the email now I remember them saying that it was definately not good to eat!
True boiled linseed oil is an old and now unavailable product. I have to admit now that I was under the impression that it was simpy linseed oil that was boiled and the nasties were a modern chemical variation. I have just looked through my old books on funky recipes for handymen and discovered how to make 'boiled linseed oil' for clear varnishes and the like. It seem that to speed up the drying time and clarify linseed oil you must heat it to about 170C and then add lead oxides to it, this helps to draw out excess oxygen and speed the curing time. The best clear varnich uses white lead, but red lead is adequate!
Sorry to mislead you there, I was mistaken So I would just use raw linseed/flax oil and accept it takes an age to dry
I remember them saying that it was definately not good to eat!True boiled linseed oil is an old and now unavailable product. I have to admit now that I was under the impression that it was simpy linseed oil that was boiled and the nasties were a modern chemical variation. I have just looked through my old books on funky recipes for handymen and discovered how to make 'boiled linseed oil' for clear varnishes and the like. It seem that to speed up the drying time and clarify linseed oil you must heat it to about 170C and then add lead oxides to it, this helps to draw out excess oxygen and speed the curing time. The best clear varnich uses white lead, but red lead is adequate!
Sorry to mislead you there, I was mistaken
So I would just use raw linseed/flax oil and accept it takes an age to dry Ok maybe it wasn't heavy metals, but I did email one of the oil finish manufacturers a while back. They told me that they did add dryers and they said what it was, but I seem to have lost the email now
True boiled linseed oil is an old and now unavailable product. I have to admit now that I was under the impression that it was simpy linseed oil that was boiled and the nasties were a modern chemical variation. I have just looked through my old books on funky recipes for handymen and discovered how to make 'boiled linseed oil' for clear varnishes and the like. It seem that to speed up the drying time and clarify linseed oil you must heat it to about 170C and then add lead oxides to it, this helps to draw out excess oxygen and speed the curing time. The best clear varnich uses white lead, but red lead is adequate!
Sorry to mislead you there, I was mistaken
Cheers Dave.
Hmmm, lets think about this sequentially.
First we have a seed - called linseed over here, or flax seed in the US.
That seed is edible and contains oils.
The oil can be squeezed out of the seed and can be consumed safely by mammals - including humans (although moderation would be advisable). It is sold in health food shops although the actual health benefits are under question.
The raw oil can be used for other things including treating wood, but as has been pointed out takes a long time to dry.
Boiling the oil was a traditional way of producing something that was quicker drying - I'm not sure of the exact changes - either oxidation or polymerisation - but I wouldn't eat the stuff. It is probably safe to use on spoons though.
Boiling linseed oil is dangerous and difficult and so "boiled" linseed oil is now produced with the addition of solvent to speed up drying. This stuff is definitely not safe for eating, but may or may not be safe for use of spoons.
So what you are all saying is that I have wasted the last 4 weeks making Kuksa,s for all the family only to poison them because I have treated the kuksa's with Refined linseed oil.
Is raw linseed oil okay?
Is raw linseed oil okay?
So what you are all saying is that I have wasted the last 4 weeks making Kuksa,s for all the family only to poison them because I have treated the kuksa's with Refined linseed oil.
Is raw linseed oil okay?
People are saying the Raw stuff is OK, but Im still a bit confused. I think Im off to IKEA,
robin wood
Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
I would not worry too much. Boiled linseed does contain drying agents which are undoubtedly not good for you but if I had made and treated kuksas with it I would use them once the oil had cured I don't think the quantity of "poison" you would be significant though its for each to make that judgment for themselves.
Some oils like olive stay liquid and can go rancid, some set, linseed and walnut do and are my favorites.
Raw linseed as sold in B&Q and such like may also have driers added, it is not a food product so does not need to declare its ingredients. I use the cold pressed linseed which is sold as horse feed, it is a different oil with a pleasant nutty smell and rather thinner makes me wonder what happens to the "raw linseed" sold in shops.
IKEA oil is mineral oil/liquid paraffin/paraffin oil same thing is available cheaper from your local chemist but it is sold as a laxative so if you ask for 5 litres you may get odd looks. This oil will not go rancid like olive but neither will it set like linseed/walnut.
To be honest for a spoon it does not matter too much as its a thin object that does not absorb much oil, even sunflower would do, I would not go a long way out of my way to buy oil specially just oil it up and get using it.
Some oils like olive stay liquid and can go rancid, some set, linseed and walnut do and are my favorites.
Raw linseed as sold in B&Q and such like may also have driers added, it is not a food product so does not need to declare its ingredients. I use the cold pressed linseed which is sold as horse feed, it is a different oil with a pleasant nutty smell and rather thinner makes me wonder what happens to the "raw linseed" sold in shops.
IKEA oil is mineral oil/liquid paraffin/paraffin oil same thing is available cheaper from your local chemist but it is sold as a laxative so if you ask for 5 litres you may get odd looks. This oil will not go rancid like olive but neither will it set like linseed/walnut.
To be honest for a spoon it does not matter too much as its a thin object that does not absorb much oil, even sunflower would do, I would not go a long way out of my way to buy oil specially just oil it up and get using it.
axminster power tools do a food safe oil that looks interesting.
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Chestnut-Food-Safe-Oil-377292.htm
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Chestnut-Food-Safe-Oil-377292.htm
