Woods for axe handles

[Quixoticgeek]

I need to put a handle on my new axe. I have a length of Silver birch that has been seasoning nicely. Is there any reason why this wouldn't be a suitable material? Ideally I would prefer Ash, but it's becoming hard to come by in these parts.

Thanks

J

 

[Hedgecrafter]

You might get a better answer from an expert but I would say that it depends on a number of things.

Firstly, if it's a felling axe then no. If it's a hatchet then it quite possibly will be plenty strong enough.

What size is the silver birch? When you make a haft you can't use a branch, you must use the trunk. And you can only use a split quarter because the very core of the tree is much more prone to splitting.

 

[grey-array]

Hey J,

Birch has been used for plenty of axe handles, this because it is a bit softer than hickory and elm which will relieve some stress given to the joints of the user.
However it being softer, and a little lower in the tensile strength, so in a really heavy or long handled axe like a splitting maul or a full size felling Axe I would advice Birch however it is still a possibility, You will however need to replace a birch handle a good bit sooner then you would need to with a Hickory, ash, or Elm one.

Just so you know and Here is a little story to bring it all into perspective:

As we all know White oak has a really high amount of strength and force it can negate, and If I can recollect it correctly English White Oak( Quercus Robur) could withstand about 12000kg in the radial direction ( per Well I cant remember the standard sizes used to calculate that XD) and Birch came up to about 8600kg with hickory around the 9800, so it has a bit less tensile strength indeed but you wouldnt have to worry about breaking anytime soon.

Hope that helps bringing it into perspective ^^
And stick with the tight grained birch, and if you have British native birch be carefull, as the quality is allot lower than the Norse/Russian Birch on which the tables I described above are take from.

Yours sincerely Ruud
PS grain alignment does become a really important thing with birch so keep that in check!

 

[Bundleman]

You can't find ash in Kent? Buddy find a local Bodger, a local BTCV group, tree surgeons...
But only use cleft ash.

 

[Dan J]

Birch should be ok. Air seasoned timber is always better as it retains a bit more of its springiness than kiln dried. As long as the grains fairly straight and its not too knotty, dj

 

[Bundleman]

What sort of axe are you helving?

 

[Quixoticgeek]

I have two axes in need of handles, a medieval combat axe (don't worry it's blunt), and a very small axe (~5" edge to poll). The battle axe I want to put a 28" long handle on it, the small axe, probably 10-12" long handle.

I have a trunk of a silver birch, I was going to use it in the round, rather than cleaving it down. With bark removed, it would be about the right diameter, I think.

J

 

[Bundleman]

In both cases birch will do if it's just for show but will not stand the test of time if worked.
It just doesn't have the strength or elasticity of ash. It would be a shame to put all the work into making and helving your axes only to have them break first time you really work them.

 

[ozzy1977]

Ash would be my only choice for axe handles.

 

[petrochemicals]

greenwood is easy to carve, and very resiiant. Whip yourself up one with a few extra inches on that way when it driesand shrinks you can re use it. Carving a rough one should only take a few minutes. As for the wood choice I dunno. A small axe will not suffer the force of a large sledge/axe/pick/mattock by quite a long way. A handle twice as long will probably take 4 times the force.

Really a big axe/hammer needs an end on like a pick axe/mattock. Now where is dave budd