Re-profiling and sharpening an edge.

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Hatchet

Tenderfoot
Aug 31, 2012
58
0
New Zealand
Hello everyone,

what's a good, inexpensive way to reprofile and sharpen an edge, without buying a whole set of stones?
I'll be working with 1075 carbon steel.

Thanks in advance,

Hatchet.
 

Silverback 1

Native
Jun 27, 2009
1,216
0
64
WEST YORKSHIRE
I would use a mouse mat and varying grades of wet and dry, with a bit of elbow grease and patience you will end up with a hair popping convex edge that will be a doddle to maintain on a loaded strop.Is the 1075 steel coated? If it is that would be a bonus because you will be able to see the edge forming as the coating wears off. If you look on You -Tube there are lots of tutorials on just how to do this, look out for a guy called Virtuovice that is an expert in this field and very entertaining to watch, i will post a link if you cannot find his channel or the relevant vids as i think he has nearly 400 on You-Tube.
 

grey-array

Full Member
Feb 14, 2012
1,067
4
The Netherlands
Not a great fan of the Mouse mat configuration myself as it is harder to keep your edge consequent, and the same through the entire process leaving you with a more wobbly edge, plus it always seems to round of the cutting edge, when springing up behind the blade making something that resembles a micro-bevel, but then again there are allot of sharpening methods, and if it works for you that is what we are looking for, I just find that my knives are sharper if I strop them with a Thin piece of leather (prox, 1.5mm) glued to a solid piece of MDF ( wood will move and hydrate etc) with a bit of Ian Longstrider's stropping compound( he is also on this forum, under the name Longstrider)

And to start and regrind I usually start of with some 120, machine grade sandingpaper, as it wont wear down as fast as regular sandpaper, plus it wont clog up, then if I get my desired shape, I go up in the grids from 120, to 320, to 600, to 1200,(water-stones from here) to 2000, to 5000, and then a final strop as descibed above, and when you maintain and use your knives correctly, they usually wont need anything more then a strop every now and then.

But then again there are many ways of doing it, one pointer though, dont be tempted to take your expensive tools to the grinder or belt sander, it will over heat your metal,which will mess up your heat treatment, and heat treatment is the most important piece in making a good knife.

Hope that helps, and no puns intended or offense implied, just trying to contribute
Yours sincerely Ruud
 

The Big Lebowski

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Aug 11, 2010
2,320
6
Sunny Wales!
File, cheapo diamond hone (you should get one in any DIY/Tool shop) then onto wooden block with 800/100/1500/2000 w&d will put a shaving sharp edge on anything.

Strop if required.
 
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Hatchet

Tenderfoot
Aug 31, 2012
58
0
New Zealand
Thanks everyone for replying!

I'm actually going for a scandi grind, so no mousepads for me! Is wood hard enough, or does it have to be something like glass, or tile?

I think I'll try the sandpaper method, and see how it works.:)
 

The Big Lebowski

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Aug 11, 2010
2,320
6
Sunny Wales!
Woods fine. You can always laminate it with hard plastic (like floor tiles) or indeed glass/tile but I just used wood before buying decent hones.
Some people stick w&d directly on to a section of glass or tile. Obviously watch the edges if they are sharp.

You don't need a huge amount of pressure if you go through the grits properly. Good luck! :)
 

Hoodoo

Full Member
Nov 17, 2003
5,302
13
Michigan, USA
I use wooden blocks all the time for sharpening. Usually aspen or oak because I can easily buy them in the shape I want and cut them to length. I've used them for years with no problem in deformation. But if they do happen to get warped or whatever, they are easy to square by sanding them on a sheet of sandpaper taped to some glass.
 

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