Rusting Enzo

[Pandabean]

Hey all,

Just got a bit of a problem with my enzo. It has started to develop spots of rust. It was cleaned after my last trip with it and I just recently pulled it out its sheath to find that it was spotty.

The thing is two were bought at the same time (one for me and a mate) both the same kind of blade but his has shown no sign of rust.

I have just been trying to remove them with wet and dry paper (just adding water) to some success but some spots still remain. Is there anything else I can try? I have been tempted to put it over a fine whetstone but I am slightly worried on how to sharpen it as it has a second bevel at the edge.

Has anyone else had problems with rust on enzos?

It is a D2 steel blade with a scandi grind.

Any ideas welcome.

Cheers,
Andy

 

[leon-1]

Hi Pandabean, we have had a post like this one once before. If it's D2 it shouldn't be rusting.

The last time I seem to recall that by mistake an O1 had been sent out by mistake.

Pictures of the said beastie would be helpful, just to see what sort of state it is in, but D2 doesn't corrode very easily.

 

[Pandabean]

I did find a post from a while ago and from the way it was described the entire blade was rusting and having a rusty coating on it however this is just spots. It was also found that the cause was the standard sheath and the tanin that was used. That person also described it as happening the day after he got it, for me it has been a couple of months since I got it.

I will try and get a photo taken tonight or tomorrow. I have to sort the camera out with this laptop.

I have taken quite a bit of it away but it can still be seen in some places that I havent done yet.

 

[dogwood]

Generally speaking, if you leave a knife in a sheath for a long time, you can end up with things like this, even if the blades are oiled.

If circumstances allow -- and they don't always -- it's best to store your knives outside the sheath. At least that's been my experience.

 

[Pandabean]

Ok here we go. Managed to get the camera hooked up. From the images you can see the fine spots of rust/corrosion. Not too bad but a bit of a pain to get rid of.

The full thing.

Close Ups

 

[DKW]

just take the fine honingstone and hone (is that a word?) it off. It shouldn't take away enough material for it to require a proper honing of the edge.
If it does, then its a good time to practise sharppening your tools. I'd suggest you hone the secondary bevel somewhere between 23 and 28 degrees to the blade itself, if the knife is primarily used for coarser tasks.

 

[Zammo]

I think you should contact Brisa an explain what's going. They should be able to advise you on the best course of action.

 

[Pignut]

all steel including "stainless" will "rust" best thing to prevent this is use! My grandad had a spade made of a "mild steel" though it was shiny with every day use. Or....... Polish/sharpen it off, then "pack" with oil/wax

 

[Squidders]

it's stain less, not stain proof.

all metals need to be protected when not in regular use and if you're going to store knives for a while, remember to keep them seperate from any leather sheaths.

 

[Pandabean]

That might be the reason then. I have been meaning to put Axeminster Cameilia oil on.

So if I rub it off with wet and dry and then apply the oil it should be ok?

it's stain less, not stain proof.

all metals need to be protected when not in regular use and if you're going to store knives for a while, remember to keep them seperate from any leather sheaths.

 

[ZDP-189]

D2 isn't even stainless. I'd not be surprised to see a D2 knife rusting. That doesn't make it a bad knife.

 

[leon-1]

D2 isn't even stainless. I'd not be surprised to see a D2 knife rusting. That doesn't make it a bad knife.

Yeah your right, I think the minimum requirement is something like 12% chromium content to be considered stainless and D2 has 11.5%.

I have a D2 knife (a Gene Ingram model 30) that has been all over, has been immersed in sea water, left in it's soaking sheath and generally abused. I have owned it for a good few years and to be honest I should have taken more care of it, but as yet it has not rusted.

I can't say that it's use that has kept it clean or free of rust as it's not, I have other knives that I use, some of which are nowhere near it's equal, but it's still a damned good rust free tool.

 

[Tiley]

If you hone it to get rid of your current crop of rust spots and then wipe it over with Ballistol Klever, the chances are you'll get some relief for the problem. Ballistol, though rather smelly, does the job of inhibiting rust very well and is light enough not to form a 'cake' on your blade.

Alternatively, a lot of folk use Camellia oil, favoured treatment of the Samurai for their blades, but I have no experience of it.

 

[leon-1]

Alternatively, a lot of folk use Camellia oil, favoured treatment of the Samurai for their blades, but I have no experience of it.

I have I use it on all of my knives, most things stay reasonably rust free apart from high carbon steels (Lauri PT's and frosts).

 

[Hoodoo]

Not all D2 is created equal. Same is true for a lot of steel types. At least, this is what I was told by Charlie May and I think Charlie said Gene Ingram feels the same way. I think they only buy Crucible steels. Anywho, what some folks call rust, I call patina. Kinda fond of it too. But not always. I do like my stainless.

I'm working on some patina on this ol' knife.

 

[Pandabean]

What is patina?

 

[Native Justice]

What is patina?

The patina on a blade is actually a controlled oxidation or rust layer (looks like a progressive graying in the steel from gray to black). The more you get on most knives with high carbon the more (surface) rust resistant it becomes. It also adds to the character and appearance of the knife with age. A patina can be "forced" (to speed up) which increases the rate of development of the patina. Vinager, mustard, tomato juice, citrus juices work great; sticking the knife blade in an onion, potato, grapefruit overnight all have the same affect. I've had the best results in terms of a nice uniform (gray-black) appearance with 4-5% (acetic acid) white vinager. If you don't like the affect it can be taken off with Semichrome polish, Tarnex, etc. with no real effect.

My $.02.

Be safe.

NJ

 

[ForgeCorvus]

What is patina?

The colour old metal goes due to surface oxidization (not rust)

Bronze goes chestnut
Copper goes red
Steel goes blue-grey

Its the mark of old but well cared for metal, anyone can have a shiny silver knife (or a rusty one) but patina is something else

What Native Justice said.

Sometimes people fake patina to make something new look old because they like the look, sometimes its faked to pass something new off as old (Buyer Beware ), sometimes its faked on an old item thats been 'over-restored'

 

[Hoodoo]

Keep your knife handy in the kitchen for a couple weeks or more and you can get a decent patina started on it.

Worcestershire sauce on a nice steak works great.

 

[Pandabean]

Thanks all.

I have been in contact with Dennis and he has suggested that it may be a problem with the sheath and that they had some sheaths that weren't properly neutralised. He is sending me out another one. He has also offered to clean the rust stains up as I do not have the equipment here to do it with.

I also want to say to anyone who is thinking of getting a brisa enzo knife that they are great knives and with the amount of use I have had out of it (so far) I would highly recommed them.