spalted beech burl kuksa

[Hibrion]

Hi all,

I saved a piece of beech burl from the wood pile today that would be a lovely size for a kuksa, however it has a bit of spalting in it and I was wondering if it would be safe to use for this purpose?

I've been googling but can't seem to find the answer.

Thanks

 

[Monikieman]

Never heard anything to the contrary. (But that doesn't mean it's safe).

Heard/read lots about boiled linseed but nothing about spalting.

Seems a desireable quality and often used in wood turning so can't see a problem. I think the fungus will be dead once the wood drys.

Sorry can't help anymore.

 

[Harvestman]

Strictly speaking, spalting makes it non-foodsafe.

Practically, if the wood is well sealed with an appropriate oil, it isn't really an issue.

 

[Hibrion]

Thanks, fellas. I've used walnut oil in the past and a buffing with beeswax. I'm not sure how much spalting is there, so I might just make a start and see how it goes.

 

[Two Socks]

Spalted beech burl sounds wonderful! Will you show the finished item?

 

[HHazeldean]

That sounds like it'd make a fantastic kuksa! I would've thought it'd be fine once its all been sealed etc..

 

[Hibrion]

Thanks, guys. I'm sat here now roughing out the shape. It is a small log I saved with three small burrs within it and some spalting, so I'm trying to carve it to keep as much burr as possible.

It's a real coincidence I found the piece today as yesterday my other half surprised me with a little present of a mora 120 carving knife. It's a great little tool and is working nicely here now. Hopefully the finished piece will turn out ok and I won't poison myself. I will of course show a pic, if it all works out and I'm here to tell the tale... haha

 

[Macaroon]

If you're worried about spores and assorted bad things in wood go to an equine supply place (or any store that sells animal care products) and get yourself some Hibiscrub, around 10 or 12 Euros for 500 ml., mix it 50-50 with water and spray or brush it on the piece before any oil or wax. It's Chlorhexidine, and at this concentration will kill off anything that may do you any harm; as soon as it's dry you can proceed as normal.

I use this stuff on any "found" wood that comes into my workshop to avoid introducing fungal spores and insect larvae etc., and in 40 yrs. I've never had a problem. That said, I think the walnut oil topped with beeswax is going to keep you safe and sound, IMHO.

Good luck with it, and be sure to show us what you come up with!

 

[Hibrion]

Thanks for the great suggestion, Macaroon. Should I apply this stuff to the finished piece or the raw log before starting? It may be slightly too late for the latter!

My younger brother is in an equine college, so he will probably be able to sort me out with that.

 

[Macaroon]

Just put it on when you've made the rough outline, so all the bark off and the basic shape achieved, and you don't need to drench it, just wet it all over; it'll be dry in a very short time. The 500 ml. will last you a very long time and works as a very efficient hand sanitizer when dressing game etc. and you have no access to a sink and soap. It's extremely safe to use even when you can't rinse, as it's used in mouthwashes for various oral diseases.