The Hoblow Stove, a homemade wood stove with fan ( 0.5Mb pics )

Glen

Life Member
Oct 16, 2005
618
1
61
London
This was my second attempt as a small fan assisted wood burning stove, inspired by Risk's Forge http://www.imrisk.com/forge/forge.htm

Warning this little project may cause you to have to find somewhere to dispose of the contents of 2 beer cans ;)

As it comes out of the 6" billy
Packed.jpg

It's actually about 0.25" too tall for the billy lid to close all the way down but the lid has a large enough lip that it doesn't cause a problem, it also still packs away inside the next size up, even when stored in the soot proof carrier bag.
Dimensions of the unit are 4" diameter by 5.25" from base to top of lid.


Taking the lid off the burner, packed inside I have the windshield/pot support, from a Green Heat base pack cooker, partly as it fitted so well http://www.simplyhike.co.uk/ProductDetails.aspx?StockID=9374
and a tealight balanced on a mini drinks can alcohol stove[1]
TopOff.jpg


Dimensions of the burner box are ( approx ) 3" diameter by 1.75" high.

( Wind )Shields up
Windshield.jpg


Taking the burner box out to show how the blower unit packs away.
Bottom left is the lid with alcohol stove and windshield/potstand this can be used as a self cook unit as is, or replace the alcohol stove with hexy. To this end I've made a second windsheid/potstand based on the Green Heat one using metal from a beer can folded double for a bit more strength.
Top center of the picture is the fuel chamber itself, you can just make out the arrangement of ventilation holes.
Inside is the fan and blower tube inside that are the battery and wires
Above.jpg


The Hoblow Stove assembled.
Ready.jpg


I've also used it in this configuration as a heating fire, watch out for flames being blown out the opening though, I'm planning to stick some flame arresting gauze over that hole at some point ;)
Heater.jpg


And this config as a tealight lantern, which can dry wet wood in the burn chamber ready for morning ( or melt a container of snow I guess )
TeaLight.jpg



Close up of the burner box vents ( with white paper inside to help them show up )
Initailly it didn't have the small holes at the top but they do seem to help it burn cleaner, I might double them in future and see how that works.
BurnerBox.jpg


Ready to start a cooking 2 course meal?
2Courses.jpg



This accessory was an afterthought, but as it fits snuggly in the burner box cost and weis notin much ( its the end of a baked bean tin with a cross cut in it and the edges bent up ) but with the addition of a coton wool wick enables me to burn lamp oil and cookin oil in the burner box I figuered I didn't mind carrying the extra weight.
OilBurner.jpg




So there we have it, constrution was simple.
Drill some holes in the sides near the bottom of the burner box, I did the sides to stop as and stuff falling through to the bottom others may want to drill the bottom itself.
Get a sharp point and score a line from the end of a beer an blow tube onto the main container, cut this out with curved ended tin snips.
Open beer can and dispose of the contents in a way that seems fit to you, open top end wit tin opener leaving the rim on this keeps it quite strong and the inward curve at the top helps it locate in the main hole.
Push the empty beer can into main hole tight up aginst the oppersite wall and mark it were it first point sticks out the hole. This gives the size that will pack away neatly. Now take of the width of the computer fan and mark that around the circumferance. Cut off bottom off beer can, I used kitchen scissors to just under twice the length marked above. From bottom cut slots up to the original cirumferance mark, I used 4 or 5 cuts, and fold these strips inside the tube, giving a double thickness tube. Push tube onto fan and tape inplace with heat proof tape.
Your done apart from connecting up the battery and having to drink another can of beer to make a windshield/pot support. I hghily recomend the Green Heat one though as it's springy and strong but it's nice to have a second ( beer? )

Tips : Have a second battery connector with the ends taped up, this goes on the battery for storage and makes sure it doesn't short, plus is a feild replacable spare.




[1] Red Bull and ToastTopper( for flat bottom ) 8 jet holes around the outer rim, 8 jet holes around the inner rim, offset between the outer ones, 4 jet holes space about the diameter of a 10p piece. On filling the outer holes vent means meths can be poured direct into the centre and left to drain through leaving a few mls ( when it drains down to the level of the 4 inner hole ) to help prime.
 

scoops_uk

Nomad
Feb 6, 2005
497
19
54
Jurassic Coast
Nice one Glen,

Do you have any pictures of it in action? I' quite interested in the effect the fan has on smoking and flame size/type.

Scoops
 

Glen

Life Member
Oct 16, 2005
618
1
61
London
scoops_uk said:
Nice one Glen,

Do you have any pictures of it in action? I' quite interested in the effect the fan has on smoking and flame size/type.

Scoops

Doubt I could get very good pictures.

How about if PM me your address and I'll post it to you to play with for a couple of weeks, along with a undrilled spare burner box to modify to your hearts content. Probably after the Xmass post though.
 

Mike B

Tenderfoot
Feb 13, 2006
76
0
60
Wakefield West Yorks
Cheers Glen
After looking at the sierra fan assisted stove and thinking nice but I'm not paying that I'm going to make one,you've given me a few ideas to be going on with.
I will also be looking at making a control box to vary the speed of the fan from 0 rpm to full blast.Mike B...
 

Glen

Life Member
Oct 16, 2005
618
1
61
London
Mike B said:
Cheers Glen
After looking at the sierra fan assisted stove and thinking nice but I'm not paying that I'm going to make one,you've given me a few ideas to be going on with.
I will also be looking at making a control box to vary the speed of the fan from 0 rpm to full blast.Mike B...

