recommended knives?

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ozymandias

Member
Aug 18, 2006
28
0
40
cheltenham
i've used a frosts knife, the mora for the last 3 years, and am looking for recommendations for a replacement in the £50 ish range? any happy owners of that sort of knife? i'd like a wooden handle, ideally. there seems to be so many out there, some with slightly disparaging names like 'predator' etc that i'm kind of lost, and i'd really benefit from some wisdom. thanks for any help!
 

leon-1

Full Member
This is a bit of a difficult one, but I would suggest either looking at the likes of EKA, Brusletto or checking out the Tregor knives (Lapp Pukko).

Other options include speaking to the guys over on BB and seeing what they can turn up for you or making the knife from its component parts yourself in which case you will need to make up your mind on whether you wanted a stick or full tang knife.
 

ozymandias

Member
Aug 18, 2006
28
0
40
cheltenham
on further research the knife i've been using is the frosts 780, is the lapplander 90 good? bit expensive for me, but could shop around maybe.
 

leon-1

Full Member
The frosts laplanders are nice little knives, you can buy them blade only as well from a number of different places.

As I said before have a look at Helle knives here or look into EKA Nordic, Fallkniven WM1, Benchmade Rant, Brusletto Profileringskniv, Brusletto Troll, Brusletto Nansen, Brusletto Norron, Ericsson Mora2000, Frosts Clipper, Martini Explorer, all of these are good knives, some are slightly over your budget some fall slap bang in the middle and some are cheap as chips, but all are good knives and quite capable of taking on most tasks in bushcraft.
 

paulgosker

Member
Jul 18, 2006
12
0
41
Ireland
If you looking for a cheap knife but one that will last and take a hell of a beating, try ka-bar.

I have their USMC issue

usmc_kabar2.jpg


And the impact warthog

kb1463.JPG


Both are solid as hell and in the unlilkey event you break one, they are cheap to replace.

I got my USMC for 60 euro (delivered) and the warthog for 50 euro (delivered)

They have never let me down.
 

ozymandias

Member
Aug 18, 2006
28
0
40
cheltenham
thanks for the advice guys, after reading the articles and threads on handle making i'd love to have a go myself, especially as i can get a lapplander blank for £20. where would you get the wood for a handle and leather for a sheath? also, do you need special tools? i havnt got a bench drill, just a normal one, but i've got all the usual ones people have.

and finally, er, how hard is it? im not a complete doofus but im no woodworking god either. dont want to end up with a rubbish looking thing at the end of it all.
 

Ed

Admin
Admin
Aug 27, 2003
5,973
37
51
South Wales Valleys
where would you get the wood for a handle and leather for a sheath?
There isa guy on ebay selling knife scales in various woods, and another selling leather for sheathes, or go over to british blades as I'm sure someone over there can help you out.

Ed
 

leon-1

Full Member
EnglishRose, can be found on both here and BB, she sells materials (wood)for making handles/scales.

Also on BB you should be able to find cod12e I think is his username, he also sells wood for scales.

If you have no joy with them try Brisa.

Araldite precision is probably your best bet as far as adhesives are concerned, available from loads of places.

Mosaic pins are a little more difficult and a lot more expensive, although there was a guy over on BB who offered to make some for people.

You could use straight forward pins (barstock) or tube in the same size that you require should be available from model shops.

Abrasives from 50 grit clothbacked through to 2500 grit wet 'n' dry are available from Axminster as are most of the tools that you need.

Tools, a small vice comes in very handy, a rasp / file, hacksaw (junior one for pins or whatever), one drill for making the holes in the scales (a steady hand) and the abrasives and that is about your lot.

Leatherwork tools and the like can be bought from Brisa also as well as leather, but Brisa is quite expensive.

The biggest problem will be drawing up a design that you like for the sheath and then making it work, don't let this put you off when you have got a knife finished in a sheath that you made you will be a very happy man:D

This is the second one that I made, I was asked to make for a friend:)

10_minutes_Ago.jpg


When you have something like that in front of you, you get a bit of a buzz:D
 

geoff88

Forager
Jul 14, 2006
136
0
67
SW England
Have to say I like Ka-Bars myself for the money they are great. For a RM clone knife you would have to make it yourself or pay a lot more than £50.

