Whats the perfect scope magnification for hunting rabbits....
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If it would interest people I've managed to cobble together a night vision adaptation for under £100 from using a cheap car reversing camera from maplin and some heath Robinson style have a go spirit! I'll upload a little how to in the near future when I get it really dialled. Works but it isn't pretty yet 
I almost forgot if anyone uses iphone (not sure about android) there is a great app called istrelok.
It has ballistic details for most scopes built in and you basically add in your zeroed range plus wind speed etc and it will give you a pic of your reticule with aim points etc... Like this
I know it won't appeal to everyone and it's pricey at £3.99 but if you shoot regularly, have multiple rifles or like me swap scopes fairly often its a handy little tool if your technologically inclined.
It has ballistic details for most scopes built in and you basically add in your zeroed range plus wind speed etc and it will give you a pic of your reticule with aim points etc... Like this
I know it won't appeal to everyone and it's pricey at £3.99 but if you shoot regularly, have multiple rifles or like me swap scopes fairly often its a handy little tool if your technologically inclined.
I ike High mags so i can see what im aiming at have used a 10-50 x 56 for a couple decades for FT HFT and hunting in 177 its mil dot works well with the trajectory and the magnifications
I like to zero the high point of the trajectory on 1 mil dot High at 10 x mag then at multiples of 10 ie 20 30 40 and 50 mag that relates to that number of Dots up so i always know how high for FT its always on 50 x for PA ranging and i know the drops for all the dots up and down
for hunting I use 10 mag and can snap shoot if needed and Zoom up if time for longer shots
I have now dropped to a 6-24 simpley as i use Night vision add ons I need a wider Field of view than 10 x offers for scanning the fields but the same prinicple works Ive stuck to my 10 x mag as i know it so 20 x is 2 dots up and 6 x is not quite 1/2 dot down hat 5x would be
tho again Ive switches to 17HMR that is so flat the Dots arnt worth using its within a 1" kill from 1/2" low @ 36 yrds upto to a 50yrd zero the 1/2" high at 80yrds down to Zero again at 105yrds and 1/2" low @ 115yrds
have used a 10-50 x 56 for a couple decades for FT HFT and hunting in 177 its mil dot works well with the trajectory and the magnifications I like to zero the high point of the trajectory on 1 mil dot High at 10 x mag then at multiples of 10 ie 20 30 40 and 50 mag that relates to that number of Dots up so i always know how high for FT its always on 50 x for PA ranging and i know the drops for all the dots up and down
for hunting I use 10 mag and can snap shoot if needed and Zoom up if time for longer shots
I have now dropped to a 6-24 simpley as i use Night vision add ons I need a wider Field of view than 10 x offers for scanning the fields but the same prinicple works Ive stuck to my 10 x mag as i know it so 20 x is 2 dots up and 6 x is not quite 1/2 dot down hat 5x would be
tho again Ive switches to 17HMR that is so flat the Dots arnt worth using its within a 1" kill from 1/2" low @ 36 yrds upto to a 50yrd zero the 1/2" high at 80yrds down to Zero again at 105yrds and 1/2" low @ 115yrds
Well Ive been going to the HFT for about 6 weeks now, and enjoying it.
I feel confident now, I could take rabbits or wood pigeons for the table.
Im still just using a 4xmag scope with no mildots, zeroed at thirty yards. JSB 16 grains Match direct.
This is 6 pellet grouping at 30 yards sitting down on my drive: Do ya reckon these would all be kill shots? Or are the ones in the eye maim shots?
I feel confident now, I could take rabbits or wood pigeons for the table.
Im still just using a 4xmag scope with no mildots, zeroed at thirty yards. JSB 16 grains Match direct.
This is 6 pellet grouping at 30 yards sitting down on my drive: Do ya reckon these would all be kill shots? Or are the ones in the eye maim shots?
Attachments
The ones in the eye are not kill shots(normally). The consensus seams to be an area of a 5 pence piece just behind the eye. Someone please correct me if I'm mistaken.
