I recently (well, 3 weeks ago...) found some Nikwax 'Cotton Proof' in a box in the back of the cupboard. I think I'd got it as a freebie at some point but it was about to go out of date so I thought I'd better use it.
I have a pair of Fjallraven Greenland trousers and a Fjallraven Montt jacket, both made of their G1000 polycotton mix. Normally, it is recommended (by Fjallraven, oddly enough) that you use their Greenland wax blocks to add water resistance to the products. I wanted to see what difference - if any - it would make using cotton proof.
I used the correct amount of fluid (i.e., all of it!) in one of those squashy plastic tubs you can get for gardening or putting your washing in. I used a couple of buckets of hand hot water and thoroughly wetted the jacket and trousers. After about 10 minutes, I rinsed both items (actually a lot easier than rinsing my OMM Kamleika smock when I reproofed it in April - that took a hosepipe!) and hung them out to dry.
I was doing some tree surgery the next day for a colleague and wore the trousers all day as I was using a handsaw, not a chainsaw. It rained on and off and I wore the jacket packing/unpacking and walking to and from the job site.
The cotton proof does not 'proof' the cotton - what it does seem to do is add a durable water repellent (DWR) coating to the material, as you could see the water beading on the surface, even in a medium shower. However, once the DWR is overwhelmed, the material wets out as usual. G1000 does, however, dry very quickly and the DWR coating does not affect drying time.
It's been OK for 3 weeks now and doesn't seem to have lost the DWR properties on the jacket. The trousers have been more heavily used and so are starting to absorb water again, especially at the knees.
In comparison with the Greenland wax, Nikwax Cotton Proof seems to have a similar effect but, being water-based, is claimed to be more environmentally friendly. I would also argue that it's less of a faff to use than the wax. However, I think the wax has its uses for reinforcing water-resistance on the seat and knees of the trousers, rather than having to re-proof the whole garment every time the DWR starts to fail in specific areas.
I haven't used any Granger's products but I suspect they will have much the same effect as the Nikwax stuff.
I'd be interested in other people's experiences with these products, especially with G1000 materials.
By the way, it's worth noting that you should NOT cotton proof Ventile fabrics as they don't need it. The absorption of water into the fibres causes them to swell and close the gaps in the material. A DWR would prevent water absorption and, so, may actually hasten entry of water through the fabric. I think. Where's John Fenna when you need him? (shines knife-shaped silhouette onto clouds from spotlight in Batman-stylee).
I have a pair of Fjallraven Greenland trousers and a Fjallraven Montt jacket, both made of their G1000 polycotton mix. Normally, it is recommended (by Fjallraven, oddly enough) that you use their Greenland wax blocks to add water resistance to the products. I wanted to see what difference - if any - it would make using cotton proof.
I used the correct amount of fluid (i.e., all of it!) in one of those squashy plastic tubs you can get for gardening or putting your washing in. I used a couple of buckets of hand hot water and thoroughly wetted the jacket and trousers. After about 10 minutes, I rinsed both items (actually a lot easier than rinsing my OMM Kamleika smock when I reproofed it in April - that took a hosepipe!) and hung them out to dry.
I was doing some tree surgery the next day for a colleague and wore the trousers all day as I was using a handsaw, not a chainsaw. It rained on and off and I wore the jacket packing/unpacking and walking to and from the job site.
The cotton proof does not 'proof' the cotton - what it does seem to do is add a durable water repellent (DWR) coating to the material, as you could see the water beading on the surface, even in a medium shower. However, once the DWR is overwhelmed, the material wets out as usual. G1000 does, however, dry very quickly and the DWR coating does not affect drying time.
It's been OK for 3 weeks now and doesn't seem to have lost the DWR properties on the jacket. The trousers have been more heavily used and so are starting to absorb water again, especially at the knees.
In comparison with the Greenland wax, Nikwax Cotton Proof seems to have a similar effect but, being water-based, is claimed to be more environmentally friendly. I would also argue that it's less of a faff to use than the wax. However, I think the wax has its uses for reinforcing water-resistance on the seat and knees of the trousers, rather than having to re-proof the whole garment every time the DWR starts to fail in specific areas.
I haven't used any Granger's products but I suspect they will have much the same effect as the Nikwax stuff.
I'd be interested in other people's experiences with these products, especially with G1000 materials.
By the way, it's worth noting that you should NOT cotton proof Ventile fabrics as they don't need it. The absorption of water into the fibres causes them to swell and close the gaps in the material. A DWR would prevent water absorption and, so, may actually hasten entry of water through the fabric. I think. Where's John Fenna when you need him? (shines knife-shaped silhouette onto clouds from spotlight in Batman-stylee).
