I promised The Greenman to re-post this to help him out.....
Tidying up an axe
Well I decided to re-dress an axe today (found a cheap one) and I thought it might be useful to publish a step-by-step guide given theres been a few threads on axes that need some work
Heres an old hatchet thats a good candidate for some TLC
Whats wrong with it? Well the blade is covered in rust and the blade edge is nicked and doesnt cut evenly.
Worse though is the fact that there is some severe helve damage.
A dent and crack this bad could cause the helve to snap in use and the head to fly off. Not the safest thing.
So, first job is to get all that paint and rust off and see what we have. Now on a quality old head, I'd hand rub back. This though is a cheap user" of a hatchet, so we'll give it a quick clean with an electric sander. I like to do this with the old helve in or to the bare head. Any slips could damage the new helve.
This is what we end up with..a fair 11/4 lb hatchet head.
Now that I can see what we have, I need to tidy the blade. (red's edit to say - there are detailed instructions on this in the "How to sharpen an axe" thread)
Okay, tricky time. We need to get that old helve out. Not normally a problem, but these days they often fill the eye with some sort of acrylic gunk. The problem with this is that you can see whats underneath it.
So, is the head loose? Yes haha, I'll just tap it out. Nope, not a chance. Its not that loose. So, saw the helve off flush to the head and turn over. Try to tap out from the helve side. You know what the inside of an eye is shaped like right? Its like a funnel with the spout end where the helve comes out (wider at the top than the bottom). So trying to pull a helve out rarely works. The helve is wider below the head so the head can't drop down the helve. Its straight when you put the new helve in, but then you drive wedges in to widen the top of the helve so it fills the funnel shape. So the head can't fly off the top because of the funnel shape or slip down because of the widening helve. However cut off the helve and you can often drive the stump out the wide mouth of the head (the top).
Not in this case though. So, goggles and gloves and I drill through the helve half a dozen times going VERY carefully in case there is a metal wedge. There isn't and the helve drops out.
Fantastic. Now we are getting somewhere. Right, next job. Fit the helve. I'm using a store bought hickory helve and its too big to go through the eye at the bottom of the head. This is a good thing. Using wood rasps and sand paper I SLOWLY thin the helve until it will just pass through the narrow eye. I measured the depth of the head before I started and added ½" as I want the helve to project a little. A quick rub of sandpaper (easier now than later) and the helve is ready for the next stage. I'm going to need a wooden wedge next. Out to the woodpile and find a nice bit or dry oak (your wedge must be seasoned or it will split). Now I have measured the length of the eye and reckon for a little head like this a wedge about ¾" wide will do. I make it much longer than I need, you'll see why later. I measure the width of the eye and select and iron wedge the right size (No 2 in this case). Okay, I have all my parts assembled.
Next stage is to saw a slot for the wedge. Clamp the helve vertically and using a tenon saw, cut a slot into the helve for 2/3 of the depth of the head. It should look something like this.
You'll notice the line is just off straight. I find this helps stop splitting later.
Next, fit the head snugly and, using a block of wood flat to the top of the wooden wedge, drive the wedge gently but firmly in place. I like to put some wood glue on the wooden wedge first and let it dry before proceeding. Others don't - you decide!
Using your saw, cut the wedge off parallel to the helve. Then take your soft iron wedge and tap it in at 45 degrees to the wooden wedge in the centre of the helve. Make sure your head doesn't move whilst wedging.
Well, we are nearly there now. A final sand of the handle, then an oil soak. Lay a piece of cling film twice the length of the axe down. Cover in a double layer of kitchen towel. Soak the towel in linseed oil (or whatever you use). Put the axe on top, wrap the towel around the helve and cling film round the lot. Leave for 24 hours or better yet longer. The oil will penetrate the wood, swelling the grain for a tight fit and protecting from drying out.
Remove all the cloth, wipe down well and sharpen and that's it, a nice little camp hatchet.
Given that we have left a quarter of an inch of the helve proud" from the head, next time we need to re-helve it, all that's needed is to hook the metal wedge out with a flat head screwdriver, saw off and tap out the loose helve . no resin. The nice part of this job is that a helve costs just over a quid and a soft iron wedge a few pence. A rough hatchet can be picked up for 50p in a car boot sale. Buy 2 or 3 helves and a box of mixed wedges and you'll be out £5. You also can have a few tries at re-hanging and I'm fairly sure by the third go you'll get the knack of it. If you get it sooner, you have some spare helves!
Hope thats useful
Red
Tidying up an axe
Well I decided to re-dress an axe today (found a cheap one) and I thought it might be useful to publish a step-by-step guide given theres been a few threads on axes that need some work
Heres an old hatchet thats a good candidate for some TLC
Whats wrong with it? Well the blade is covered in rust and the blade edge is nicked and doesnt cut evenly.