Geoff
 

Kepis

Full Member
Jul 17, 2005
6,726
2,286
Sussex
How about this

http://www.heinnie.com/cgi-bin/hein...gi?page=helle/HE-04.htm&cart_id=2723474.19017

Or even this, even cheaper

http://www.heinnie.com/cgi-bin/hein...e/helle_folkekniven.htm&cart_id=2723474.19017



Got one of the Fjellkniven's myself and despite it having a stainless blade it strikes sparks quite well from a fire stick, but you have to roughen the top edge of the blade first, not a bad bit of kit for the money,

Best bet is to have a look at http://www.heinnie.com/cgi-bin/heinnie_store/web_store.cgi, you are bound to find sosmething you like on there, i can spend hours looking at all the shiny things on there :)
 

ozymandias

Member
Aug 18, 2006
28
0
40
cheltenham
right, i reckon i'm going to get a frosts lapplander 90, as i've always enjoyed using my cheap as chips mora, and some blanks off english rose. can i just glue the grip on or should i use the holes to put some brass pins in?

but anyway, thanks to everyone who has replied as i would have been totally lost without the advice you have given me. may post a pic of the finished article if it's not to awful!
 

leon-1

Full Member
ozymandias said:
right, i reckon i'm going to get a frosts lapplander 90, as i've always enjoyed using my cheap as chips mora, and some blanks off english rose. can i just glue the grip on or should i use the holes to put some brass pins in?

but anyway, thanks to everyone who has replied as i would have been totally lost without the advice you have given me. may post a pic of the finished article if it's not to awful!

Pins will add a little strength to it if the scales take a bash longitudinally, rivets will hold the scales in place, bolts are probably best (corby or lovless), but a lot more difficult to get hold of.

In the long run the adhesive will be the thing holding the scales in place on a knife which hasa pins (mosaic or solid) and most of todays epoxy resins are very very strong, however all epoxy degrades with exposure to heat, IIRC ~ 70'C, so that is something to bear in mind.

That being said if the tang and the scales of your knife are hitting 70 degrees then there is something wrong.
 

Hoodoo

Full Member
Nov 17, 2003
5,302
13
Michigan, USA
I think the Lapplander is a great choice! These are nice blades. I'm partial to the 115 version. The fully completed version sold by Frosts has a huge brass bolster which makes it kinda heavy and bulky but a nice pair of light scales on it can make it quite nimble to handle.

laplander1c.jpg
 

sam_acw

Native
Sep 2, 2005
1,081
10
41
Tyneside
I made up a knife from the Frosts 90 using buffalo horn slabs scales from Attleborough Acessories.
It turned out quite nice (by my standards) but for some reason I don't really like using it but it is perfectly servicable and cheap (blade less than £20).
The Knife seems to slide off things more than cut into them and is really too thick for food prep.

 

kb31

Forager
Jun 24, 2006
152
2
by the lakes
he's not makeing right now but ben orford on the wood smoke site makes a RM copy £165 called a woodlander RM'S your talking £500 now if i paid that much for a knife it would just get looked at! i know it's over £50 but for a hand made knife £165 is good going i've got one took about 8 week to get it but boy dos it cut!!
 

malcolmc

Forager
Jun 10, 2006
245
4
73
Wiltshire
www.webwessex.co.uk
I’ll probably be shot down in flames for this but last year I replaced a light carbon steel sheath knife with a Walther ‘La Chasse’ stainless hunter (http://www.carl-walther.de/englisch/accessories/accessories-73.html last item). It wasn’t what I was looking for; in particular it has a rubber handle and a curved back. I try to have an open mind in all things and considered it – it felt ‘right’ when I handled it. Now I haven’t used it out and about, just a bit of practice at home. It had no trouble splitting 5cm green ash (by battening), which is about the heaviest thing I want a knife to do and the rubber handle does seem to give a better grip in the wet.

It’s quite heavy at just shy of 200g. Has a 12 cm blade and a Cordura sheath with a retaining strap for the knife. It was priced at £25 (reduced from £35).

I’m well pleased with it but traditional it is not. :)
 

Draven

Native
Jul 8, 2006
1,530
6
34
Scotland
I’ll probably be shot down in flames for this but last year I replaced a light carbon steel sheath knife with a Walther ‘La Chasse’ stainless hunter (http://www.carl-walther.de/englisch...ssories-73.html last item). It wasn’t what I was looking for; in particular it has a rubber handle and a curved back. I try to have an open mind in all things and considered it – it felt ‘right’ when I handled it. Now I haven’t used it out and about, just a bit of practice at home. It had no trouble splitting 5cm green ash (by battening), which is about the heaviest thing I want a knife to do and the rubber handle does seem to give a better grip in the wet.

It’s quite heavy at just shy of 200g. Has a 12 cm blade and a Cordura sheath with a retaining strap for the knife. It was priced at £25 (reduced from £35).

I’m well pleased with it but traditional it is not.

It looks alright to me... what kind of grind? Looks like a double bevel, and I presume, hollow ground?
 

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