Wet and dry paper for scandi grind sharpening

[Slaphead]

I've decided to try wet and dry for sharpening my Moras.

If somebody could kindly tell me the top and bottom ends of grit sizes which fall into the medium category for sharpening, I will then know which are considered fine and which coarse.

Thank you.

 

[mikehill]

I just use 600 then 1200, works for me. Strop afterwards if you are fussy.

 

[Slaphead]

Thanks Mike

 

[mikehill]

You’ll nearly always just need a touch up on the 1200. The 600 is really only for small chips and rolled edges etc...

 

[Jay_jay27]

You’ll nearly always just need a touch up on the 1200. The 600 is really only for small chips and rolled edges etc...

100% I have a roll of each but Mike is right

 

[falcon]

I remember watching Ben Orford do sharpening demos at the Bushcraft Show 7 or 8 years ago and I’m pretty sure he used only 600 grit Followed by stropping....he used sheets from a large belt sander on a home made jig. He uses alternative products which he has available for sale nowadays. What is noticeable is that after some use some of the aggression is removed from the grit and the sheets become smoother as the grit is worn off. Nowadays I use a small board with 600/1500 which works really well...I only resort to a diamond stone to deal with any more serious problems..

 

[bobnewboy]

I use this stuff, in 1200 and 2500 grit, followed by stropping. I stick a piece of the tape in each grade to opposite sides of a piece of float glass. It seems expensive on first glance, but I have only used one piece of each since I bought it 18 months back, and it still works well.

 

[mikehill]

Thanks for that, I’ll get some tomorrow as it saves me using stinky spray adhesive !

 

[C_Claycomb]

Spray adhesive and double sided, can be a real pain to remove after a while. I have some 12mm float glass, and getting adhesive off involves scraping and scrubbing with dedicated adhesive remover solvent.

In the case of the Hermes self adhesive film, if you do not remove all the hardened residue when you refresh the film, you get bumps that transfer through to the abrasive face. Yeah, I knew that, and still neglected to do a full clean a month ago, so this is fresh in my mind!

Tip for sticking down abrasive paper.
When using normal abrasive paper, you can help with the clean removal of double sided by using 14-day masking tape (I like 3M blue universal 2090 tape, but there are others). Masking tape on the surface, then the double sided, then the abrasive paper. The double sided is much cleaner to remove off your glass, varnished wood, Corian, Tufnol, etc sharpening board.

While 600 and 1200 are the most common range for sharpening, I fairly regularly use 220 and 400 for repairing badly dinged edges, or re-shaping bevels that are too obtuse. Someone uses a Mora to cut bacon against a cast iron griddle, you don't want to be taking the damage out with 600. Roll out 120grit! Also, if you are trying to take a 40deg edge to 28deg, it can take a very long time with 600grit.

 

[The Frightful]

British Red posted this gem
httpps://bushcraftuk.com/community/threads/five-pound-sharpening-kit.11571/