Most people like mesen are a fan of the scandi grind but how does it lend its sen to the bigger knife? My two main carrys are a mora companion and a 1990s issue kukri which I use for most things I just cant help wonder what a scandi edge would do to this beast? Has anyone done this? I mean it must have been designed with a secondary bevel for a reason right?
scandi grind on Kukri
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My initial thoughts would be that a scandi grind would be too fragile for an 'impact' tool. You might also have some difficulties with sharpening a blade of that size and shape with a flat scandi grind.
I'd never heard the term "scandi grind" until I joined the forum. But what y'all seem to be describing is the only way I've ever sharpened ANY blade. It's on all my knives (including my khukuri) my axes, my hatchets and tommahawks, and all my saw blades. Never had any problems.
I suspect we may not be talking about the same format of grind, especially not on an axe. A scandi grind is as follows: imagine a cross-section through a blade. The flanks run parallel to one another until around 8mm from the edge, (depending on the starting thickness of the blade), each flank then tapers toward the edge - a single bevel per side. There is no secondary bevel. There are no set rules for the angle of these bevels, but they are usually around 15 deg, or sometimes less, per side, giving an included angle of about 30 deg.
Probably too fragile for an impact tool, but that's just my own opinion.
Probably too fragile for an impact tool, but that's just my own opinion.
Aye thats what I were thinking aside from the logistics of acheving a decent scandi edge and more importantly keeping it, would be how it held up as you dont see or hear of many big knifes with it were the sami knife(leupu I think) that got me thinking as I do use it the majority of the time for most jobs
Cheers for the input guys
Cheers for the input guys
The khukri is an all-purpose tool, meant for tasks as varied as chopping live trees to seasoned fire-wood, and from ceremonial butchery to kitchen tasks. Therefore any single grind applied to such a variable tool will be, at best, a poor compromise. Khukri's are often supplied with their own burnishing sharpener - a tool - not best suited to maintaining a "Scandi" edge. Also being made from "lorry springs" they are a softer, rather than harder steel.
All this tells me that they "need" a convex grind - admittedly varying along its length - but entirely capable of achieving the vast majority of tasks put before it, strong enough to cope with heavy chopping tasks, yet fine enough to allow semi-delicate carving. Capable of being field-maintained by its own supplied equipment until it can be workshop sharpened by other methods and completely suited to the material from which it is constructed.
Convex grind for mine!
ATB
Ogri the trog
All this tells me that they "need" a convex grind - admittedly varying along its length - but entirely capable of achieving the vast majority of tasks put before it, strong enough to cope with heavy chopping tasks, yet fine enough to allow semi-delicate carving. Capable of being field-maintained by its own supplied equipment until it can be workshop sharpened by other methods and completely suited to the material from which it is constructed.
Convex grind for mine!
ATB
Ogri the trog
Actually it sounds very much like the 'grind' I get. I was taught to sharpen a knife by placing the blade on ther stone at the desired angle (yep about 15 degreees0 and rubbing it as if trying to shave a thin slice from the stone. Same with an axe or tommahawk. It's worked for me for 50+ years.
We just never named it. We just called it sherpening.
You'll be putting a secondary thin bevel on a full-grind blade.
Scandi grind is also called 'sabre' grind. It's number 3 in the image below.
Scandi grind is also called 'sabre' grind. It's number 3 in the image below.
Maybe you're right. #2 looks more like my finished blades.
With the exception of putty knives which have a steeper version of #4
And chisels either less speet #3 or #5
With the exception of putty knives which have a steeper version of #4
And chisels either less speet #3 or #5
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Dave Canterbury done a rather good youtube Video about this
His channel is http://www.youtube.com/user/wildernessoutfitters
here is a link to his video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mIj-ijjRQ48
he goes in to some detail about each grind or bevel with pros and cons for each
His channel is http://www.youtube.com/user/wildernessoutfitters
here is a link to his video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mIj-ijjRQ48
he goes in to some detail about each grind or bevel with pros and cons for each
Kukri needs a proper Convex which can be varied along the length to give differing actions
most you buy have a final bevel on like a small secondary this needs to be taken off to achieve the proper scary cutting ability.
ahve a finer convex at the tip and at the handle and a fatter on on the belly for chopping etc
the Kukri has a complex multi combinations of bevels if you look and tried to copy by grinding the whole bald is flat ground partially the center is then on a lot hollow gound out in the wide part or heavy fullers
the final edge is a convex and then some mistakenly add the final small bevel
most you buy have a final bevel on like a small secondary this needs to be taken off to achieve the proper scary cutting ability.
ahve a finer convex at the tip and at the handle and a fatter on on the belly for chopping etc
the Kukri has a complex multi combinations of bevels if you look and tried to copy by grinding the whole bald is flat ground partially the center is then on a lot hollow gound out in the wide part or heavy fullers
the final edge is a convex and then some mistakenly add the final small bevel
Nothing at all wrong with that, if it suits your own purposes, but the starting point for an axe would mean that you would probably end up with something far more similar to a 'flat grind' with a secondary bevel, rather than a scandi. I would hazard a guess that most of your knives would have ended up the same as well.
It still wouldn't be my choice for a khukri, (for which I'd go convex, as Ogri mentioned above), but it would certainly be more suitable that the scandi the grind, which is what the OP was querying.
As I suspected. I should have read on a bit further before I responded to your previous post.
You'll be putting a secondary thin bevel on a full-grind blade.
Scandi grind is also called 'sabre' grind. It's number 3 in the image below.
I'd agree with 3 being a scandi, but a scandi and sabre are not the same. 5 is more like a sabre: parallel flanks, usually to about halfway down the depth of the blade, then tapered toward the edge, then a small secondary bevel.
Mind that with an axe and a khukuri it's mosr common that I move the stone while the blade stays stationary; as opposed to the opposite with more conventional knives.
Yep, that's the same as I do, but I do it with the deliberate intention of ending up with a convex, rather than trying to maintain a constant angle.
I have to be honest and say that a scandi grind is bog standard only kind of an edge I am capable of putting on anything.
