Sooo I snapped the tip off

Lucyc

Forager
Jan 19, 2008
146
0
Somerset
I snapped the tip off of my Mora clipper *oops*.. I'm not going to tell you how I did it because you'll then all tell me off for bad knife behaviour!
But basically I was wondering how to correct that - I've read the tutorials etc but they seem to cover only everyday sharpening - not when there's some major issue like the tip being snapped off (it's only like, a millimeter of the tip..) - I was wondering how do I correct that? I have a little double sided sharpening stone thingie.. I can't remember what it's called :eek:
Do i just use the rough side of the stone and sharpen as normal until it's ground down enough? I have issues with sharpening the tip anyway so this could be a challenge..:rolleyes:

Thanks,
Lucy
 

weaver

Settler
Jul 9, 2006
792
7
67
North Carolina, USA
First dull the tip. :confused:

Ok, I'll explain, if you just sharpen it the tip will have a strange shape. So, you have to reshape the tip by wearing away the corner where it is broken.

Rub the sharp side of the tip on the stone but hold it at about a 45° angle so the edge is abrupt. Shape the new curve so it flows into the edge making a nice visual curve.

Then you can sharpen it as it was before. Work on just the tip holding the blade at a much lower angle now. They say 14 to 20 degrees, but I just look to see that the back is not completely flat on the stone and then hold it at that angle.

One tip you can use to be sure you are rubbing the right place is to use a black marker to darken the tip of the blade. Then you can easily see where the stone is rubbing. Adjust your hold until you are taking off metal in the right place.

If you do it well it will look just as it did before you broke it, only a little bit shorter. Most people won't even notice the difference.
 

Lucyc

Forager
Jan 19, 2008
146
0
Somerset
Awesome, thanks everyone - I think I've pretty much done it now, hopefully! It looks nice and curved again, anyway..
 

Dan1982

Full Member
Jan 14, 2006
1,038
147
41
Cumbria
alternatively.... buy a new one.:D thats the beauty of moras.

however a good opportunity to test your sharpening skills i suppose!
 

mariobab

Tenderfoot
Oct 30, 2006
81
0
60
croatia
On some stainless blades I intentionally break tips for some 2-5 mm if those were too narrow.I do this since tip broke on knife inside sheath,on my belt from riding on tractor trailer on bumpy road.And that really made me mad,and I was in the forest,couldn't do anything.Since then,if suspect it would break,I make it before it could happen. So I make new curve with file,which dulls section significantly ,then put some bevel still working with file,and then I go with stones,to cover the whole operation.That gives me better confidence in stainless tips.Even though I don't use stainless much any more.
 

edispilff

Forager
Mar 6, 2007
167
0
51
between the trees
Yes, if it's a really small amount, sharpen fom the edge side... if it's more than that, the easiest (and quickest/safest) is to grab a small chunk of sandpaper and work the spine down to the tip. Use a rolling motion until you get the spine down to where the tip is.
If you really want to get wild, you could end up with a sheeps foot!
 
May 25, 2006
504
7
36
Canada
www.freewebs.com
Yes, if it's a really small amount, sharpen fom the edge side... if it's more than that, the easiest (and quickest/safest) is to grab a small chunk of sandpaper and work the spine down to the tip. Use a rolling motion until you get the spine down to where the tip is.
If you really want to get wild, you could end up with a sheeps foot!

Now that is something I would not mind seeing someone on here try.. or even myself try when I buy a few more moras. I like sheepsfoots for kitchen work, when I'm dicing quick, it feels safer.. but for carving wood, I've begun to wish for a sheepsfoot tip.. not sure why.. but I think it'd be interesting.
 

edispilff

Forager
Mar 6, 2007
167
0
51
between the trees
I'm on it. Sheepsfoot style is also excellent for working with fish. The curvature on the spine reduces internal damage.. and it slides in the bung perfectly to rip straight up to the throat.
Going to order a few moras today and do some regrinding to see what comes up!
 

perpetualelevator

Tenderfoot
Jul 5, 2007
73
0
Toronto, Canada
I think you can buy a sheepsfoot Mora. Check Ragweed Forge. Not that I'm recommending you deprive yourself of the enjoyment of hours of sanding, but I don't see any reason not to just add another to the collection :)
 

perpetualelevator

Tenderfoot
Jul 5, 2007
73
0
Toronto, Canada
Yep, it's the #1240:

mora.jpg


Or you can make your own, with the KB 122, although it's more of a wharncliffe:

frosts-blades-laminated.jpg
 
May 25, 2006
504
7
36
Canada
www.freewebs.com
I'm on it. Sheepsfoot style is also excellent for working with fish. The curvature on the spine reduces internal damage.. and it slides in the bung perfectly to rip straight up to the throat.
Going to order a few moras today and do some regrinding to see what comes up!

Awesome! Lemme see what comes out of it.

The 1240 is a tad smaller than I was thinking.. I was thinking the regular basic bushcraft Mora, but dust round down the tip.

As for fish cleaning, I never thought of that.. makes me curious how good they'd be at cleaning the moose next fall.. I think.. I have plans :D
 

edispilff

Forager
Mar 6, 2007
167
0
51
between the trees
Yessir, as soon as the dollar gets a little stronger :eek: ...
Did, however, manage to do a reforge on a reciprocal saw blade and whip out a nice little fishing cleaner/gutter. Tried it out on a fox the other day and It is as sharp and comfortable as any knife out there. The tail split perfectly straight without having to use a guide!
I think the edge ended up a little harder than expected.. from the time it takes on my stone, it's about 60-61HrC... without the scale!

Anyhow, i may dig up some old metal scraps, and try to duplicate a mora with a modified sheepsfoot blade sometime this week.
 

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