Strop advice

[Hammock Hamster]

Hi guys,

Bit of a daft question about stroping in general and compounds specifically.

I've had a good quality shop bought strop (originally meant for straight razors) for years now and use it regularly but have just come to question if I am using it correctly.

I always get a good finish to the edge of a blade when I use it and tend to use the rough side (if rough is the right word) first then the smooth side.

Can anyone tell me if this is correct or if I should be using just one side specifically?

I'm also keen on trying a stroping compound which I've not done before and want to know a, what I should be looking for in terms of compound/paste and b, if I should be using it on rough or smooth side of the strop.

Cheers, Hamster

 

[norca]

jewllers rouge blue is what i use

 

[Kepis]

I use the rough side of the strop when im stropping, for a polishing compound i use Flexcut Gold

 

[stuey]

Rough side of leather up, smooth side glued to a flat piece of wood.
I use Starkie blue which will be back in stock later this week.

 

[Perrari]

I use the rough side as well, but never used paste and get good results without it.

 

[Ogri the trog]

If it is a proper barbers strop, it will be about as good quality as you can get.

Flesh side up is great, as is using a good stropping compound.

Some popular misconceptions are;
1, Old charity shop belts make good strops - they can make passable strops, but are generally made of clothing grade (i.e. soft) leather which allows the abrasive grains to sink into the material, masking their cutting abilities.
2, Any old metal polish will do - again it might work for some, but the dedicated stropping compounds will be of finer grades, meaning a higher quality of finish.
3, The popular view of a barber "wiping" a blade over a strop is the right technique - this might work for very thin bladed open razors, but the better technique is to carefully and consistently control the speed, angle and pressure applied to gain a higher quality stropping action.

Also, don't forget to clean the strop surface to prevent it becoming clogged with compound and carrier wax.

ATB

Ogri the trog

 

[mountainm]

MDF works as wells as any leather - just rub the stropping compound on.

 

[Stringmaker]

On the course I just finished, one of the instructors did a demo of his method on his Woodlore knife.

1000 Whetstone: 8 strokes with firm pressure on each side then 8 alternating

6000 Whetstone: As above

Strop: Using his thick leather belt with no compound and 25 firm, controlled strokes on alternate sides (50 in total)

I was always confused about how much pressure to use when sharpening/stropping and having seen him do that and then been able to test the edge he got I am not confused any more.

 

[Hammock Hamster]

ok so it seems the rough/flesh side is the way to go - as i said ive never had bad results from it just curious how it "should" be used.

Does using a stropping offer any significant benefit, i should have mentioned i use a 1000/6000 waterstone for sharpening and honing first and just like to use the strop to finish it off/remove any micro burrs etc...

Cheers, Hamster

 

[stuey]

Does using a stropping offer any significant benefit,



Cheers, Hamster

It will take an edge from sharp to hair poppingly sharp. I rarely use stones these days... Just strop regularly using a wooden backed strop and compound.
As others have said MDF and Leather are both inherently abrasive, the addition of compound speeds up the process.
Either glue your leather to a flat piece of wood or put it on a flat firm surface to strop on. The deformation of the leather surface sets the correct stropping angle. If you use a belt suspended from a hook the over deformation of the leather due to stretch and no support behind will round off the very edge you are trying to hone. Suspended strops are great for straight razors but not for knives or axes.
When we run spoon carving workshops all of the edged tools are stropped before during and after the workshop. I've not used a stone on any of them for over 2 years and our stuff gets a lot of use!
Happy stropping. Drop me a pm if you want to chat about it.
Stu

 

[Hammock Hamster]

It will take an edge from sharp to hair poppingly sharp. I rarely use stones these days... Just strop regularly using a wooden backed strop and compound.
As others have said MDF and Leather are both inherently abrasive, the addition of compound speeds up the process.
Either glue your leather to a flat piece of wood or put it on a flat firm surface to strop on. The deformation of the leather surface sets the correct stropping angle. If you use a belt suspended from a hook the over deformation of the leather due to stretch and no support behind will round off the very edge you are trying to hone. Suspended strops are great for straight razors but not for knives or axes.
When we run spoon carving workshops all of the edged tools are stropped before during and after the workshop. I've not used a stone on any of them for over 2 years and our stuff gets a lot of use!
Happy stropping. Drop me a pm if you want to chat about it.
Stu

Cheers Stu,

Ive just noticed a typo on my previous post, it should have said is there any significant to using a stropping compound as oppsoed to just a strop on its own.

Im guessing no if its just for basic maintenance of the edge before and after use then no but though id throw it out there.

Cheers, Hamster

 

[pauljm116]

I use a strop made by Luckylee which is wood backed with the rough side facing up (the rough side holds the compound better) with smurf poo (starkie blue compound) and have good results - my left forearm is usually bald! As has already been said stropping takes a sharp edge and takes it to a new level of sharpness, I was always dubious of the benefits of stropping, after all how is a piece of leather going to sharpen steel, but after getting one I can honestly say I dont use sharpening stones very often at all, just a quick strop every now and again keeps my blades shaving sharp.

 

[stuey]

Hi Hamster
No probs.
The compound speeds the whole process up without doubt. You may also see a brighter, mirrored edge than with plain leather alone but that's just opinion.
There are lots of compounds out there including good old autosol (chrome polish) which you can pick up from halfords ot other motoring shops. I am biased toward starkie blue having tried most of the other compounds as it gives me a scarily sharp edge in very little time and the compound itself is nicely portable and won't burst in your rucksac as I've seen autosol do. Either click the link in my sig or google for more info on starkie.
Strops and compound are our "go to" sharpening method and we only use stones if there are serious dings to sort out generally after a student drops a tool on the deck
Most definitely a little and often approach though.
I never fail to smile when I use my axes as they are all shaving sharp, something I've never achieved with stones alone nor when I used to use a leather belt to strop. Being able to pass a wooden backed strop over the axe really makes an enormous difference on angles and thus edge.

 

[Big Stu 12]

There are lots of compounds out there including good old autosol (chrome polish) which you can pick up from halfords ot other motoring shops. I am biased toward starkie blue having tried most of the other compounds as it gives me a scarily sharp edge in very little time and the compound itself is nicely portable and won't burst in your rucksac as I've seen autosol do. .

I keep my sharpening kit, small stone, a bit of wet and dry, it of rolled up belt and a old tube of autosol (last couple of squirts left in the tube). in a small metal tin, keeps it all tidy and no bursting... I also use the tin for making charcloth...