The perfect Bushcraft knife!

[Graham_S]

also try not to round off the spine so it can strike a firesteel.
i'll vote wyldwood too, great name. can't wait for this one.

 

[Hellz]

Any plans for file lines along the back as a thumb grip like on the grohmann?

Files lines would be great, it will help the grip in the absence of the Spyderco 'Hump'

Hellz

 

[Martyn]

Great pics Hoodoo, thanx much.

Martyn, we ground the first pattern full flat as I needed to do an edge retention run on the CATRA. When we test mules, we grind flat with consistent edge angles so the tests are comparable. We've not tested 52100 yet so this is a good opportunity.

Thanks Sal, makes a lot of sense, comparing apples with apples.

On the modern ("NASA") version, we'll more than likely go full flat as I believe that market will prefer the full flat grind.

I agree. It'll be interesting to see which knife sells better in which area.

On the "traditional" version, we're open. There does seem to be some differences in preference.

I must say that I am a bit confused by the seemingly contradictory statements of "scandi" grind requiring a "flat" flat stone, and the "sharpening on a rock" adaptability.

I do not think that I could sharpen a scandi grind on a rock and do a good job.

I dont think it's about doing a good job, just an adequate job.

Sal, it's about ideals. How many 4x4 owners take their vehicle off road? Not many, but they still want one. How many people buy a technical mountain coat and only ever go shopping in it?

The point is, people want ideals and bushcraft is no different. I'll probably get flamed for this but... probably 90% of bushcrafters could get buy just fine with a frosts mora. So why buy anything else?

because they want to buy the ideal.

You see a bushcrafter may start out having hardly any use for a knife, for them almost any knife will do. As they progress, their tools become more specialised. The ultimate aim is to live in the woods, entirely self sufficiently, making what they need from the environment. They want to take the bare minmum of consumable western items and the kit that finds favour is usually low tech, tough, long lasting, durable, sustainable and environment friendly.

In most cases, people dont go nearly as far as actually living for extended periods in the woods, but that doesnt change their kit choices.

It's not that a bushcraft knife actually will be sharpened on a rock, it's that it could be sharpened on a rock. It most cases, it never will, but that doesnt matter. Many bushcrafters carry a DC3 or DC4, either is capable of putting an excellent edge on any knife, but that's not the point. To say to someone, have X because you dont really need Y, is like saying have a family saloon, because you dont need a 4x4. They will nod in agreement, then go out and buy the 4x4 anyway.

The only thing that really impacts on this is steel choice. Carbon, yeah, stainless no. Grind doesnt matter as whatever grind was on the knife, it would just get a small secondary bevel by sharpening on a rock. No big deal, some scandi's have secondary bevels anyway. In fact I would think in a pinch, it's easier to get a knife sharp on a rock, with a zero bevel scandi that any other grind profile - because you are changing the profile, rather than going with it.

 

[Martyn]

...same thing applies to grinds. If you were making me a custom knife, I'd probably ask for a full flat, as that's my personal favourite and suits most of the things I do. But I'm not a bushcrafter and dont pretend to be one. My personal needs in a knife are not really for the extensive woodcarving that a bushcraft tool should be.

I would still buy a bushcraft knife though and use it for those times/trips where I felt like I wanted to play. So if you ask me what grind should a bushcraft knife be, the answer has to be something different to what grind do I personally prefer.

 

[sal.]

I think I'm going to change the "butt" a bit, it's a little "hot" (uncomfortable) at one point which needs to be softened. I'll know more when I begin carving the handle.

"Jimping" (file lines) on the spine in front of the handle. How long should the jimping be?

Spine must be sharp to work firesticks.

Hi TomTom, yes, the dimensions are as indicated.

Thanx for the input Martyn. Next, what is the ideal inclusive angle for a scandi grind?

thanx again.

sal

 

[Nemisis]

Jimping first 25 mm works for me. Maybe just the next 25 mm flat ground to give a dedicated area for using the firesteel?
Dave.

 

[British Red]

Yep about an inch of jimping (cool - new word )

Red

 

[Martyn]

Thanx for the input Martyn. Next, what is the ideal inclusive angle for a scandi grind?

I've got 40 degrees in me head Sal, but I've no idea where from. Somewhere, in the depths of me brain, it's been discussed and that figure has been logged, but I cant give you references or rationalle.

 

[Hoodoo]

Don't know if this will help since its bias is mainly woodcarving but this is from Wille Sundqvist in Swedish Carving Techniques:

New knives are often factory grouind with very acute edge angles. It the case of the Mora knife, the edge angle is usually 19 to 20 degrees. A few manufacturers grind their knives to even more acute angles. Knives with very acute edge angles are not able to withstand much use without chipping, and therefore must be rounded somewhat to support the edge. This is more or less what happens in the factory when the knives are ground and polished. The knife pictured below [a Frosts mora] is a new knife, as it came from the manufacturer. The enlargement shows part of the blade and the bevel, and a narrow line at the very edge. This narrow line is the ever-so-slightly rounded edge reflecting light. A knife like this will work fine for hunting, fishing, cutting vegetables and stripping electrical wires. It will even work for wasting large quantities of wood when roughing out blanks. But it will not work well when you want to shape objects and finish carve. For precise carving and detail work, you need to have exact control over the amount of wood being removed. This kind of carving requires that the bevel be flat and not rounded in the least.


This pic shows how the bevel he is referring to is measured.

 

[Andy]

I've got 40 degrees in me head Sal, but I've no idea where from.

I think that's what the woodlore is. The Bearclaw field knife is 40total
I think a little more acute is fine and would just say between 30 and 40 total. The mora I have is 23total and it's too acute, my knife with a trond blade works out about 30 and I have no trouble with chipping

 

[British Red]

I like a fairly narrow angle. The best scandy I have has a 6mm bevel on 3mm steel which (if O level trig serves) is about 30 degrees. Its O2 steel and never chips

Red

 

[sal.]

We're doing the math on a 30 degree Scandi on a 3mm thick blade.

sal

 

[Andy]

a 6mm bevel on a 3mm thick blades give you an inclusive angle of 30degrees give or take

 

[Andy]

5.79mm bevel on a 3mm thick blade sal

 

[British Red]

Has to be done somehow

Sin 15 degrees (half angle) / 1.5mm (half depth) = hypotenuse (bevel depth)

1.5 / 0.2588 = 5.796mm


I'll get my coat

Red

 

[British Red]

Andy - pysch

But I venture to suggest that it should be 5.80mm (given the assumption of rounding up over 5)

Oh how sad I am

Red

 

[Andy]

yeh but the steel tends to come slightly under thickness. my calypso jr was meant to have 2.5mm thick steel but it was only 2.478mm

degree maths is so much less fun

 

[soup_monger]

..This is getting funny.

 

[Martyn]

Given that it is a helluva lot easier to put a small rounded bevel on aftermarket, than it would be to take one off and make it true flat, would it not make sense to supply such a knife with a true zero bevel and then leave it up to the customer to round it if they want to?

 

[Martyn]

Its O2 steel and never chips

Red

What's O2 steel?