Yes I've read this many times about Paramo gear. Hit and miss performance.And conversely, I’ve also used (and stopped using) Nikwax products for years because not a single one of them works. Instructions followed to the very letter on an expensive Paramo Halcon. It doesn’t let in water, but there’s zero beading on the fabric and it just wets through. Luckily Paramo stuff is made out of magic, so it’s fine.
Only the proper original boot wax that is no longer available ever worked. Sno-Seal filled that niche. The leather stuff is useless too, a pair of Helikon Bushman gloves treated 3 times were waterproof for a brief spell before absorbing water.
Can you expand on your exact steps which you described above in terms of how much Tech Wash you use, then how much TX.Direct Wash In, both garments in together or solo, how many times you wash them with each treatment etc.?It's strange how it works for some but not others. I've recently washed and reproofed two second hand coats and my Paramo that I had at Christmas and they all bead water.
Very hard water, which at least runs visually clear but probably has Thames Water CEO's excretions in it.Our water is soft too, but the water board in their wisdom now chlorinate our potable water supplies
On t'other hand, we no longer have whisky coloured water coming through when it pours hard up on the Lanark moors. They've gotten very good at filtering out the peat.
I am a stickler for the instructions on such things, but clearly something is going awry.I’ve used Nikwax products for years. Never had a problem. Just make sure you follow the instructions.
Performance has been excellent, it’s remained waterproof in several hours of constant rain. But I’m not too sure what I’m expecting of the TechWash stuff? Even from new, the outer wets through, but no water penetrates. That’s what I meant by magic. This guy here shows it in his video around 5.30 mins.Yes I've read this many times about Paramo gear. Hit and miss performance.
I have some of their Velez trousers which failed on the recent trip, after having worked great in other trips...but this was the first time they had been exposed to such monumental rain. I Tech Washed a TX.Direct treated these just before the trip. I contacted Paramo and they want to take a look.
I was also using a Velez Smock which I bought second hand, and had not treated it before the trip as the previous owner said they'd recently done so, and it very much smelt Nikwaxy. It performed perfectly, keeping me completely dry!
So a sample size of complete insignificance, but it leaves me thinking it's something I'm doing that's not right. It'll be interesting to hear what Paramo have to say about the trousers as they did mention on the phone it was possible I had over-treated them...(I really don't see how that would work negatively with Nikwax stuff).
I'll report back.
I don't know if it's my taste buds changing or an increase in chlorine but over the past 6 months or so, I can taste the chlorine in my tap water where previously I never noticed it.Our water is soft too, but the water board in their wisdom now chlorinate our potable water supplies
On t'other hand, we no longer have whisky coloured water coming through when it pours hard up on the Lanark moors. They've gotten very good at filtering out the peat.
I just followed the instructions, I think I washed them one coat at a time, but that wasn't intentional. Two weeks ago I washed and reproofed a second hand Paramo that was wetting out and it now beads, and then I decided to do my new Paramo which probably didn't need it but couldn't help myself. Just followed the instructions again.Can you expand on your exact steps which you described above in terms of how much Tech Wash you use, then how much TX.Direct Wash In, both garments in together or solo, how many times you wash them with each treatment etc.?
It can actually prevent any hydrophobic substance from working (hydrophobicity = beading), almost all non-pure-soap detergents contain surfactants (substances that lower surface tension of water) that is there to help wetting. So it helps wetting even at very small residues on the washed garment.I have heard that any detergent, even a small amount can really hamper the performance of Nikwax dwr.
I don't know if it's my taste buds changing or an increase in chlorine but over the past 6 months or so, I can taste the chlorine in my tap water where previously I never noticed it.
When I go to West Wales where it's much more rural, the water tastes soo good I don't taste any chemical flavours at all.
I've been meaning to look into something like this.It got so noticeable to me that I bought and my husband fitted an undersink water filter system.
It is simplicity itself, and it gave us back plain as unadulterated as possible drinking water.
Under twenty quid for the whole thing, and that includes the tap and the thing to cut through the stainless steel sink beside the other taps.
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Unfortunately I don't have room for a second washing machine otherwise I would get oneIt can actually prevent any hydrophobic substance from working (hydrophobicity = beading), almost all non-pure-soap detergents contain surfactants (substances that lower surface tension of water) that is there to help wetting. So it helps wetting even at very small residues on the washed garment.
One should have two washing machines one for underwear and one for outerwear, no surfactants should be allowed in the outerwear one.![]()
Honestly, this was so simple a set up to fix. Changing the filters is very straightforward too. I can taste when it's time to change even though I do mark the calendar.I've been meaning to look into something like this.
Unfortunately I don't have room for a second washing machine otherwise I would get one
Has anyone tried a portable washing machine? There's a Costway portable washing machine on Amazon that is small enough to stick in my workshop and only bring in the house when I need to wash outdoor garments.I miss my twin tub. An old fashioned twin tub really washed clothes, and you could spin stuff until nearly bone dry too. If I had room, even though I have an automatic, I'd have a twin tub too.
At the end of the wash cycle, run your garment under a tap whilst it is still wet to check if water beads up on the outer fabric. If it does not, use the correct proofing product for your garment (see below) and use the same cycle setting as for the initial wash. At the end of the proofing cycle, leave your garment to air dry over a towel.
Dan? What’s the garment? I don’t know much about anything other than the Halcon and the outer is made of very thin stuff. I get an initial beading like that but you can kind of tell that’s not how the material works. I have remained dry always but I’m not sure where the water is stopped, or how.
Not in their wisdom. They have a Statutory obligation provide wholesome water.Our water is soft too, but the water board in their wisdom now chlorinate our potable water supplies
On t'other hand, we no longer have whisky coloured water coming through when it pours hard up on the Lanark moors. They've gotten very good at filtering out the peat.