sealing tree wounds

[_scorpio_]

can anyone tell me how to seal the branches of a tree after removing them? i am planning to take some willow branches from a tree in my garden that needs a prune and will be cutting them off as close to the tree as i can, but is it possible to seal it because i would like to keep the tree healthy and possibly take more branches in the future. from what i have seen from other cut trees there seems to be something like wax or plastic melted on it, but wouldn't this harm the tree?

 

[phill_ue]

Willow is quite a prolific tree, I wouldn't bother as it will naturally "scab" over by growing bark over the area. Make sure you cut close to the branch that the smaller branch is growing from so that it can react and grow over the affected area. Any offshoots you don't use can be pushed into the ground and watered, they may take hold.

 

[Peter_t]

NEVER cover wounds!! there are many products such as wound paint which is not only a con but actually causes more harm than no sealant at all!

trees have their own defence systems to prevent fungal attack and propper pruning cuts allow the tree to grow over their wounds.



pete

 

[Mark1]

NEVER cover wounds!! there are many products such as wound paint which is not only a con but actually causes more harm than no sealant at all!

trees have their own defence systems to prevent fungal attack and propper pruning cuts allow the tree to grow over their wounds.



pete

Pete, your spot on, get the pruning cut right!
Mark (ND Hort. Arb.)

 

[addo]

Dont cut the branch off right up to the main limb or stem. Stop just before the branch bark ridge or collar which is a swelling between the two where the branch joins.
This is where the healing wood will develop and create a doughnut ring shaped reactive growth. New branches will appaer too from this, instead of dieback within the tree.

Happy pruning.

 

[maddave]

Dont cut the branch off right up to the main limb or stem. Stop just before the branch bark ridge or collar which is a swelling between the two where the branch joins.
This is where the healing wood will develop and create a doughnut ring shaped reactive growth. New branches will appaer too from this, instead of dieback within the tree.

Happy pruning.

What he said... The tree will heal itself without any action on your part. Just make sure you cut correctly

 

[_scorpio_]

very helpful, thanks!

 

[treelore]

Mad Dave is spot on with what he`s put

make the limb your cutting off manageable so when you do your final cut, you do`nt tair the bark on the main stem.

 

[milius2]

Great info! My trees (apples) thank you

 

[armie]

Tiny addition: don't make a horizontal cut; that would create a 'platform' upon which rain will collect, hindering the tree's healing.

 

[treelore]

yep the cut needs to be a mirror image

 

[armie]

A mirror image of what?

 

[maddave]

Just a naturally sloping cut so that rainwater can run off without "pooling"

 

[Peter_t]

A mirror image of what?

a mirror image of the bark branch ridge (in picture above) if you imagine a line from the top of the ridge to the bottom of the branch collar. although this is not always an exact mirror, you can usually see the branch collar and for many trees this is a better indicator. some trees have no ridge to go by and some have no obvious collar and sometimes a correct cut will look flush or even upside down for some conifers which have drooping branches.

Just a naturally sloping cut so that rainwater can run off without "pooling"

dave, this is only really relevant to coppicing, while pruning branches it is far more important to get the angle and cut in the right place (though it is rare to have a pruning cut that is horizontal.)


Pete