...safer as it is more difficult to stab yourself with it.
I'm sorry to say this but I find the opposite to be true, if your edge is straight you're cutting with just the tip (up to the thickness of the material plus a little extra due to angle-of-attack). With a bellied blade you use a sheering cut, thereby using more of the cutting edge and so dulling it less (and more generally so you don't have to sharpen just one point on your knife)cutting flat material against a cutting board,
I've always liked a straight edge for use 'in hand' as a general purpose blade, maybe not the best for really fine carving (as in removing fag paper thicknesses from the outside of a Kuksa) but really good for what the Sheeps-foot blade was designed for, clean cutting of a tough material (in this case sheep hoof ) under difficult conditions ( as sheep wriggle and you're bent over) all day if you had to.However, for general outdoor use the belly is important and to have a blade without a belly will handicap you more than the straight edge will help.
I'm sorry to say this but I find the opposite to be true, if your edge is straight you're cutting with just the tip (up to the thickness of the material plus a little extra due to angle-of-attack). With a bellied blade you use a sheering cut, thereby using more of the cutting edge and so dulling it less (and more generally so you don't have to sharpen just one point on your knife)
My EDC is a Stockman pattern folder - I find the combination of clip, spey, and lambsfoot blades covers most eventualities.
One thing I have wondered though... Where did the name come from?
Well too each their own, but I have yet to figure how to cut out card, lino, or leather on a cutting board using the belly of a normal knife. The craft and Stanley knives sold for this purpose all have straight edges. Cutting with the tip works against straight edges, and for cutting tight curves.