Odds are through the eye will kill them because at the very least it'll remove the front part of the brain. The 5p is aiming for the apricot and brainstem you can tell by how they drop where you've hit em with experience
That's what I would do. It's how I got a lot of my permission. You'll get knocked back a lot but the odd one will say yes. And get insurance before you do anything. Sporting shooters association is the cheapest ive found. Maybe play around with other stances and shooting off hand to increase your chances.
Learn to dispatch them properly too. I use the stretch technique, I know people that push back the head. None are wrong just find one that works
Obviously youve a wealth of experience and Ive not even entered a field with a gun yet, so a bit confused!
But i was told that with a .22 air rifle, I should be aiming for a kill shot, head shot within 30 yards.
Like this kinda thing for instance:
[video=youtube;ci3iiEFIujI]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ci3iiEFIujI[/video]
No I had missed one critical word "air" and that is why I thought the advice was out of whack.
I no longer do a lot of air rifle in fairness. I used to have a rookery where we would shoot Branchers on a magical weekend in April/May when the young crows were mobile but the leaves not fully formed. They were massive bags and all with air guns. On the way back from that festival I had a bank where with good fieldcraft you could get in on some of the young rabbits basking. They were 30m head shots. Shot placement is key with an air rifle. Much over 30m and they run out of lethal energy.
I have mainly downland now. 100m now is more usual. Depends on your ground.
Air rifles have their place but a .410 and a .22 or .17 HMR will expand your options no end.
I'll delete my original post as not relevant.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I no longer do a lot of air rifle in fairness. I used to have a rookery where we would shoot Branchers on a magical weekend in April/May when the young crows were mobile but the leaves not fully formed. They were massive bags and all with air guns. On the way back from that festival I had a bank where with good fieldcraft you could get in on some of the young rabbits basking. They were 30m head shots. Shot placement is key with an air rifle. Much over 30m and they run out of lethal energy.
I have mainly downland now. 100m now is more usual. Depends on your ground.
Air rifles have their place but a .410 and a .22 or .17 HMR will expand your options no end.
I'll delete my original post as not relevant.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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you are on the right track. Learn that air rifle mate. It will teach you more about shooting and fieldcraft than powder burners
Mick91, if you arent on there already
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&s...mdp2yDNi_YdS1s1SA&sig2=5qCgxIuf-JiMt0nltvfYGQ
THE place for all your n.v needs (even if i do say so myself )
Mick91, if you arent on there already
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&s...mdp2yDNi_YdS1s1SA&sig2=5qCgxIuf-JiMt0nltvfYGQ
THE place for all your n.v needs (even if i do say so myself
)
One commonly overlooked aspect of scope design is the size of the exit pupil of light.
It won't matter at all what the light gathering capacity of the scope is if that does not match
the diameter of the pupil of your sighting eye. Simple as that. You have to pick one that "fits" you, like shoes.
I live in the Rocky Mountains. Wild game abounds. Game-Spotting is a daily adventure when company comes to visit.
I have a rock solid surveyor's tripod with spike feet and stirrups to jump into the ground.
I top that off with a Nikon Prostaff 82mm spotting scope (20X - 60X.) They don't come cheap.
But, the "old man" can spot game and put on a show anytime you come up here.
The light gathering capacity of that 82mm lens at dusk made it worth every dollar. About $600 of them.
It won't matter at all what the light gathering capacity of the scope is if that does not match
the diameter of the pupil of your sighting eye. Simple as that. You have to pick one that "fits" you, like shoes.
I live in the Rocky Mountains. Wild game abounds. Game-Spotting is a daily adventure when company comes to visit.
I have a rock solid surveyor's tripod with spike feet and stirrups to jump into the ground.
I top that off with a Nikon Prostaff 82mm spotting scope (20X - 60X.) They don't come cheap.
But, the "old man" can spot game and put on a show anytime you come up here.
The light gathering capacity of that 82mm lens at dusk made it worth every dollar. About $600 of them.