What grade grit paper ?

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Paullyfuzz

Full Member
Sep 28, 2007
1,339
0
Manchester
Never having used abrasive paper to sharpen before, I was wondering what type and grits to use in order to sharpen my axe ? I'm quite keen to usethe mouse mat method but don't know what grits to use.
Can I get it from B&Q or will I have to get them from a specialist retailer ?
Cheers

Paul
 
I bought a pack from B&Q with 400, 600 & 800 in it. I finish off with a roll of 1200 which I've had for years, the 1200 isn't really necessary but it puts a nice mirrored finish to the blade.
 
yeah you'll be it able to get it from B&Q, any grit from 200 to 10'000 will be fine (obviously with various results depending in the gritt) i got a pack from Focus which was 200, 400 and 600 :)

TJ
 
10,000 grit!
Where do you get this from? It's a new one on me.

Useful for repolishing the mirror on the hubble space telescope. :lol:

You could split atoms if you sharpened with this :)
 
10k :yikes:
i only go to 400 and then a good strop on a leather belt
can just about shave with it, not very well i must admit, but it will do for me

i use oakey wet and dry 180,280 and 400, comes in a pack of 1x180 2x280 and 1x400 (from b&q)

first minute of this says it all
[video=youtube;QuOlGGl97dI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuOlGGl97dI[/video]
 
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I have some micromesh cloths ranging from 1500 grit up to 12,000 grit, although I don't use them for sharpening just polishing. I have wet and dry papers up to 2400 grit that I use for sharpening and that sorts me out fine to get a shaving edge.
 
Cheers chaps. Got some from B&Q but they only have up to 600. Any tips on techniques when using the mouse mat ? I gather no circular movements and not to lead with the edge ?

Paul
 
Halfords do mixed grit emery going down to 1200, 600 is a fairly coarse edge, fine for general work but not the mirror polish required for say fine woodcarving.

Technique is simply register the bevel on the emery (rock back and forth till you are confident you can feel it is flat on the paper) then with gentle downward pressure from the fingers of your left hand on the blade draw it across the paper. Use a marker pen on the bevel and after a few passes look to see if the ink has been removed and if not adjust your technique to get the areas you missed.

Contrary to most peoples advice I find time spent on the coarsest grit is most important. Do not move on until you are absolutely sure you have removed metal from both sides all the way along the edge. Then it takes only a few strokes on each grit as you go down through the finer grits.
 
Contrary to most peoples advice I find time spent on the coarsest grit is most important. Do not move on until you are absolutely sure you have removed metal from both sides all the way along the edge. Then it takes only a few strokes on each grit as you go down through the finer grits.

Critical advice right there.
 

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