Worse though is the fact that there is some severe helve damage.
A dent and crack this bad could cause the helve to snap in use and the head to fly off. Not the safest thing.
So, first job is to get all that paint and rust off and see what we have. Now on a quality old head, I'd hand rub back. This though is a cheap user" of a hatchet, so we'll give it a quick clean with an electric sander. I like to do this with the old helve in or to the bare head. Any slips could damage the new helve.
This is what we end up with..a fair 11/4 lb hatchet head.
Now that I can see what we have, I need to tidy the blade. (red's edit to say - there are detailed instructions on this in the "How to sharpen an axe" thread)
Okay, tricky time. We need to get that old helve out. Not normally a problem, but these days they often fill the eye with some sort of acrylic gunk. The problem with this is that you can see whats underneath it.
So, is the head loose? Yes haha, I'll just tap it out. Nope, not a chance. Its not that loose. So, saw the helve off flush to the head and turn over. Try to tap out from the helve side. You know what the inside of an eye is shaped like right? Its like a funnel with the spout end where the helve comes out (wider at the top than the bottom). So trying to pull a helve out rarely works. The helve is wider below the head so the head can't drop down the helve. Its straight when you put the new helve in, but then you drive wedges in to widen the top of the helve so it fills the funnel shape. So the head can't fly off the top because of the funnel shape or slip down because of the widening helve. However cut off the helve and you can often drive the stump out the wide mouth of the head (the top).
Not in this case though. So, goggles and gloves and I drill through the helve half a dozen times going VERY carefully in case there is a metal wedge. There isn't and the helve drops out.
Fantastic. Now we are getting somewhere. Right, next job. Fit the helve. I'm using a store bought hickory helve and its too big to go through the eye at the bottom of the head. This is a good thing. Using wood rasps and sand paper I SLOWLY thin the helve until it will just pass through the narrow eye. I measured the depth of the head before I started and added ½" as I want the helve to project a little. A quick rub of sandpaper (easier now than later) and the helve is ready for the next stage. I'm going to need a wooden wedge next. Out to the woodpile and find a nice bit or dry oak (your wedge must be seasoned or it will split). Now I have measured the length of the eye and reckon for a little head like this a wedge about ¾" wide will do. I make it much longer than I need, you'll see why later. I measure the width of the eye and select and iron wedge the right size (No 2 in this case). Okay, I have all my parts assembled.
Next stage is to saw a slot for the wedge. Clamp the helve vertically and using a tenon saw, cut a slot into the helve for 2/3 of the depth of the head. It should look something like this.
You'll notice the line is just off straight. I find this helps stop splitting later.
Next, fit the head snugly and, using a block of wood flat to the top of the wooden wedge, drive the wedge gently but firmly in place. I like to put some wood glue on the wooden wedge first and let it dry before proceeding. Others don't - you decide!
Using your saw, cut the wedge off parallel to the helve. Then take your soft iron wedge and tap it in at 45 degrees to the wooden wedge in the centre of the helve. Make sure your head doesn't move whilst wedging.
Well, we are nearly there now. A final sand of the handle, then an oil soak. Lay a piece of cling film twice the length of the axe down. Cover in a double layer of kitchen towel. Soak the towel in linseed oil (or whatever you use). Put the axe on top, wrap the towel around the helve and cling film round the lot. Leave for 24 hours or better yet longer. The oil will penetrate the wood, swelling the grain for a tight fit and protecting from drying out.
Remove all the cloth, wipe down well and sharpen and that's it, a nice little camp hatchet.
Given that we have left a quarter of an inch of the helve proud" from the head, next time we need to re-helve it, all that's needed is to hook the metal wedge out with a flat head screwdriver, saw off and tap out the loose helve . no resin. The nice part of this job is that a helve costs just over a quid and a soft iron wedge a few pence. A rough hatchet can be picked up for 50p in a car boot sale. Buy 2 or 3 helves and a box of mixed wedges and you'll be out £5. You also can have a few tries at re-hanging and I'm fairly sure by the third go you'll get the knack of it. If you get it sooner, you have some spare helves!
Hope thats useful
Red
After your excellent threads on axes and the evolution of your PFK and Beater and Biter, you're an inspiration! 
. I honestly think if you have as best quality straight clean ash as you can procure (or hickory or birch whatever you use for the handle) it will usually go on straight, even with the pound and shave method. I keep an eye on the alignment now as I go, when I did my first re handle jobs about 1993 I was blissfully ignorant of these issues, but you learn something new every day 
