I've found that most edge crumpling is due to a burr. Often times the burr is not even noticeable. The thinner the blade angle, the further you can draw that burr out. Certain steels will hold on to that burr longer than others. A2, for instance, is very tough steel and on a thin bevel, you can draw it out on some pretty fine grit before you ever get rid of it.
For flat bevels, sharping with the edge trailing, I will take them up to 2000 grit sandpaper. At 1500 and 2000, I will use mousepad backed sandpaper. This will give me just enough bending to leaverage the the burr off. After that, I strop on leather that is also backed with a mousepad. I've found that with this method I can go for months sometimes with only stropping in between.
I have razor-blade thin carving knives that will hold their edge for an amzingly long time during carving of seasoned hardwood. Thin bevels don't concern me. But that microburrs that you can't usually feel does. The thinner the grind, the longer the burr.
Another way to get rid of it is to use an ultrafine stone, raise the angle a bit, and that will leaverage off the burr. I prefer a micro convex edge at the bevel though.
For flat bevels, sharping with the edge trailing, I will take them up to 2000 grit sandpaper. At 1500 and 2000, I will use mousepad backed sandpaper. This will give me just enough bending to leaverage the the burr off. After that, I strop on leather that is also backed with a mousepad. I've found that with this method I can go for months sometimes with only stropping in between.
I have razor-blade thin carving knives that will hold their edge for an amzingly long time during carving of seasoned hardwood. Thin bevels don't concern me. But that microburrs that you can't usually feel does. The thinner the grind, the longer the burr.
Another way to get rid of it is to use an ultrafine stone, raise the angle a bit, and that will leaverage off the burr. I prefer a micro convex edge at the bevel though.
