I have just purchased an Enzo Trapper D2 steel scandi grind with secondary bevel. I have searched the forums and have had no luck finding any information on removing the secondary bevel. Just wondering if anyone had any tips or could point me in the right direction.
Removing secondary bevel
- Thread starter JebediahHaywood
- Start date
Do not remove the secondary bevel !, Dennis makes these knives this way for a reason! These style of finnish knives all have a secondary bevel as it vastly increases their durability, taking the secondary bevel off will void your warranty, and make the edge prone to rolling ( or with D2 more likely to chip), Denis does a zero/scandi grind version for those that prefer that grind but i have found the Finnish (sabre grind) vastly superior in edge keeping compared to the scandi!
the secondary bevel is there for a reason- it improves the strength of the edge, it also means that less material has to be taken off during shrapening. My advice to you would be to leave it on, use it for a while and if you really hate it then change the bevel, but with such a small bevel i wouldn't think it makes a noticeable difference except for when it comes to sharpening
good luck!
Nathan
good luck!
Nathan
Taking it off is a bit of a chore on a stone to keep everything flat. You may just want to convex the secondary to make that transition more smooth. This keeps the durability of the secondary but makes wood work a bit easier. For pure woodwork though getting rid of the secondary is a good way to go.
robin wood
Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
If you want a zero grind buy a knife that comes with one. This thread may help understand the difference between zero grind and secondary and the pros and cons of each.
http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29512&highlight=mora+sharp
http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29512&highlight=mora+sharp
I am completly convinced that a small secondary bevel increases the durability of the edge. It was because of this reason that i purchased the knife with the secondary bevel. I have read your thread Robin on the clipper and its micro-bevel. It appears to me that my secondary is more than micro. I also own a Clipper and an Erik Frosts #120 sloyd knife. It seems to me that the more pronounced secondary bevel on my Enzo is affecting the way that it works with wood.
Have to agree with the others about leaving the bevel on. An alternative, if you want to increase the bite in wood, would be to shallow convex the edge. The D2 on the Enzo's is pretty freakin' hard to grind down at 61hrc.
Try a really course stone with a draw stroke and barely raise (maybe 1-2 degrees?) the spine of the knife each time until you start to see your secondary bevel graduate into the flat grind. After you get it looking like it's blended pretty well, do the mousepad/BritRed sharpening technique to even it out to a smoothness you're happy with.
I seriously wouldn't spend ''too" much time trying to make the grindline too high as it will cause micro-chipping (guaranteed) whenever you work with hardwood, knots, or bone! Maybe grind the secondary whet edge to about 2-2.5 times the heigth from the original at most.
As long as you keep it to a minimum, you'll be able to put the original bevel back on if you decide you're not happy with the result.
Try a really course stone with a draw stroke and barely raise (maybe 1-2 degrees?) the spine of the knife each time until you start to see your secondary bevel graduate into the flat grind. After you get it looking like it's blended pretty well, do the mousepad/BritRed sharpening technique to even it out to a smoothness you're happy with.
I seriously wouldn't spend ''too" much time trying to make the grindline too high as it will cause micro-chipping (guaranteed) whenever you work with hardwood, knots, or bone! Maybe grind the secondary whet edge to about 2-2.5 times the heigth from the original at most.
As long as you keep it to a minimum, you'll be able to put the original bevel back on if you decide you're not happy with the result.
Would stropping it to make the secondary bevel more rounded like a convex grind help with the way it performs..?
Just a thought..
Oops, just seen that has already been suggested...sorry.
if you really don't like the secondary bevel then spend the time that it will take to remove it on the shgarpening stones. You will then find out how much better it worked before 
You could then tune it to the amount of secondary bevel that you like on that knife.
good luck I hope you enjoy grinding and sharpening
You could then tune it to the amount of secondary bevel that you like on that knife.
good luck I hope you enjoy grinding and sharpening
I would like to thank everyone for their input. After many hours at the stones, I have decided to keep the secondary. Blade is now shaving sharp and my left arm is almost bald. Feels good to have a sharp knife. Thanks again to everyone. Cant wait to get out!!
