Problems with My First Kuksa!

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Tubbyfraser

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Feb 4, 2008
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Hi all,

Having succesfully managed to carve my first spoon, I thought I'd have a go at a Kuksa. Now I find I've rushed into this rather than have a good read on here especially at Robin Wood's posts. Anyway, the Kuksa is all but carved but there are three knots on the sides and bottom of the cup. Whilst testing the Kuksa for capacity (I used boiling water) I noticed that water leaked through these knots and that they had become soft and mushy. I've now drilled them out with the point of my Frosts Sloyd but me bonny wooden cup now resembles a piece of swiss cheese with the ruddy holes!

What, if anything, can I use to fill the holes remembering that it will need to be ok for use with food and drink? I had thought of getting a dark wood filler, mixing in a little superglue and plugging the holes with the resultant mixture. That way it wood still have the natural appearance of the original knots but be solid and leak proof.

Additionally, there are 2 cracks showing - one at the back and t'other at the front. I've read on here that it is ok to fill these with sawdust and superglue mixture but is it ok to use it on the inside of the bowl?

The kuksa is at present sitting in a deep bowl of very salty water (together with my spoon) having been put there last night and boiling water poured over the cup and salt.

Any and all advice very gratefully appreciated.

Graeme the Woodworking Novice
 
If the holes are small I would make wood plugs for them, and glue them in with superglue. If the holes are large say over 15mm, then you have a nice ornament.
I think I would do this when the Kuksa has dried out, because the wood can move a fair bit in the seasoning process.
If you put a seasoned wooden plug into an unseasoned Kuksa, as the wall dries out and shrinks around the plug, it could shrink so much that the wall splits. Also taper the hole and plug slightly.

I am facing the same problem with a large knot on the inside and it is only a mm or so on the outside. I am thinking of using either pine resin or pitch (made myself) to fill it. I will use heat to melt the resin into the knot so it penetrates deep inside.
 
Sean,

Plugs! Now there's and idea. The holes are fairly small - all less than 10mm and I think I can just about manage that.

Thanks very much indeed.

Graeme
 
Instead of superglue, why not try gluing them in place with pine resin? Toddy, I'm sure mentioned this to someone with a cracked Kuska.. it may work... :) I'm sure you'd prefer trying with something more natural than superglue too.
 
Certainly I would, damn sticky too, the old pine resin. There's a wood not far from me on Sir John Clerk's Estate - many of the pines there have had their lower branches limbed and they're just covered in milky, white resin! I feel a spot of foraging coming on.

Just good is pine resin as a glue? Could it be used to glue knife scales on a blank, together with acorn bolts or the like?

Brilliant again, thanks!

Graeme
 
This is the link to the post Toddy made here it may or may not be of help. I think the purer the better, so when it sets it's got no contaminates to mess with it, and probably set clearer. No idea how strong it is though, perhaps if you do a wee test first to make sure.?
 

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