Scandi Grind Angle

TheViking

Native
Jun 3, 2004
1,864
4
35
.
I got confused over angles in the scandi/flat grind thread.
Can someone please enlighten me what a normal angle of a good scandi wood carver should be?

Strømeng, the leuku maker and dealer, told me that their knives had an angle of 22 degrees. In a knife book i'm loaning in the library it says 25 degrees.

What angle is the Woodlore knife for example?

Please enlighten me, as I'm confused. :shock: :roll: :?:
 

Hoodoo

Full Member
Nov 17, 2003
5,302
13
Michigan, USA
The steeper the angle, the better the edge will hold up, all things being equal. Beyond that, it becomes a matter of personal preference. Thinner means better carver but the thinner the edge, the more delicate it becomes. Again, all things being equal.

The thing to do is use your knife, compare it to others, and see if you are satisfied with it's performance. Keep in mind that small secondary bevels can really affect carving ability, especially on dried hard wood.

I think there's a lot of latitude in bevel angles for scandis that will get the job done yet still hold up well in the field. You can mix and match as well. You can have a very acute angle and put a small secondary bevel for endurance or go with a more obtuse bevel and omit the secondary bevel. Of course, the type of steel and heat treat will make a difference too. Trying to quantify all of this is like trying to drink soup with a fork. :lol:
 

shinobi

Settler
Oct 19, 2004
517
0
52
Eastbourne, Sussex.
www.sussar.org
Hoodoo said:
The steeper the angle, the better the edge will hold up, all things being equal. Beyond that, it becomes a matter of personal preference. Thinner means better carver but the thinner the edge, the more delicate it becomes. Again, all things being equal.

The thing to do is use your knife, compare it to others, and see if you are satisfied with it's performance. Keep in mind that small secondary bevels can really affect carving ability, especially on dried hard wood.

I think there's a lot of latitude in bevel angles for scandis that will get the job done yet still hold up well in the field. You can mix and match as well. You can have a very acute angle and put a small secondary bevel for endurance or go with a more obtuse bevel and omit the secondary bevel. Of course, the type of steel and heat treat will make a difference too. Trying to quantify all of this is like trying to drink soup with a fork. :lol:

You're just trying to justify your excessive collection, aren't you? :wink:

Martin
 

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