I've been thinking of a using a variable resistor. Something to keep in mind is with the fan on 0 it's actually blocking some of the natural updraft, that's why I kept the blow tube easily detatchable and have the windshield rotateable.
With the main intake facing into a breeze it works OK without the fan. Generally I prefer to use it with the fuel hole at just over 90 degrees to the wind as the wind takes the smoke almost 90 degrees away from you while blowing straight into the intake.
 

anthonyyy

Settler
Mar 5, 2005
655
6
ireland
Thanks Glen. Have you got a spy camera in my house,- I’m working on something similar myself 

I am also exploring the possibility of using an external fan that blows air through a pipe as it seems to me that this would give much more flexibility. You could use this to fan all sorts of stoves or even an open fire. An aquarium air-pump that runs on batteries might do, although I suspect that, the capacity might not be great. You simply have to replace the plastic pipe by metal pipe in the hot areas.
 

moko

Forager
Apr 28, 2005
236
5
out there
This is great idea. I have been working on a design used by WWII prisoners of war whereby the fan is hand-turned. Its part of a project for a friend of mine who works in Africa developing fuel efficient cookers.
 

Simon E

Nomad
Aug 18, 2006
275
14
53
3rd Planet from the sun
moko said:
This is great idea. I have been working on a design used by WWII prisoners of war whereby the fan is hand-turned. Its part of a project for a friend of mine who works in Africa developing fuel efficient cookers.


I have looked at this too and the best thing I can come up with is a square cable in a sleeve (like a thin speedometer cable) that is spun with a spring loaded hand stengthener type deal, that or a thin 'pull push' deal, but with this you would only get blow on half of your effort.

I prefer the hand strengthener idea and there are some great lubes out there that will easily withstand the temps in an air forced wood stove so the fan can be in situ all the time if need be.

I dont have access to the stuff I need, but I think if we put our heads together on this site we could come up with some great stuff.
 

Glen

Life Member
Oct 16, 2005
618
1
61
London
Simon E said:
... that or a thin 'pull push' deal, but with this you would only get blow on half of your effort.

.

What about using it to power one of those bicycle pumps that work on both the push and pull strokes?
 

Chip Dale

Member
Jan 10, 2005
46
0
54
NORFOLK
Heres one that i put together a year or so ago.

Pictures here

Initially I started off with 2 stainless steel container, the type you put tea/coffee ect in, at a cost of ?1.99 each After quite a while trying to cut and drill through the steel I came up with the finished produce.

The container has a fire grate made from tin, which hold the wood above the air holes. I found that this allows the air to be drawn through the stove. I also added a spider on the top to rest my cooking pot on, which is the second container. The spider was constructed out of soft steel, once cut I then heat treated it to harden in.
Also in mine, I added a fire hatch, something the other one did not have. When closed it allowed the heat to escape through the open end better and drew more air through the air holes.

So once completed I had to trial it. The air temperature at the time of lighting was 3c and the water had been left outside for 2 hour to get it to the same temp as the air.
Lighting was easy, using some miniature feather sticks. Once going I burnt almost green pine wood, rich in sap.
Once alight and burning well, I placed the other container on to boil. 9 min later I had boiled water and a fantastic cup of tea.

All in all, not bad for a grand total of £3.98 and about 2 hours construction ,
Chip
 

Glen

Life Member
Oct 16, 2005
618
1
61
London
Simon E said:
I dont have access to the stuff I need, but I think if we put our heads together on this site we could come up with some great stuff.

I forgot to mention that I've rigged a hand cranked torch/mobile charger that can substitute for a flat battery, mainly as it's a usefull item to have anyway so I don't think of it as extra stove weight. Does the job and can be left running for short periods without cranking, which if usefull when feeding wood or stiring food, all the other manual methods I could think of didn't have that advantage, saving knee bellows or a foot pump.

A non electrical solution along the lines of the mechanisms used in Irish bagpipes might be viable.
 

Zodiak

Settler
Mar 6, 2006
664
8
Kent UK
Glen said:
I've been thinking of a using a variable resistor.
That can work but its not very efficient as when the resistor is dropping any sort of volatge it will warm up, even slightly and so use power.

A solid state switched mode power supply would be more efficient, but that is a bit fiddly and expensive.

A cheaper and more efficient solution would be a switched battery box that connected more or less cells, although you might want to conider swapping them round a regular intervals to make sure they all wear out evenly.
 

Glen

Life Member
Oct 16, 2005
618
1
61
London
I have looked at this too and the best thing I can come up with is a square cable in a sleeve (like a thin speedometer cable) that is spun with a spring loaded hand stengthener type deal, that or a thin 'pull push' deal, but with this you would only get blow on half of your effort.

I dont have access to the stuff I need, but I think if we put our heads together on this site we could come up with some great stuff.

I came across this http://www.wackywillysweb.com/campi...bo_fire_starter_ultimate_camping_utility_.php a few months back which looks like the sort of thing that would do the job. Can't think of anyway I could easily make something like it for the price, and don't really need it or the space it'd take up for myself but if Moko and his friend are interested I'd be willing to pay for one so that they could experiment with it maybe take apart to see if something similar could be made from materials that are likely to be avalable to their end users. Sounds like and interesting and worthy project.
 

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