Could anyone tell me the best way to season holly. I have tried to take holly for a bow drill set and each time the wood cracks on drying :-( .
seasoning hollywood
- Thread starter foxy
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I've only seasoned holly to make walking sticks from but I'm sure that the same applies.
Firstly, time is the key, and not rushing the process. I season all my wood for at least twelve months, and that's if it's cut in the winter when the sap content is low. Anything cut from early spring onwards would, in my opinion take at least another three months.
I think that it's important not to force the drying process, so I dont use airing cupboards, hot presses or the back of the range etc. I have a pitched roof shed and the cut wood gets stacked on the joists so that the air can circulate around it. I've also hung the wood in bundles from roof joists.
I always leave the bark on during the seasoning process, I'm not sure if it makes a difference but I've never had a problem with wood splitting whilst seasoning.
As holly is such a dense wood I think that it is even more important to take time to season it. Blackthorn is similarly dense and needs careful seasoning.
I hope that this helps.
Firstly, time is the key, and not rushing the process. I season all my wood for at least twelve months, and that's if it's cut in the winter when the sap content is low. Anything cut from early spring onwards would, in my opinion take at least another three months.
I think that it's important not to force the drying process, so I dont use airing cupboards, hot presses or the back of the range etc. I have a pitched roof shed and the cut wood gets stacked on the joists so that the air can circulate around it. I've also hung the wood in bundles from roof joists.
I always leave the bark on during the seasoning process, I'm not sure if it makes a difference but I've never had a problem with wood splitting whilst seasoning.
As holly is such a dense wood I think that it is even more important to take time to season it. Blackthorn is similarly dense and needs careful seasoning.
I hope that this helps.
if you can immerse it in water for 3 or 4 days this may help
seems to wash a lot of the sap out of the wood and replace it with water which then leaves much easier than the original sap
Tant
seems to wash a lot of the sap out of the wood and replace it with water which then leaves much easier than the original sap
Tant
I had a section of holly log, about 10" diameter, it split like you wouldn't believe!! I put waterproof wood glue over the ends to seal them and slow down the drying, but probably should have run the glue several inches up the trunk from the cuts.
I had the wood in an uninsulated garage and it may have got too warm in the summer. Off the ground and in the open might have been better.
I wonder if there are any wood turning/cabinet making forums out there where you could ask?
I had the wood in an uninsulated garage and it may have got too warm in the summer. Off the ground and in the open might have been better.
I wonder if there are any wood turning/cabinet making forums out there where you could ask?
Yep. Leave the bark on. You may want to do as chris sugested above and use something to cover the ends. I use wax for this and cover then ends to seal them and run it about 2-3+ inches down the branck/trunck. This slows the drying process down as it takes more time for the moisture to go through the bark. If you don't seal the ends, moisture will pass faster through them and split. Remember, splitting happens because part of the wood is drying faster than another part. If you are using heat to dry wood, make sure it is even and the air can circulate well.
Ed
Ed said:
Yep I do this too. If it's small diameter stuff, the easiest way (I've found) is to melt a load of wax in a pot and then dip the wood in.
I've also used a wax that is water soluble before. You need a container big enough to fit the piece of wood. You then put the wood, water and the wax in the container and the wax replaces the water in the wood. I can't remember how long it takes as it's a few years since I've done this, but it's quicker than seasoning although it still takes a while.
What size are the pieces of wood you want to season?
Thats it
... Exactly the same as I do it.... Don't forget to use an 'old' pot and not the band new ones hanging in the cupboard ;-) (advice for adi really)Ed
Amazing lengths you lot will go to! :shock:
Personally I just make sure my wood is large than I need it to be - allow it to slowly air seaon and then if it does crack as some types of wood are bound to do I just cut off the split peice or use the crack i.e in splitting or some such.
Did you know its believed to be unlucky to cut down Holly? Holly was believed to ward off evil spirits and witches! :evil:
Personally I just make sure my wood is large than I need it to be - allow it to slowly air seaon and then if it does crack as some types of wood are bound to do I just cut off the split peice or use the crack i.e in splitting or some such.
Did you know its believed to be unlucky to cut down Holly? Holly was believed to ward off evil spirits and witches! :evil:
Gary said:
Most of the time I would be drying wood in the way I described is if it was for wood turning - lose a bit off the end due to a crack (if you want a flawless finish) and you lose quite a bit of size from the finished item. It's not always possible to have the wood oversized, plus with some bits ie Yew, you don't want to waste anything!
Fair enough, I know very little about turning but doesnt turning the wood when green work better? Im sure the old bodgers used to work green only.
Or do you use a modern lathe so it doesnt matter?
Or do you use a modern lathe so it doesnt matter?
Gary said:
It does but it depends on what you want to do. If you turn a bowl fresh from the tree it will turn beautifully (nice big streams of shavings! :-D ) and if you turn it thin enough it won't crack when it dries. However, it might warp. This can look good but sometimes you don't want this to happen. If you turn a box then you want the lid to fit well - you need it to be dry first!
IIRC you're right about the bodgers. They used to rough turn green then when the bits were dry (would be quicker as less to dry) they would turn them again. You can do the same with bowls, etc.
Yes I use a modern lathe (although not for a few years now) as opposed to a pole lathe that bodgers would use.
Cool, thanks Stew - in reality its similar to the advice I give when carving spoons. Namely carve out the blank first then leave it over night (at least) to settle befor going into the fine work and sanding.
There's a product called PEG (Poly Ethylene Glycol?) that is supposed to season wood more quickly, with less risk of splitting.
Ask the people at Craft Supplies (www.craft-supplies.co.uk) for advice.
Keith.
Ask the people at Craft Supplies (www.craft-supplies.co.uk) for advice.
Keith.
PEG is also used in the presevation of wood, like in the Mary Rose. It works by replacing the water. So, i'm not sure if it would season it or just put plastic into it? But i'm no expert.
Hi Keith - yes PEG is Poly Ethylene Glycol - used exactly as you describe for faster seasoning of timber prior to turning.
Make up a barrel full and chuck in the timber, leave it until the PEG displaces the water, then you can pull it out and leave it to dry with much less risk of splitting. I've read about the technique, seem to remember that it allowed you to reduce 12 months plus seasoning time down to maybe 6 weeks.
I don't think it changes the wood in any significant way - this isn't the same as impregnating wood with plastic resin to stabilise it.
Cheers
Make up a barrel full and chuck in the timber, leave it until the PEG displaces the water, then you can pull it out and leave it to dry with much less risk of splitting. I've read about the technique, seem to remember that it allowed you to reduce 12 months plus seasoning time down to maybe 6 weeks.
I don't think it changes the wood in any significant way - this isn't the same as impregnating wood with plastic resin to stabilise it.
Cheers
