Woodlore pro knife
- Thread starter swotty
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Really I think that a Woodlore in CPM 3v would be the sweet spot for everyone.....
except for those who struggle to sharpen things and/or don't have diamond sharpeners....which seems to be quite a lot of people!
I like my one knife in CPM3V, but I have all the gear to sharpen it, and have had plenty of practice. Back when we were doing the Spyderco BushcraftUK, there was a prototype in D2 which had slightly convex bevels. It took hours and multiple sheets of 120grit wet and dry to get those bevels flat! I am not a fan of abrasion resistant steels coupled with big contact area Scandi grinds.
I like RWL34 too, I think it is better all around than 12C27, but I have been extremely impressed with AEBL's ability to take a low angle edge at high hardness without chipping. Dead easy to sharpen too.
Having used AEBL now for my own knife and a bunch in the kitchen, I can see absolutely no good reason to use O-1 from a use/performance point of view. AEBL can be tougher at a higher hardness, meaning that it won't roll, or chip, at an edge angle where O-1 will, meaning it can be used harder without taking damage...all without rusting or losing its edge from corrosion as O-1 can.
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I am yet to try AEBL, but with 12c27, VG10 and RWL34 I have experienced significant number of small chips along my blades edges.
In the collection my S30v scandi trapper has the best edge holding, but still has these small chips....thus 3v really is my sweet spot for user fixed blades.
@C_Claycomb I understand what you are saying in relation to sharpening, but in my experience 3v in the boker and benchmade line has been okay, but get what you are saying about grinds with large surfaces.
In the collection my S30v scandi trapper has the best edge holding, but still has these small chips....thus 3v really is my sweet spot for user fixed blades.
@C_Claycomb I understand what you are saying in relation to sharpening, but in my experience 3v in the boker and benchmade line has been okay, but get what you are saying about grinds with large surfaces.
Same here. I have done for many years.Paul Kirtley now disagreeshe favours RWL34.
Thanks for all the replies, some interesting comments.
i think some of my reason for asking is that I'm currently favouring a full flat grind as my go to woods knife ( L T Wright Next Gen) as it is so versatile. Don't get me wrong I still use my scandi grind knives a lot but as we all know they're great for wood but not so good for food prep etc. I guess the Sami idea of carrying two or three knives for different purposes is the answer
i think some of my reason for asking is that I'm currently favouring a full flat grind as my go to woods knife ( L T Wright Next Gen) as it is so versatile. Don't get me wrong I still use my scandi grind knives a lot but as we all know they're great for wood but not so good for food prep etc. I guess the Sami idea of carrying two or three knives for different purposes is the answer
You are not alone in preferring a flat grind!!!Thanks for all the replies, some interesting comments.
i think some of my reason for asking is that I'm currently favouring a full flat grind as my go to woods knife ( L T Wright Next Gen) as it is so versatile. Don't get me wrong I still use my scandi grind knives a lot but as we all know they're great for wood but not so good for food prep etc. I guess the Sami idea of carrying two or three knives for different purposes is the answer
Its fine for a scandi grind. Don't need more for working with wood.
Sorry for thread resurrection, but this popper up when i logged in, and only just realised there'd been no new posts. Go figure.
