working out correct angles

baggins

Full Member
Apr 20, 2005
1,563
302
49
Coventry (and surveying trees uk wide)
Just about to make a start on a new blade but have been thinking more about the actual angle of the bevels. On my last few blades, i've used 3mm steel, and used a scandi grind which runs to a depth of 10mm on one and 15mm on another. Having now spend a silly anount of time on the net refreshing my trig skills, i've worked out that the 15mm bevel has left me with a very fine angle (now my maths is bad at the best of times) but, according to my calculations, i now have an angle of 2.76 degs on each bevel so a total cutting angle of 5.5.
Now is it me or does that sound really low. I was aiming to get to 30 odd degrees min.
By my calcs to achieve anything like what i'm after, i need to be creating a bevel of only about 5.5 mm which doesn't seem alot and looks wrong.
Any ideas or thoughts please.
By the way, for the math jockeys out there i used the following equations.
A (the angle)= inverse Tan X/Y (X being the centre distance from the edge to the bottom of the bevel and Y being the width of the bevel itself)
Cheers Guys
Baggins
 
Could do the maths But i normally use Autocad and draw it

heres a 28deg on 4 and 3 mm stock

knife.gif
 

Biddlesby

Settler
May 16, 2005
972
4
Frankfurt
I would agree that a 5.5mm bevel (if by this you mean the distance from the cutting edge, along the bevel) with steel of a thickness 3mm would lead to around 30 degrees internal angle at the cutting edge.

But if the thickness is 3mm and the bevel is 15mm then surely the angle is 2*arcsin(1.5/15)=11.5deg. Using a tangent function leads to much the same answer (this would imply "a 15mm bevel" means the distance from the cutting edge, parallel to the flat face of the blade).

But I may be misunderstanding your description. A diagram would speak a thousand words.
 

mick spain

Nomad
Oct 13, 2005
266
8
77
kent
FGYT said:
Could do the maths But i normally use Autocad and draw it

heres a 28deg on 4 and 3 mm stock

knife.gif


Yep that's how it's done on 3mm I always think the grind face looks to narrow so I usually give it about a 23 degree bevel :( 11.5 a side :)
 

baggins

Full Member
Apr 20, 2005
1,563
302
49
Coventry (and surveying trees uk wide)
nice one guys, thanks. i just wanted to get close to that ellisive 30degs as that seems to be a good all round cutting angle. I have noticed that my earlier knives did take alot of maintenence and wanted to make something a little more robust. Am glad to know that my maths isn't as bad as i thought (that of a very sick, numerically challenged, glow worm). The decision now is, form or function. But at least i am now in a position to choose.
If i could workout how to get my notepad arty picture up, i could show you calcs.
Ah well..
Cheers Guys
Baggins
 

billycan

Forager
Jan 21, 2006
240
1
Sussex
I just used a protractor to draw two lines with 29.something degrees between them which is supposed to be the optimum. Then whatever stock thickness i was using e.g. 4mm, measure the gap between the diverging lines till you reach a point that measures 4mm. Then measure the distance from there to the point and that will give you the bevel length.

Not sure that will make sense, but it is very easy to understand on a piece of paper.

but roughly: 5mm bevel on 2mm stock
6mm bevel on 3mm stock
7mm bevel on 4mm stock
 
billycan said:
I just used a protractor to draw two lines with 29.something degrees between them which is supposed to be the optimum. Then whatever stock thickness i was using e.g. 4mm, measure the gap between the diverging lines till you reach a point that measures 4mm. Then measure the distance from there to the point and that will give you the bevel length.

Not sure that will make sense, but it is very easy to understand on a piece of paper.

but roughly: 5mm bevel on 2mm stock
6mm bevel on 3mm stock
7mm bevel on 4mm stock



Do this on some graph paper and you can scale it up ie 10mm =1mm
or 1" =1mm :lmao:

Duncan
 

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